It's hard for me... but I'll refrain on commenting on the previous posts.

Nice to hear U got it running! Got a tip on the oil pan. Mine has been holding solid for 4 years now. The torque on the bolts is VERY low. 3.6ftlb or something like that. When I had the pan removed I tapped it out as straight as possible with a hammer and bucking bar. (U may have to do this again if you gorilla torque’d it.)

Then roughed up the mating surface of the engine and pan with some 140 grit sand paper. Clean both surfaces (extremely well, no oil!) with brake cleaner. Then put a light bead of 100% silicone on both sides of the gasket before installing. Torque in X pattern all around to 3-4ftlbs. Let sit for 24 hours.

 

OK...
Oil pan gasket ordered from Black Dragon - $21
Carb renew kit, secondary metering block gasket and vacuum springs ordered from Summit Racing - $69
... GAH... Another $90 sunk into this project and I still need to buy a case of brake cleaner to clean the oil pan and carb.. LOL

 

I wouldn't use brake cleaner on a carb... Thats why they make carb cleaner... It's less harsh on the plastic parts,gaskets,o-rings etc.

 

agreed, but, it will be a complete rebuild so there will be no plastic parts,gaskets,o-rings etc. on it.

 

PLUS... I like the way it burns in my open cuts from working on the car .. LOL

 

Well.. I read the 85 Mazda RX-7 FSM

I was WAY off on the torque of the bolts. The FSM says 6-8 ft-lbs... I would conservatively say I torqued those bad boys 10x that.. LOL

Attached is some outcerts of the FSM...

 

Just dug through all my material to find the carb jet specs.

Primary Jet 051
Secondary Jet 054
Power Valve 8.5"

I don't know which Holley rebuild kit you should buy, the Holley website should tell you exactly which one to order.

I'm just using the timing recommendations listed on the Cartech instructions.

System runs very well and is almost factory smooth when warmed up. I don't know where you live but even in the summer her in Toronto you have to bring the car to operating temperatures before you can drive off smoothly. In colder weather I plug in the oil pan heater to shorten that time and make starting easier.

Jim

 

Wrong a properly sized turbo or a turbo too small can build boost when not under load. my old turbo Fb would build 2-3 psi reving it. 13b s5 street port with stock s5 turbo.

 

Alright, I should have said "to reach full boost".

On the other hand, revving it in neutral does put some load on the engine. What I said was technically correct, just not very useful.

 

Like I said earlier, it sounded like my wastegate was opening at partial throttle. I'm thinking i need to adjust it. Anyone know about how much force it should take to push open the swing arm on the wastegate valve if i'm targeting 6-10 psi?

Maybe i should wait to see what happens once I get everything back together and on a test drive.

 

Bump....

Wastegate swing valve resistence

 

Bump

 

Well I put a new oil pan gasket in and rebuilt the carb.

Got it started today and the damn thing wouldn't idle. I tried about everything. I finally threw my old Carter 500cfm carb back on it and ***purrrrr*** runs like a kitten. Damn Holley, wish I knew what was wrong... runs the same now as before the rebuild. Like the idle circuit isn't working. Guess I need to rebuild the Carter now.. grrr

Also... NO OIL LEAKS.. Woot!!!

I locked the dizzy at 10-12* Leading and 0-2* Trailing.

I still need to install my new fuel pump and filter.

THE BAD... when installing my boost/vacuum gauge my friend dropped it and the needle went to ~4 psi.. so, its all out of calibration. I called Summit and will be ordering an Autometer gauge.

Hopefully by the end of this week I will be tweaking my wastegate linkage to dial in some boosty ;p

 

More info specs on the setup please!! What is the engine size?
That looks like a 3310 Holley 750cfm with vac secondaries. Any issues with it?
What is the turbo? How much boost are you running? Any water injection?
What is the coolside shaft seal?
Looks like open exhaust! How loud is that puppy??
Looks like a very well thought out system.

 

Well, I've had the fuel pump/filter (boy, that was fun installing) and choke cable hooked up for about 2 days now. It's SOOOOO much easier to start with a choke... I would say it starts up VERY easy now. And... still no oil leaks.. Woot!! LOL

I should be getting me replacement boost gauge from Summit today and I will be installing it this afternoon. I know she is boosting... it pulls like a Son-of-a-bi-Ah-tch.

I will update once I know exactly where my boost is...

Laterz

 

Congrats!

U get your WB02 installed? What do your A/F readings look like under boost?

U know harbor freight sells boost guages for $18 now!

I'd hold off on the boost. Not knowing what your boost is sounds like a good way to pop that little motor quick!

 

Wideband installed... Runs pretty rich on WOT ~11.5-12.5:1 clear to redline. Cruise ~15:1
Ordered an Autometer 2 1/16" ES vac/boost gauge and should be getting it today.

Didnt know about harbor frieght... Dont think i want to trust boost to an $18 pos gauge though.

 

IMO 12.5 is to lean... With your setup I wouldn't go over 11.5 at any point.

 

where can i learn bout"draw thru " turbo, i have 85 12a

 

New Boost gauge installed. Tweaked the carb and now running 10.5-11.5:1 @ WOT. Was hitting about 10-12 psi once spooled. Almost hit 15psi so I decided to go home and check my wastegate swing valve as I could hear a lot of noise from the dump pipe.

GAH... My wastegate swing valve is sticking again. I live close to Bell Turbo in Corvallis, OR and plan on hitting them up for a replacement swingvalve assembly or repairing the one I have.

 

Sir:

First thing is to use the search button.

Next would be buy Hugh Macinnes's book "Turbochargers".

Then buy Corky Bell's book"Maximum Boost".

Once you have the basics and have a plan for what you want the car to do you can narrow down the type of system you want.

Many choose to do a blowthrough system with a boost prepared carb.

Blowthrough with fuel injection would be ideal, but you would need a megasquirt or other standalone FI controller.

Both the above can be used with an intercooler while a blowthrough is not generally intercooled for a number of reasons (see the books).

Drawthrough can be done more cheaply and is a bit more simple.
You will be limited to about 7 pounds of boost (possibly 10 pounds with an alcohol/water injection system). Custom turbo manifold will be needed along with suitable intake and air ducting. THERE IS NO "KIT" FOR THIS

See table 8 on page 59 of Hugh Macinnes's book for a comparison of Blowthrough to Drawthrough systems.

Hope this helps

 

He means DRAWTHROUGH


The limitation on boost is dependent on octane fuel your using, timing and A/F ratio your running. Generally, anything over 10 psi WITHOUT an intercooler needs some other method of cooling the intake charge... ie achly/meth injection.

Although there are no currently available kits, there are still some vintage drawthrough & blowthrough kits which were sold in the '80s... They are getting hard to find.

The old drawthrough kits generally come in two styles. One which utilizes the stock intake manifold and one which doesnt (see above posts in my this thread for pics)

I know that CarTech also made a BLOWTHROUGH KIT back in the day... I have only seen a couple of old ads for these and they are pretty rare

The concensious generally is if you have a 1st gen turbo, there is some considerable custom fabrication involved.

 

amen to that.

 

Does it just have a lock collar on it? I'm pretty sure they come apart? You should be able to pull it apart and just clean up the surfaces? On my old gate I just pulled the retainer clip and pressed out the shaft with a big c-clamp and a trimmed down drill bit. Scotch brighted the hell out of it and reinstalled it with some moly lube. (i'm sure the lube burnt out very quickly. After that I just strayed it with JB blaster every now and then. Never had another issue.

 

Wastegate problem fixed. The flapper is welded to the shaft which was making a fix more complicated.

I ended up taking the wastegate swing swing valve housing to Bell Turbo in Corvallis, OR. They cleaned it torched it to burn out any rust and let it soak overnight in acid to get rid of any corrosion. This morning (after soaking in a neutralizer) they bead-blasted the gate, re-torched it to burn-out any bead media which might have worked its way into the shaft than oiled it.... Flops around freely now... WOOT!!!

They also trued up my mounting surfaces while they were at it.

I am very pleased with their work.

Without an the exhaust leaking past the valve, the car sounds SOOO much better and you can hear the turbo whine a bit when it spools with a load WOOSH when the wastegate opens

I adjusted the wastegate linkage to let-off at 10psi and tweaked the carb again to run at 11.5-11.8:1 at WOT.