12a Turbo, need a little help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
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From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
it seemed to drive fine without boosting but it was lean yeah
when it was boosting it was kinda pissing and moaning it wasnt nice and it was super lean
when it was boosting it was kinda pissing and moaning it wasnt nice and it was super lean
Fuel pressure is gonna have to be like 3.5. If the floats are drastically over the half way mark you're gonna need to adjust the floats as well!
You are also gonna have boost creep like a mother with 3" exhaust. You need to correct your fuel issue though. set it at 3.5 take i for a run see if its better. if it is than work on getting those floats set right. Then fine tune it with diffrent jets and such! If yah want something that just bolts up call rob!
You are also gonna have boost creep like a mother with 3" exhaust. You need to correct your fuel issue though. set it at 3.5 take i for a run see if its better. if it is than work on getting those floats set right. Then fine tune it with diffrent jets and such! If yah want something that just bolts up call rob!
Last edited by yetterben; Sep 28, 2008 at 08:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
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From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
OK So she idles she moves but once into secondaries or on boost it is so damn lean the guage wont register even when cruising on the primaries she is real lean like in the 15's
fuel pressure is at 3.5 psi and rises when i give it throttle at idle
I only made about 4-5 pounds of boost and unless I really gently throttled into it it coughed and sputtered but both ways yeilded unrecordably lean conditions.
looks like I have to find some jets!
fuel pressure is at 3.5 psi and rises when i give it throttle at idle
I only made about 4-5 pounds of boost and unless I really gently throttled into it it coughed and sputtered but both ways yeilded unrecordably lean conditions.
looks like I have to find some jets!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
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From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
Alright so I got some videos of a couple test runs I made yesterday... I had to drive and tape so sorry about the shakyness
1st run
http://media.putfile.com/12a-12-brid...bo-first-drive
2nd run
http://media.putfile.com/12a-12-bridge-first-drive-2
1st run
http://media.putfile.com/12a-12-brid...bo-first-drive
2nd run
http://media.putfile.com/12a-12-bridge-first-drive-2
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
OK so i ask about the timing because I cannot get this car timed dead on 10 deg BTDC.
The way the car runs best is set like the first pic
It fires L1 way before the white line which is 10* and the dizzy is fully retarded
If i skip a tooth back then it ends up firing L1 where pic 2 shows the pin which is after the orange dot (TDC) and that is with the dizzy fully advanced
So i have opted to go with advanced as it runs like **** with the dizzy set back a tooth. so I am thinking I am about 15-18* advance any body know what I have to do to get this thing to beable to run at 10*?
I figured that where it is set because I cannot retard the dizzy enough to get to 10* I would just pull the dizzy and skip 1 tooth back then fully advance the dizzy and viola it would be closer to 10*BTDC but it seems that skipping 1 tooth back really sets the timing back.
The way the car runs best is set like the first pic
It fires L1 way before the white line which is 10* and the dizzy is fully retarded
If i skip a tooth back then it ends up firing L1 where pic 2 shows the pin which is after the orange dot (TDC) and that is with the dizzy fully advanced
So i have opted to go with advanced as it runs like **** with the dizzy set back a tooth. so I am thinking I am about 15-18* advance any body know what I have to do to get this thing to beable to run at 10*?
I figured that where it is set because I cannot retard the dizzy enough to get to 10* I would just pull the dizzy and skip 1 tooth back then fully advance the dizzy and viola it would be closer to 10*BTDC but it seems that skipping 1 tooth back really sets the timing back.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 871
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From: Fort St John B.C. Canada
because my car has a lightweight flywheel I marked my top dead center using the counter wieght and the two bolts in the top ispection plate... this is where it sits when I am at my marked TDC
use a racingbeat pulley and set it at 10 degrees advanced, not btdc..
also since your motor is a bridgeport, there is overlap. with overlap the motor dumps unburned fuel and air throwing off the wideband readings, in short this means bridgeport turbo motors are THE hardest to tune.
also since your motor is a bridgeport, there is overlap. with overlap the motor dumps unburned fuel and air throwing off the wideband readings, in short this means bridgeport turbo motors are THE hardest to tune.
Thats backwards,
Retarded timing is when the spark occurs after top dead center,
Advanced timing is when the spark occurs before top dead center.
To the original poster,
right side of the timing pin is retarded
left side of the timing pin is advanced.
I'm retarted. I did post that backwards. If you want a simple way to get it to ten advanced, just get the leading between the "0" mark on the pulley for the leading, and the "20" mark for the trailing.
i think im having the same problem trying to time my superchargered sa.
cant figure out the timing..and it seems to run better retarded rather than advanced?
oh well hopefully you can figure your problem out so you can help me
edit: i think i got the retarded and advance thing mixed up also...so if its to the left its advanced and right is retarded? sounds about right when i think about it.
cant figure out the timing..and it seems to run better retarded rather than advanced?
oh well hopefully you can figure your problem out so you can help me

edit: i think i got the retarded and advance thing mixed up also...so if its to the left its advanced and right is retarded? sounds about right when i think about it.
Last edited by FBsliderseven; Oct 17, 2008 at 04:25 AM.
I thought my last post cleared this up....
man you people are ******* noobs. right side if the pin is advanced. left is retard. the pullet turns ******* clockwise. looking at it from the front of the the car. it rotates clockwise. so advanced would make it fire before tdc retard is after the compression stroke. i just give up on this **** man. Never mind it was my setup he has never ******* mind i have had a supercharged one and timed it just fine. sam is right i am right the rest of you are wrong. If the pin is in the middle and the motor turns clockwise btdc is lets say 1 o clock if tdc is 12 o clock . hence 11 o **** would be AFTER TDC cause it all ready turned passed tdc makeing 11 after tdc and retarded is it fires at 11. The stock maerks are at zero and twenty behind zero. so if what everyone is saying is true that would make trailing fire before leading. cause if what you are saying is correct the marks would go 20 and then zero that would make trailing fire at 20 and leading at zero.
SO to recap if the motor turns clockwise btdc would be a mark before it passed the tdc mark would be on the right side of the pin and atdc would be after 0 and to the left of the pin because it passed 0.
SO to recap if the motor turns clockwise btdc would be a mark before it passed the tdc mark would be on the right side of the pin and atdc would be after 0 and to the left of the pin because it passed 0.
Last edited by yetterben; Oct 18, 2008 at 12:38 AM.
look here at racing beats **** if yah don't believe me btc is advance atc is retard. Stock is 20 btc at like 4,000 rpm's with a 20 spllit throughout the curve.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
When you turn the dizzy clockwise it advances and counter is retard make a mark anywhere on the pulley and watch which way it moves when you advance the dizzy problem solved. If you cant achieve proper timing on what i said then your motor is not at tdc when you stabbed the dizzy. I don't know what to tell you for an aftermarket flywheel. Thats why i wanted you before you pulled the dizzy to pay attention to your original pulley.
My bottom line is kev the motor turns clockwise marks to the right of the tdc pin are advanced and to the left of the tdc is retard. just remember the motor TURNS CLOCKWISE TOWARDS YOU IF YOUR STANDING AT THE DRIVERS FENDER!
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
When you turn the dizzy clockwise it advances and counter is retard make a mark anywhere on the pulley and watch which way it moves when you advance the dizzy problem solved. If you cant achieve proper timing on what i said then your motor is not at tdc when you stabbed the dizzy. I don't know what to tell you for an aftermarket flywheel. Thats why i wanted you before you pulled the dizzy to pay attention to your original pulley.
My bottom line is kev the motor turns clockwise marks to the right of the tdc pin are advanced and to the left of the tdc is retard. just remember the motor TURNS CLOCKWISE TOWARDS YOU IF YOUR STANDING AT THE DRIVERS FENDER!
Last edited by yetterben; Oct 18, 2008 at 12:31 AM.





