12a holley smoking issue
#1
12a holley smoking issue
I'll try to sum up my issue real quick. I pulled a bridgeport out and put my stock port back in with my racing beat intake holley 465 and header setup. Since it had sat out of the car for a few years I was easy on her for the first couple hundred miles but everything was fine. Gave it a few hard pulls here and there but not over the top. Then I started it up one morning to head to work and it was smoking out the exhaust. ..A lot! And it also wouldn't Rev out. .. kept falling and stumbling but would start fine. I pulled the plugs and put a clean set in and cleaned the distributor cap that had some corrosion. Still same but seemed to smoke less. So i pulled the carb off that has needed cleaned and new seals. Reinstalled it and it revs up to red now but on initial start up it was smoking again. Shut it off and put a little bit more gas in it. was low.... and started it with no smoking right away... too early for the gas to have hit the floatbowls. So what's going on? I have a high output fuel pump that the bridgeport needed but it's restricted ... could it still be too much? I also checked the oil and it seemed pretty gassy smelling for being just a few hundred miles old.... any ideas?
#2
New fuel filter and new "T" for my return and it doesn't smoke till I get on it..... Had write a bite of oil in the exhaust. I gotta change the oil still so I'm hoping it's just pushing into the rotors. If I do have a bad seal what may be the culprit? And any "snake oil" additives that actually work?
#3
carb whisperer
New fuel filter and new "T" for my return and it doesn't smoke till I get on it..... Had write a bite of oil in the exhaust. I gotta change the oil still so I'm hoping it's just pushing into the rotors. If I do have a bad seal what may be the culprit? And any "snake oil" additives that actually work?
if your holley runs too fat (only way they run well), it will thin the oil very quickly, causing the oil to creep past the oil control rings.
Use an oil for motorsport, synthetic or non synthetic wont matter.
I use 1 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer (the thick stuff, not the synthetic new car formula), and 3.5 quarts of Mobil-1 15-50. Youll know its the right stuff because it has 2 checkered flags on the bottle.
It helps heaps, trust me. Ditch that holley too, btw.
#6
carb whisperer
And yes, a Nikki variant carb is the best bang for your buck. Anything but a domestic 4bbl would be an improvement over ANT holley.
#7
Updating from a while ago on the status of the Mazda. I drained the oil input some thicker stuff in and it's still smoking. I have noticed that it seems to be an oil creeping past some seals while sitting not running. After I start it and run it for a bit it clears out but as soon as it cools back down and give it a few hours it seems to have leaked oil and must be cleared again. Which one of the seals would have the best chance at leaking overnight? It oddly seems to run just fine but is not an issue I want to ignore, any ideas?
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#8
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
How many miles on that engine?
Is the smoke grey/black or white?
Are you premixing or using the MOP?
If that engine sat for awhile, the seals may have gotten dried and shrunk. The lucas stuff may help
restore them over time. I'd say give it some time. Its certainly not a critical problem at this point.
Is the smoke grey/black or white?
Are you premixing or using the MOP?
If that engine sat for awhile, the seals may have gotten dried and shrunk. The lucas stuff may help
restore them over time. I'd say give it some time. Its certainly not a critical problem at this point.
#9
Thanks for the response! The engine doesn't have a ton of miles on it.... got it in a parts car that had been rebuilt about 20 years ago and sat a bit.... Put it in my car about 7 years ago and drove it about 10k with no problems. Pulled it to run a bridge port and now have the stock port back in. I'll keep running it and hope it clears up. The Lucas stuff your talking about is the super thick stuff right?
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