12A Revs 2 4k then dies??
#1
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12A Revs 2 4k then dies??
I just installed my Rb holley carb. With intake manifold now. I also removed my rats nest. with the connection links to the carb also removed. My thoughts are Im losing spark. because she just dies after hitting 4krpm. Anyone ever experiecnced this problem before? i installed a carter fuel pump and it has no problems keeping the pressure? I didnt install a fuel pressure regulator.
Could it have somthing to do with the the carb harnesses that I removed?
also I have No idea wtf to do so someone help me out.
Its cold And miserable outside. Good ol BC winter weather.!!!
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!
Could it have somthing to do with the the carb harnesses that I removed?
also I have No idea wtf to do so someone help me out.
Its cold And miserable outside. Good ol BC winter weather.!!!
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!
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Alittle more info needed here.
1'st Get a pressure reading, should be @ 6psi.
2nd Check Float Levels.
3rd Make sure your getting Spark after 4000RPM
These are just the first things to look at.
Also when you remove the rats nest, that leaves room for Vacumn Leaks.
Just some ideas to start with when you upgarde the Fuel System (ie Basics).
sgieldon
steve
1'st Get a pressure reading, should be @ 6psi.
2nd Check Float Levels.
3rd Make sure your getting Spark after 4000RPM
These are just the first things to look at.
Also when you remove the rats nest, that leaves room for Vacumn Leaks.
Just some ideas to start with when you upgarde the Fuel System (ie Basics).
sgieldon
steve
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Lol hey dude i forgot to put on the CC breather onto the carb lol. hey sorry for wasting your time but if that dont work Ill try to find other means. I also left the vacc advance nipp open on the dizzy.
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Because they don't need WHAT????
For the time being Don't mess with the Distributer until we can figure out the real issue yet.
It won't hurt anything to run it without the Pods Left open to the air for now.
Just don't plug them. If your running a Real RB Holley there is a Vacumn Source on the Primary Float Bowl that will have to be Plugged. Or you will have a major Vacumn Leak.
1-Fitting will be for the Oil Metering System and the other will be the Vacumn Source.
RB recomends just hooking up the Trailing. But I do not think alot of us run it that way!
Before you go into this area, lets fix the Fuel Issue 1st.
sgieldon
steve
For the time being Don't mess with the Distributer until we can figure out the real issue yet.
It won't hurt anything to run it without the Pods Left open to the air for now.
Just don't plug them. If your running a Real RB Holley there is a Vacumn Source on the Primary Float Bowl that will have to be Plugged. Or you will have a major Vacumn Leak.
1-Fitting will be for the Oil Metering System and the other will be the Vacumn Source.
RB recomends just hooking up the Trailing. But I do not think alot of us run it that way!
Before you go into this area, lets fix the Fuel Issue 1st.
sgieldon
steve
#13
kiwi from downunder..
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well since u installed a carter and dont have a fuel pressure regultor this can cause a proplem unless its a 6psi carter im sure it would be fine
most comin one people get is 8psi if u dont regulate it to spec u will have issues
check out the things steve has listed he knows abit about the hollys
most comin one people get is 8psi if u dont regulate it to spec u will have issues
check out the things steve has listed he knows abit about the hollys
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Originally Posted by sgieldon
Alittle more info needed here.
1'st Get a pressure reading, should be @ 6psi.
2nd Check Float Levels.
3rd Make sure your getting Spark after 4000RPM
These are just the first things to look at.
Also when you remove the rats nest, that leaves room for Vacumn Leaks.
Just some ideas to start with when you upgarde the Fuel System (ie Basics).
sgieldon
steve
1'st Get a pressure reading, should be @ 6psi.
2nd Check Float Levels.
3rd Make sure your getting Spark after 4000RPM
These are just the first things to look at.
Also when you remove the rats nest, that leaves room for Vacumn Leaks.
Just some ideas to start with when you upgarde the Fuel System (ie Basics).
sgieldon
steve
Yes getting spark after 4k. have a electric fuel pump. Floats are fine.'
#18
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which Carter pump do you have? what are the pressure and volume ratings?
as Trochoid has stated twice, now, get an FPR. when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? i also agree that it sounds like you have a major vacuum leak - as evidenced by your lack of idle. do yourself a favor and do not touch the timing until you've resolved the carbie issues.
as Trochoid has stated twice, now, get an FPR. when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? i also agree that it sounds like you have a major vacuum leak - as evidenced by your lack of idle. do yourself a favor and do not touch the timing until you've resolved the carbie issues.
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Yes, definitly run a FPR, with that said, you said you removed the carb harnesses, I'm assuming you mean the rats nest, did you get everything plugged up? this could be your source of vacuum leak.
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Hey thanks for the replys. I seem to be obsessed with getting the car running yet the weather and gathered parts seem to tell me otherwise. The problem lies with me I purchased the mani and carb seperatly from racing beat, So in essence I don't have the omp hooked up and the good news is RB is sending me the parts that connect the omp, crankcase breather, OMP ROD, and whatever else My brains forgotten beacuse if my impatience.... for Free so.. no shipping... no duty. Now I gotta give them props@@!!
PROPS TO RACING BEAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyways If they've been doing this for over 35 years so they got major Influence in the Community.
So I will just wait until those parts arrive. With Instructions. I was Kinda *choked*. When I found no Instructions inside the Carb box after I read the limited warranty. It would make Life easier If there was a part list and write-up on how to make it happen independantly.
But like any Rotary Crazy person I just had to have her run and hear the sound and POWER muhahah. I definatly felt the rpms *pop-up* much faster than with the stock nikki. The nikki had a slight hesitation before acceleration, thus eliminated with the holley for sure.
Now back to the reasons for my post. I installed a generic carter fuel pump provided by my local auto parts store, rated at 5-7psi. Now I was hesitant to Buy because racing beat requests a pump providing 6psi minimum, yet, I was able to run a relay to provide it with all the power that it could handle. With 18GA wire.
In respect to the vaccum leak. Near the choke close to the OMP Linkage on my RB modified 4160 there's a threaded inlet approx 7/16 in size. I've left that open, I also capped the vacc line next to the primary bowl. Running only one stock OMP line. I have been reading threads about the oil filler neck stem being attached to the Rb air Filter assembly.
All responces are greatly appreciated.\
cheers
Matt from B.C
PROPS TO RACING BEAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyways If they've been doing this for over 35 years so they got major Influence in the Community.
So I will just wait until those parts arrive. With Instructions. I was Kinda *choked*. When I found no Instructions inside the Carb box after I read the limited warranty. It would make Life easier If there was a part list and write-up on how to make it happen independantly.
But like any Rotary Crazy person I just had to have her run and hear the sound and POWER muhahah. I definatly felt the rpms *pop-up* much faster than with the stock nikki. The nikki had a slight hesitation before acceleration, thus eliminated with the holley for sure.
Now back to the reasons for my post. I installed a generic carter fuel pump provided by my local auto parts store, rated at 5-7psi. Now I was hesitant to Buy because racing beat requests a pump providing 6psi minimum, yet, I was able to run a relay to provide it with all the power that it could handle. With 18GA wire.
In respect to the vaccum leak. Near the choke close to the OMP Linkage on my RB modified 4160 there's a threaded inlet approx 7/16 in size. I've left that open, I also capped the vacc line next to the primary bowl. Running only one stock OMP line. I have been reading threads about the oil filler neck stem being attached to the Rb air Filter assembly.
All responces are greatly appreciated.\
cheers
Matt from B.C
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I hope you were running premix then without the OMP and trying to rev it hard, you might have done some damage to the motor. The OMP supplies oil to the internals, after you get this all sorted out, I'd get a oil change and a compression check to make sure it is all still healthy.
#23
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Originally Posted by Zyrano
Yes, definitly run a FPR, with that said, you said you removed the carb harnesses, I'm assuming you mean the rats nest, did you get everything plugged up? this could be your source of vacuum leak.
Matt, somewhere either on the carb or the intake will be the provision for the vaccum source for your power brakes. I am not familar with the Holley setups.
But if that large nipple on the carb is for the vacuum source for the brakes then that would be a gigantic leak.
#24
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Originally Posted by rx7doctor
FYI. When you run an aftermarket intake system the rats nests has nothing to do with nothing. Meaning the rats nests is gone along with all the STOCK ports from the STOCK intake system.
Matt, somewhere either on the carb or the intake will be the provision for the vaccum source for your power brakes. I am not familar with the Holley setups.
But if that large nipple on the carb is for the vacuum source for the brakes then that would be a gigantic leak.
Matt, somewhere either on the carb or the intake will be the provision for the vaccum source for your power brakes. I am not familar with the Holley setups.
But if that large nipple on the carb is for the vacuum source for the brakes then that would be a gigantic leak.
Hey doc the Vacc source is connected to the brake booster from the Intake manifold. The vac leak must be from the carb, I was only runnin 1 line from the omp with the rod disconnected and capped the other one. I just gotta wait for parts and instructions. I didnt drive it, I just idled poorly in my garage for a minute.'
In this pic I have a FramG-12 Inline right before the carb.
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Update
I've done these mods since the last time I spoke. Installed a FPR set to 5psi.
Installed RBhardware kit for the intake kit.
Question- do stock setups have a FPR? I know there was a white gadget just after the fuel pump with fuel line going in and out, I noticed this when I was switching the pump. Anyone know what that is?
No I got her started yesterday night and this afternoon ran pretty good a little shakky rpms were arrounf 2.5-3k, then Because I have had her plugged in all day"block heater" the rpms start to fall slowly 2k..1.9k..and arround 1.8k she died.
now a little info that might help you out is the engine has low miles conveted arround 72k miles. Ran very strong before with all stock components.
the adjustment I made were screw in idle mix screws til tight then backed off 2.5 turns. Adjusted the choke when cold to be slightly closed. Double checked that fuel was just ever so slightly seeping from both bowls with everthing removed. I alsochecked that the idle screw was still intact.
anyways I guess this is kinda silly to be asking but I know nothing about carbs and never really adjusted on before, what do I do and why isint it working.
Thank You.
Installed RBhardware kit for the intake kit.
Question- do stock setups have a FPR? I know there was a white gadget just after the fuel pump with fuel line going in and out, I noticed this when I was switching the pump. Anyone know what that is?
No I got her started yesterday night and this afternoon ran pretty good a little shakky rpms were arrounf 2.5-3k, then Because I have had her plugged in all day"block heater" the rpms start to fall slowly 2k..1.9k..and arround 1.8k she died.
now a little info that might help you out is the engine has low miles conveted arround 72k miles. Ran very strong before with all stock components.
the adjustment I made were screw in idle mix screws til tight then backed off 2.5 turns. Adjusted the choke when cold to be slightly closed. Double checked that fuel was just ever so slightly seeping from both bowls with everthing removed. I alsochecked that the idle screw was still intact.
anyways I guess this is kinda silly to be asking but I know nothing about carbs and never really adjusted on before, what do I do and why isint it working.
Thank You.