12a turbo questions
05-21-13, 11:59 PM
#26
I have that one and it's a nice part. The only thing I don't like about it is that the outlets are on the driver's side so you have to route your feed line around it. Not a big deal though.
Sorry to hear your motor took a dump. Must've been a rebuild issue because factory 12a's are tough little buggers. Good luck getting it going again.
Sorry to hear your motor took a dump. Must've been a rebuild issue because factory 12a's are tough little buggers. Good luck getting it going again.
yeah im thinking rebuild issues as well, because in theory that motor only has about 42k on it... when i bought it the guy said it had 40k on the rebuild... just sucks lol, but!! im converted to rotaries now, so i sold the 350 i had built for my s10 for some cash towards the build on the 12a
at least ill know this time that everything gets done the correct way. oh! i saw another black fb today in maryville, u got any idea who?
05-23-13, 05:21 PM
#27
Hmm... basically just a block that adds an outlet before the filter? I don't see any problem with that as long as it doesn't leak or block flow to the filter. Pretty much the same as adding a T fitting at the pressure sender.
Selling the 350 to pay for a rebuild, that's a rotorhead right there!
It's probably the same FB I see on Pellissippi in the mornings. Haven't met the driver. I also saw a different black one sitting at West Town Mall in Knoxville last weekend. They're out there but remain anonymous.
Selling the 350 to pay for a rebuild, that's a rotorhead right there!
It's probably the same FB I see on Pellissippi in the mornings. Haven't met the driver. I also saw a different black one sitting at West Town Mall in Knoxville last weekend. They're out there but remain anonymous.
05-27-13, 01:39 AM
#28
Hmm... basically just a block that adds an outlet before the filter? I don't see any problem with that as long as it doesn't leak or block flow to the filter. Pretty much the same as adding a T fitting at the pressure sender.
Selling the 350 to pay for a rebuild, that's a rotorhead right there!
It's probably the same FB I see on Pellissippi in the mornings. Haven't met the driver. I also saw a different black one sitting at West Town Mall in Knoxville last weekend. They're out there but remain anonymous.
Selling the 350 to pay for a rebuild, that's a rotorhead right there!
It's probably the same FB I see on Pellissippi in the mornings. Haven't met the driver. I also saw a different black one sitting at West Town Mall in Knoxville last weekend. They're out there but remain anonymous.
the one i saw looked like it was flat black on the drivers side, of course i waived and he waived back , but im sure i looked dumb hangin out the window of a friends civic to wave at him lol
05-28-13, 03:10 AM
#30
good point, lol... well keep an eye out for a build thread somewhere in the near future... what size jets do people normally start with when boost prepping a nikki? im about to build one of my spares as a boost carb. just as soon as i figure out why the 2 that i have look different. lol
05-28-13, 11:42 PM
#31
good point, lol... well keep an eye out for a build thread somewhere in the near future... what size jets do people normally start with when boost prepping a nikki? im about to build one of my spares as a boost carb. just as soon as i figure out why the 2 that i have look different. lol
That's probably rich enough on the primary end but the secondaries are going to need quite a bump. Secondary plates opening = building boost. I'm going to modify my linkage so the secondaries open sooner, that way the engine will see that burst of fuel a little bit before it sees more pressure. Since I have a 1.75mm bit, I suppose I'll start there. I ported the wastegate on the S5 turbo I'll be using so initially I'll be running on as little boost as I can manage for safety. If it's too rich, I'll raise boost until I hit the desired AFR, then jet higher, raise boost again, and repeat until I reach the desired boost level in the butter zone. Granted it's summer, so I'll be tuning extra rich so I don't spit out seals if we get a cold front. I'll turn down boost for the fall events.
06-02-13, 03:29 PM
#32
Been wondering this myself. Stock main fuel for my '85 is 92 primary and 160 secondary. Right now my car is running 105 primary fuel and the rest has been left stock. With race exhaust and a hood scoop for cold air, I see AFR's in the low to mid 12's at WOT, depending on weather. Idle and cruise is in the high 11's.
That's probably rich enough on the primary end but the secondaries are going to need quite a bump. Secondary plates opening = building boost. I'm going to modify my linkage so the secondaries open sooner, that way the engine will see that burst of fuel a little bit before it sees more pressure. Since I have a 1.75mm bit, I suppose I'll start there. I ported the wastegate on the S5 turbo I'll be using so initially I'll be running on as little boost as I can manage for safety. If it's too rich, I'll raise boost until I hit the desired AFR, then jet higher, raise boost again, and repeat until I reach the desired boost level in the butter zone. Granted it's summer, so I'll be tuning extra rich so I don't spit out seals if we get a cold front. I'll turn down boost for the fall events.
That's probably rich enough on the primary end but the secondaries are going to need quite a bump. Secondary plates opening = building boost. I'm going to modify my linkage so the secondaries open sooner, that way the engine will see that burst of fuel a little bit before it sees more pressure. Since I have a 1.75mm bit, I suppose I'll start there. I ported the wastegate on the S5 turbo I'll be using so initially I'll be running on as little boost as I can manage for safety. If it's too rich, I'll raise boost until I hit the desired AFR, then jet higher, raise boost again, and repeat until I reach the desired boost level in the butter zone. Granted it's summer, so I'll be tuning extra rich so I don't spit out seals if we get a cold front. I'll turn down boost for the fall events.
how rich of a ratio should we be running? i know a piston engine is "Supposed to be" 14.7 but as i understand, the rotary needs to run slightly richer?
06-02-13, 03:38 PM
#33
The butter zone can vary slightly by car. Right now (still N/A) mine pulls hardest around 13:1. For a turbo application, I would shoot for low to mid 11's for safety.
I'll have a build thread when I get it running. Right now I'm waiting on a weaker fuel pump and another fuel pressure gauge. The gauge Autoplicity sent me didn't have the needle attached
I'll have a build thread when I get it running. Right now I'm waiting on a weaker fuel pump and another fuel pressure gauge. The gauge Autoplicity sent me didn't have the needle attached
06-02-13, 03:48 PM
#34
The butter zone can vary slightly by car. Right now (still N/A) mine pulls hardest around 13:1. For a turbo application, I would shoot for low to mid 11's for safety.
I'll have a build thread when I get it running. Right now I'm waiting on a weaker fuel pump and another fuel pressure gauge. The gauge Autoplicity sent me didn't have the needle attached
I'll have a build thread when I get it running. Right now I'm waiting on a weaker fuel pump and another fuel pressure gauge. The gauge Autoplicity sent me didn't have the needle attached
and that makes sense, im trying to figure out exactly how i want to port mine ATM. im probably going to start to take it out and apart on wednesday, if we dont get another monsoon like today lol
06-03-13, 05:11 PM
#35
I'm taking a much needed break from car stuff right now, but I'll get back to work on it soon.
And yeah, I'm just lucky it didn't float away over the weekend with all that rain. If you like driving your car around, stick with a streetport and some boost. If you only wanna race it, full bridge.
And yeah, I'm just lucky it didn't float away over the weekend with all that rain. If you like driving your car around, stick with a streetport and some boost. If you only wanna race it, full bridge.
06-04-13, 10:15 PM
#37
Got the carb out and apart tonight. It's a little dirty from all the offroad action but still in great shape. I'm pulling all the vacuum sources off of it and sealing them up with quicksteel. Fortunately there's not a whole lot left to do since I removed and sealed up most of the extra stuff when I built the carb a couple years ago.
06-05-13, 11:52 AM
#38
Got the carb out and apart tonight. It's a little dirty from all the offroad action but still in great shape. I'm pulling all the vacuum sources off of it and sealing them up with quicksteel. Fortunately there's not a whole lot left to do since I removed and sealed up most of the extra stuff when I built the carb a couple years ago.
do i really need any vacuum lines going anywhere except the brake booster if im going to boost it? because ill be locking the dizzy, so i wont need those. the rats nest is already gone. dont need anything there..
06-05-13, 04:16 PM
#39
You need the big port for the vent solenoid. I assume that will still work. I'm gonna leave a port for my distributor so I can retain the vacuum advance. Haven't worked that out yet.
You'll also need a port in your carb hat or charge pipe for a boost gauge and the fuel pressure regulator.
You'll also need a port in your carb hat or charge pipe for a boost gauge and the fuel pressure regulator.
06-05-13, 10:30 PM
#43
Not that you'll need them under boost, but yeah, things will work the same as N/A. The booster builds vacuum and holds it in reserve with the check valve. Ever notice how you can shut off the engine, pump the brakes and still have power assist for a bit?
06-12-13, 07:14 AM
#46
Yeah, shutup kid.
they have a check valve stock, if it still works or not is another question... I added a check valve to mine since the one inside my booster wasnt working. After boosting it took a couple seconds to have power brakes again, was a bit scary the first time hitting the brakes and the pedal was rock hard, then sunk down, then the brakes started working properly again after a couple seconds.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
