1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

12a questions

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Old 08-02-10, 05:20 PM
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12a questions

I am new to the rotary and have a stupid question. We are trying to get the engine running right before we swap it and found out the cat was stopped up so I cut the exhaust right in front of it. I rebuilt the carb and did the Sterling mods on it and now It idles at around 1300 rpm's and bogs down bad when you go WOT and then catches up and does great up to 8 grand or so. I was wondering if no exhaust is causing some of the idle and pick up problems. I used the carb cleaner trick and cant find any leaks around the carb but am still gonna replace all the vacume lines to make sure they arnt leaking. Let me know what you think the problem might be please.
Old 08-02-10, 06:05 PM
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its supposed to do that

 
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Did you convert it to mech. secondaries? Mech. secondaries on the Nikki require a bit more finesse of the foot than simply mashing the pedal
Old 08-02-10, 06:39 PM
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Yes I did the mech secondaries. I am more concerned about the idle than anything else, it idles terrible and if you hit the gas pedal it will try to die unless you feather it alot. You have to rev it WAY up to get it to take off as you let the clutch. Like I said, I think I might have a vacume leak, but I cant find it.
Old 08-02-10, 09:54 PM
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its supposed to do that

 
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What do you have as far as emissions equipment? Air pump/acv? There is a tube that goes to the exhaust from the ACV as well.
Old 08-03-10, 05:29 AM
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I have the tube hooked up that goes to the exhaust, but everything has been removed per the instructions in the FAQ post.
Old 08-12-10, 04:22 PM
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Did a complete tune up and went through the carb again and it runs better but still doenst idle right. If you put it under load it idles and runs VERY smooth so I am thinking it doesnt like have NO exhaust at all on it. I only have aobut 4 inches past the intake so when I swap it out I think/hope it might do better. I will post up results after the swap.
Old 08-12-10, 05:33 PM
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It's not the exhaust. Even bare block without the exhaust manifold a rotary will run fine, if one can take the ear bleeding noise.
Old 08-12-10, 06:52 PM
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PSHH! PSHH! HEAR ME NOW?

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Take your pick. Carbed or fuel injected

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geWt0zS8l_E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi8Qy...eature=related
Old 08-12-10, 07:45 PM
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Thanks for making my point, how's the ears.
Old 08-12-10, 08:57 PM
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that is about how mine is running. It has great throttle response but still has that small miss every now and then. I have drove the car around the back and it does good enough I would drive it on the street. I have the Idle set at about 900 and you can let the clutch out and it takes off no problem. If I set the Idle any lower I seems to stumble just a little and then catches and takes off. I have checked for vac. leaks on all the hoses and around the carb. and havnt found any. The car set up for a couple of years and I have went through three fuel filters so I know I am getting crap from the tank. Like I said the motor is coming out and going in another vehicle so I'm not much worried about that, I just wanted to get it running decent before I started the swap.
Old 08-12-10, 09:17 PM
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Check your timing... it should idle smoothly down to 750. You may be just a hair lean, which will bump your idle up and make the transistion off idle a bit boggy.

Keep in mind these engines have damn near NO torque at idle - - not like a piston where the grunt's at the bottom, you need RPMs to build both torque and HP with a rotary.

If you can declutch casually at idle without throttling or stalling, you're idling a bit high.
Old 08-13-10, 05:41 AM
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Thanks for the advice.
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