12A Rebuild kit options
12-10-07, 02:01 AM
#1
12A Rebuild kit options
Okay fellow 1st Genner's I've been doing some homework and looking around and rebuild kits from various sources and I've come up with a few questions. My first question is would it be wiser to buy the full master kit or just get a gasket and rotor kit? I noticed on Dan Atkins' site it show's his patent pending solid corner seals with springs in the rotor kit while the master kit just shows the 3mm corner seals and springs. Any difference? The solid seals sound good because as most of you probably know I'm building a full bridge 12A that will se boost in the future. Which brings me to my next question. Since it will see boost in th future I'm almost certain I don't want to use carbon apex seals because they don't like boost, unless I'm mistakin for ceramic seals? But I'm concerned about the stock steel seals because....well I hate the Devil's Nail marks LOL. I'm going to be getting the hardened stat gears but should I get 3 window bearings or race clearance bearings? I want to build this motor right the first time and not have to pull it back apart when it comes turbo time. All help is appreciated and if we get some great info going in here maybe this can be archived for future rotary builders to be able to look apon. Thanks alot guys!
12-10-07, 04:07 AM
#2
Solid corner seals with 3rd gen springs. Hardened and clearenced stationary gears. 3 window rear bearing. All the oil mods, ropr at 85 psi+, SE oil pump. If you're heading for 9K on a regular basis, have it balanced too. Full bridge can make power past 10k. Ceramics will last the longest, especially under boost and require special springs. The 2 will add 1k to the build. With a full bridge, one piece seals are a must.
Since you plan on going with Atkins, ask them to put a package together for you. Skip the kits or you'll be eating extra parts.
Also, consider your hp goals. A full bridge can take a huge turbo to make power at 10-11k. High boost pressures will toast the rear iron, doweling is recommended. Unless this is a drag only car, concider a sp or 1/2 bp with the turbo or full bp/NA.
Since you plan on going with Atkins, ask them to put a package together for you. Skip the kits or you'll be eating extra parts.
Also, consider your hp goals. A full bridge can take a huge turbo to make power at 10-11k. High boost pressures will toast the rear iron, doweling is recommended. Unless this is a drag only car, concider a sp or 1/2 bp with the turbo or full bp/NA.
12-10-07, 04:20 AM
#3
Car will be a multipurpose street/track car. Obviously not a DD but a fun car for the evenings and weekends. I'm honestly not sure where in the RPM range I'd want to see it at. I do plan about 18psi of boost though eventually but I will probably enjoy it NA for a good while
12-10-07, 07:25 AM
#4
I would do a streetport if you plan on it being a driver more than a tracker. Depending on turbo, at 18 psi, you can still nearly tripple the hp. On my 1/2 bp, power starts at 4k, kicks in at 5k. A full bp will kick that up even higher and I didn't care for my low end at all until I went with the dual DCDs.
12-10-07, 07:51 PM
#5
I'm not too worried about low end driveability. I just don't think a streetport will hit my goal at the track. I'm wanting to hit 11's in the 1/4 mile with full interior. I also will be going to Summit Point Motorsports Park for road racing and some autocross would be fun. I think a Judge ITO Streetport would be the smallest I'd want to go. The turbo I plan to use will be a RotaryShack hybrid HT-18
12-11-07, 02:32 AM
#7
Yeah I still need to send him a message and see what he thinks turbo wise. I've seen some impressive numbers from hybrids on FC's so who know's. I defnitely have plenty of time to do more homework and figure out what I want to go with
