yeah, like i said i'll definitely give this set up some thought cuz it looks simpler and not as expensive, i am concerned about the heat going into the engine simply because this will be my first turbo set up when i get around to doing it, so i know i'll have some flaws, i'm trying to cut them all down tho. do you ever get gas buildup inside the turbo from this? for some reason i can imagine gas getting stuck in there after you turn the car off..idk.

 

Honestly i don't know yet as I have only driven it with a massive leak. currently the car is flooded.. It was running really rich but it also had a massive vacuum leak. So it would run cause of the extra air being sucked up through the leak. Well today i fixed the leak then the motor overloaded with gas and died. So tomorrow Im unflooding it and tuning the carb to the right mixture.

A draw through is MUCH simpler just not as much potential power. But you don't need a lot to make these light cars move!

 

ya charleston is where I am, i havnt moved up north just yet.

 

hmmm, i'm interested in seeing your results after you tune the carb, also, is there a way to put an i/c with this set up, or is there such i/c that gas can travel through?, as you can see i'm really iffy about the lack of i/c lol. ..... like i said i would love to hear about your results it's very interesting, plus this set up i think it's a lot cleaner than the blowthrough, if only there was a way to make sure the air was "normal" temperature as it goes into the engine. i'm just scared to have extremely hot air running through and breaking seals and stuff.

 

You technically could run an intercooler but that means fuel would have to pass through it. All it takes is some fuel to pool inside it then BAM explosion. Its like having a bomb in your engine haha. Just run a cold air intake to the front of your car with insulated pipe so the heat in the engine bay won't heat the cold air coming in from the front. Im tuning her tonight so well see how she does

 

What kind of port do you have in the engine?

 

Dude!! I've seen your car before!!

Wasn't it on ebay or something a while back?

I have pics of it on my computer because I thought it looked really nice.

 

for not much more you could run a blow through set up ....you just have to turbo prep the carb and run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator + a turbo hat ,the benifits of a blow through is the ability to run a i/c .

the intake charge heats up mainly from the turbo compressing it ......thats where a inter cooler comes in to play cooling the air back down .
with the draw through set up the charged air is hot and hot air is less dense then cold air so you get less power ....to my knowledge hot air will not harm your engine in any way.

 

I want this so bad, thats why i'm bidding.

 

Looks like you got yourself a fun toy there!.

but....

Theres alot of misinformation here.... don't drive it like that. Wait for help from fcdrifter13. You really need someone that knows what they are doing to get it running properly. You're just gonna blow it up right away if you keep trying to run it as is.

First off U can't set the timing properly like your doing it. You need to remove the distrib and weld the tiny fly weights inside. As you rev your motor centrifugal force pulls these spring loaded weights out which advances your timing. And it advances it A LOT! So you and your dad can adjust the base timing all day long and it’s not going to be correct. This is something you have to do when you convert over to boost. There is no way around it…. period.

That being said. Take your carb off and clean up the bases really well. I’d guess the base of your carb or the intake is warped. Get a straight edge of some sort. (I use a steel ruler) and place it on the base of the carb and intake. It should be perfectly flat. If it’s not to bad, you can try to use 2 carb. gasket’s when reinstalling. Worst case you’ll have to get 1 or both resurfaced at a machine shop.

As far as IC’s It’s not worth it with your setup IMO. But I would suggest a simple methanol injection kit and a WB02 at minimum. This way instead of playing with carb jets you can adjust the amount of alcohol being sprayed. It will also cool down your air charge and fight off detonation. It’s a win-win setup. You’ll have to have the WB02 to tune the car properly. There is no way around this. I know 250 bucks seems expensive for a gauge. But how much is it gonna cost U when you blow up your engine first time out? There is no way to accurately know if you have enough fuel without one. And if you guess wrong it only takes once….

Good luck. I hope U put in the little bit of extra time and money so it lasts.

Cool car!

 

ok on the vacuum line do you see where it conect to the distributor ....just hook both of those vacuum thingamagigs together with the distributor locked your basically keeping dirt and dust from entering them in case you want to revert back to a stock setup later

Very nice car good luck with it!!

 

I'm gonna have to disagree with that....Why remove the vac advance? It will just hurt MPG and give you a poor idle.

Just install 3 or so 1-way aquarium check valve bleeders inline with vac advance on the distrib. This will allow vacc and not allow boost into the advance diaphragm. So during idle and cruise conditions you will have your timing advance. As you go into boost all the press/vac will be lost out the check valves,bringing you back to your base timing.

Similar to this pic. It's cheap (under $10) and works very well....

 

you're right, i wasn't thinking about it when i posted that.

 

tthis is exactly how you want to run your zizzy.. dont hook ANY vac lines from the dizzy to the intake.. simply plug the lines and lock the dizzy.. your done

 

I got some questions here since i just won this beautiful 7 off ebay and i plan on picking it up this or next weekend. Since the intake is still leaking coolant wouldn't that mean his whole problem could be cominf from that leak? I had the smallest leak on my NA and it acted funny also. And how again do you go about "locking" or "welding" the dist?
And as for th heating problem would a simple turbo heat shield or blanket be enough to keep it from detonating? And whats a WB02? Thanks guys!

 

Another question...... From what i understand if i wanted to make this a push thru setup couldn't i use a demon carb because they won't leak boost due to their float bowls not being connected to where the boost is applied? Something like that, has anyone heard this?

 

WRONG!

Why is everyone so damn stubborn!

Just because Joe Shmoe locked his distrib. at 10* and disabled his vac advance and the car starts and drives does that make it the ideal setup?

NO!

There is no reason to disable the vac advance. Do as I said above. You will net better MPG and your car will run cleaner.

Also running 10* of timing all the time will result in crappy performance and drive ability.

Read through this post.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/12a-cartech-drawthrough-help-814461/page2/

And NO you can't just slap a demon carb on there and run it. This is a very poor sight for information on blow through carb setups. Most of the people giving you information are just plain wrong.

Check out ***theturboforums.com*** You need to do several things to boost prep. the carb. And IMO a Holley DP is the easiest carb to modify for boost.

Good luck...

 

What about the holley 465 I got from racing beat, can i turbo prep that? And would rotary shack do that for me?

 

Does anyone have a picture of a distributor with the tiny fly weights welded? And do you have to do this when you put a supercharger on a rotary too?

 

It would have to be converted to mechanical secondary's. And yes rotary shack could do it for you. They will also mod your nikki for blow thru boost for $300.

 

uhhhh. I heard of birdge port 12a's running holley 650's so i would go with a bigger carb?


And there are many places that can turbo prep carbs. Search.

 

Umm... no.. That is 100% not the problem. And totally false information.

 

Not many places turbo prep carbs at ALL. I know of one, maybe two in the whole US. Because really, how many people that run a turbo run carbs let alone a drawthru, usually it's a fuel injected blow thru setup. So turbo prepping a carb isn't really in that much of a demand. Thats why it's so hard to find some (especially close the Pa region) to do this.

 

Well now that I've been working on this beast I think the most efficient way to bypass the IC problem is to put a water/alcohol injection system on it. That'll cool it plenty and get a little more HP outta it instead of losing HP by going through an intercooler.

 

I was a vw air cooled car nut for a long time.i had a 2234 cc that was a draw through that ran with 28 pounds of boost.the engine made 340 horse power.it ran 6.90 in the 1/8 mile with a automatic transmission.the draw through carb is a very simple thing to do after a lot of r&d.what i had done in a nut shell is tapper your emolsion tubes.the narrow part toward the main jet.(this lets more fuel in the emolsion tube well)drill the holes bigger in the bottom of the float bowl area.(to allow more fuel flow into the main jets from the under the fuel well)use at least a 250 fuel inlet needle and seat.(the 300 needle and seat is hard to control fuel pressure)use a fuel pressure regulator that has a boost port to let fuel pressure rise to the pump pressure when under boost.(i used the holley very low pressure regulator that i drilled a boost port in the adjusting end cap).run manifold pressure to the regulator end cap.put a check valve before the adjusting end cap so negative manifold pressure will not pull the regulator closed.i had this draw through set up on a 12a in my vw and this thing ran harder then my vw engine .this was a short lived project because of my other girl friend in the picture.any questions e-mail me i will help.it is very hard to get any tech info out of this site.sorry spell check aint working