urquhartglen

laping or skiming works fine if done right... be better to find a set of plates without as much wear then you not affecting the harding... i have noticed that the 6port end plates dont wear as fast as 4 port ones. maybe they used a diffrent way of harding them?

gready123456

Urqhartglen any advice for me ? and i also have another question for u since u are from NZ i have heard about some front wheel drive rotary conversions have u ever came acorss any ? i am also thinking of putting a rotary in a front wheel drive car not going big on HP jus around 300 hp max

thanks

urquhartglen

hi. making mid 190hp from old set up unsure what it is making with new carbs.
it lacks a bit after 9000rpm over a 4port but way more torque down low (under 5000rpm) than a 4port. so nice to drive my wife uses it as well without a problem.
the engine is from a mid 80s cosmo. we have lots of 6port 12a stuff over here and no one was really using them so parts and engines were cheaper than the more common 4port so i thought why not ????????????? glad i did.. there still people who say to me why did you do that or get a 4port and bridge it etc. then they drive it and not 1 person hasnt liked it for power delivery etc but if high revs and out right power are your aim (drag/race) then use a 4port as i found they are better at high revs (over 8500 to 9000rpm) i have enough power to pull 8700rpm in 5th gear.. around 230kmph

urquhartglen

yes have driven mates mazda 323 with a 12a in it. still front wheel drive..
not very nice to drive tho, have look on( www.trademe.co.nz )type in mazda 323 rotary 12a and look through its a red wagon for sale on there. may give u sum ideas. if it still on there i post link up for you tonite as its lunch time and i dont have time to do so at moment... we got rotarys in everything hahaah vans, utes 323 bmw merc etc etc. if it will fit in then sumone is driving it lol...

Naegleria_Fowleri

It sounds like a fantastic solution for someone who wants more power than a street port, but still wants to drive their car on the street. I'm looking to get my hands on a six port 13B soon and building it for a friend just because of this thread and for the entire reason that he wants to drive it on the street, but wants more power than his current street ported 12A. I think it would be a wise decision.

urquhartglen

do you want templates? for 6 port. i left the runner std just polished and didnt really take much out of it apart from under cutting the port for air flow to catch on the bridgeport... carfull when porting the center plate as the water jackets are close. i have spare plates so i cut one up to see how far i could go before i hit water and made template from there... im doing a 13b s5 6port at moment that is going full bridge and carbed as he likes my engine and wanted one to behave the same but with extra grunt of a 13b

Naegleria_Fowleri

How much would you be charging for the templates? My plan was to just use a standard bridgeport template and just smooth out the standard ports rather than enlarging them at all.

urquhartglen

if you read back through this thread you will see my post about what i did to manifold and sleeves etc... as for your injection the easy way is to use injection perfection set up (in nz anyway) its a ida looking throttle body but has injectors and tps sencer. very easy to set up and you choose what computer you run etc.. here thats complete set up is around $1800nz about 900 to 1000? us

urquhartglen

on alloy sheet the templates will be $80nz plus post for inlet and exhaust.
Or will photo copy onto paper for free plus post and you cut it onto alloy or steel sheet. or use paper as a guide

gready123456

ok so before i start lapping i have one concern , the reason why i am going to lap the plates is because closet to where the spark plugs are there is a distinct line which i can feel with my fingers ,if i were to lap until this is flat i would cut out the nitride treated layer , do u think i just take the shine out of the plate and leave it with the line or should i lap the whole plate till its smooth and flat ? i am not sure if i can get the plate nitride in my country but i will look in to that depending on the advice u give

urquhartglen

if the step were is less than .10mm on the outa edge id leave it. if there anymore than .02mm from oil seal id replace plate with good 2nd hand... the nitride is 005" thick so you have a bit to play with but sumthimes its a bit uneven so you may go through at 004" or not untill 006" etc.. im not big on lapping or skimming plates as i have found that they are every touchie on the finish and sum start to smoke after 2000km or so. we have lots of rotor parts over here so gettin more ok plates takes no more than 15mins on the phone. but if you must lap then use very fine paste and make sure you stay even. as if you not carfull you will dish around port and centre and water jackets. that will make you day even worse.
were are you from? is there a machine shop there that can skim plate using carbite tooling to get smooth finish and then a quick lap you ready.
to lap those wear marks out you will be there for ages and never keep it flat

gready123456

yes there are machine shops where i can do that but i jus dont kno any where that does nitride hardening by the way i live in trinidad and tobago its an island in the caribbean, here is a pic of the step i will have to mesure how much the edge is with a dial indicator havent gotten aroound to it yet i jus felt the step with my fingers and it was very distinct so i just tought the worst lol any where here is the pic

urquhartglen

i wouldnt bother reharding them.(unsure of anyone who has done that) just get others if need.. that step looks like it might be about at end of it days. hard to tell by photos tho you need to mesure it... sum antifreeze would be good in your engine this time round... if you get stuck then go to www.trademe.co.nz and have a look through there. if they not to keen to send you parts then i can buy and send to you. if you transfer freight and cost of item to my acc...