1 rotor
#1
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1 rotor
I looked up **** under the search but i didnt get the info i wanted, yesterday i bought a 1gen and it seems like its just running on the rear rotar. My buddies and i took the front T and L spark plug wires off while the car was running and it still ran the same, so this is telling me that the Apex seals are stuck i think. So i poured some ATF in there so hopefully after 24 hours stuff will work out. What else do you guys think i should do. Do you guys have any other suggestions that i could check out because i need this car real bad for a everyday driver.
Thanks alot the help is much appreciated
Thanks alot the help is much appreciated
#3
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Yes the car starts, and actually idles on the back rotar, when i pull the front T and L plug wires off of the car it still runs on just the rear rotar, i dont know what to do, thats why i poured ATF in the front rotar housing thinking that the APEX seals are stuck, i'm hoping for the best, so anymore help suggestions would be great.
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Yeah i forgot to say that it also has brand new plugs and wires, and its getting spark, maybe i'll try another set of new plugs
Last edited by j-spec_wannabe; 10-04-03 at 01:50 PM.
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If you had a stuck apex seal, your engine wouldn't even turn, called carbon lock, or a loose seal. You could have weak compression in your front rotor though. Do you have spark on your leading and trailing plugs? Maybe fuel isn't reaching your first rotor.
But I'm just starting to understand the almighty rotary engine, so please correct me if I'm wrong and have other suggestions...
But I'm just starting to understand the almighty rotary engine, so please correct me if I'm wrong and have other suggestions...
#7
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I thought if the Apex seals were stuck that meant no compression, thats why i did the ATF trick so the ATF could free up those seals and give me my power back because there's nothing there in the front rotar, also its getting gas.
Don't get me wrong i'm new to rotary engines too, so correct me if i'm wrong too please
Don't get me wrong i'm new to rotary engines too, so correct me if i'm wrong too please
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#8
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if the apex seals are stuck on one rotor, neither will turn. they are both connected to the same output shaft. so if it seems to be running on one rotor, you could have horrible compression in one, probably blown apex; or you could have an ignition problem causing no spark for front rotor. first thing to do would be to make sure you have spark on all 4 plugs. if you do, most likely you need new apex seals on the front rotor.
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Check this out, won't solve your problem but you'll understand more about rotary engines
http://www.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm
http://www.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm
#10
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Alright thanks, so i cant do anything from the outside of the motor, the ATF trick wont work?
Last edited by j-spec_wannabe; 10-04-03 at 02:28 PM.
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The ATF trick won't work.
If you don't have a compression gauge, try this trick. Remove one spark plug from the rotor that you want to check the compression. Disconnect both coils!! Then crank the engine. You should hear the air coming out of the spark plug hole. With good and equal compression, the rushes of air you hear should be loud and equal (kinda hard to explain...). Now check the other rotor by using the same procedure. If one rotor has weak compression the air rushing out of the spark plug hole will make much less noise. If you've got a blown apex seal, then you'll hear one solid woosh followed by 2 weak wooshes of air (one apex seal affects two of the rotor's faces).
Just be careful cause that rush of air will have vaporized fuel in there. Maybe someone here knows how to do this in a safer way, but that's how I did it
If you don't have a compression gauge, try this trick. Remove one spark plug from the rotor that you want to check the compression. Disconnect both coils!! Then crank the engine. You should hear the air coming out of the spark plug hole. With good and equal compression, the rushes of air you hear should be loud and equal (kinda hard to explain...). Now check the other rotor by using the same procedure. If one rotor has weak compression the air rushing out of the spark plug hole will make much less noise. If you've got a blown apex seal, then you'll hear one solid woosh followed by 2 weak wooshes of air (one apex seal affects two of the rotor's faces).
Just be careful cause that rush of air will have vaporized fuel in there. Maybe someone here knows how to do this in a safer way, but that's how I did it
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From my understanding an apex seal can get stuck compressed AND uncompressed. So it is very possible one of his apex seal is stuck in a compressed state thus causeing his problem. Though you have to wonder why the guy sold the car to start with.
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Well thanks alot guys i tried the ATF trick just to see what happens so hopefully she'll be alright, if not i'll try your guy's tricks, but if i need anymore help i'll ask.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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Originally posted by rotor vs. piston
From my understanding an apex seal can get stuck compressed AND uncompressed. So it is very possible one of his apex seal is stuck in a compressed state thus causeing his problem. Though you have to wonder why the guy sold the car to start with.
From my understanding an apex seal can get stuck compressed AND uncompressed. So it is very possible one of his apex seal is stuck in a compressed state thus causeing his problem. Though you have to wonder why the guy sold the car to start with.
I had apex seals that locked in the compressed position on both rotors. The motor turned very easy with no compression.
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Take the plugs out of the front rotor housing (the one you think isnt working) dissconnect the coils so the rear rotor doesnt fire then crank it, and listen to the noise!!
If you get a good Solid PSST PSSST PSST PSST noise, then the compression is good, and it could be an ignition problem, but if you get nothing but a scraping noise or no noise at all, then the seals are goon and say hello to re-build time!!!
I had the housing linining desintergrate on the front rotor on my 12A due to high milage (280,000) and it destroyed the seals, rotor everything it still ran good enough on 1 rotar to get home, even started easily and idled, although it was very rough!
if you have the tools, get a boroscope and have a look inside the chamber, if the seals are stuck, it will look clean, but if the seals are gone/damaged whatever, then the housing will be scored and scratched to shithouse!
If you get a good Solid PSST PSSST PSST PSST noise, then the compression is good, and it could be an ignition problem, but if you get nothing but a scraping noise or no noise at all, then the seals are goon and say hello to re-build time!!!
I had the housing linining desintergrate on the front rotor on my 12A due to high milage (280,000) and it destroyed the seals, rotor everything it still ran good enough on 1 rotar to get home, even started easily and idled, although it was very rough!
if you have the tools, get a boroscope and have a look inside the chamber, if the seals are stuck, it will look clean, but if the seals are gone/damaged whatever, then the housing will be scored and scratched to shithouse!
#18
Ok all these ideas are great sources of input, but I hafta say..
cmon man...spend $20 on a compression tester and test the compression in each chamber. And then go from there...
<F>
cmon man...spend $20 on a compression tester and test the compression in each chamber. And then go from there...
<F>
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dude, i had the same problem. it was my carb not puttin gout enough fuel. only getting enough in one rotor. i have a good one coming my way though, so it should be fine. get a fuel pressure gauge and pull the sending hose off and check the pressure. or get a jug or something and see how well your fuel pump is. i had to replace my pump too. fuel starvation will definitely cause this problem. look in to this!
#20
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Well i'm baffled now, i think its my disturberter because my car starts and runs the same when i... i can take all of the plugs off while its running except for the L2 plug wire and the car runs the same as i did with all of the plugs in it? I dont know what else could be going on, i also think my carb. has a little to do with it as well, i'm totally lost, and all my plugs are getting spark, my car burned the ATF out of it too. I'm so lost, while its running i can mash the gas and it takes forever to rev, so what do you guys think
#21
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Well i'm baffled now, i think its my disturberter because my car starts and runs the same when i... i can take all of the plugs off while its running except for the L2 plug wire and the car runs the same as i did with all of the plugs in it? I dont know what else could be going on, i also think my carb. has a little to do with it as well, i'm totally lost, and all my plugs are getting spark, my car burned the ATF out of it too. I'm so lost, while its running i can mash the gas and it takes forever to rev, so what do you guys think
#23
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Well i'm baffled now, i think its my disturberter because my car starts and runs the same when i... i can take all of the plugs off while its running except for the L2 plug wire and the car runs the same as i did with all of the plugs in it? I dont know what else could be going on, i also think my carb. has a little to do with it as well, i'm totally lost, and all my plugs are getting spark, my car burned the ATF out of it too. I'm so lost, while its running i can mash the gas and it takes forever to rev, so what do you guys think
#24
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????????
Well i'm baffled now, i think its my disturberter because my car starts and runs the same when i... i can take all of the plugs off while its running except for the L2 plug wire and the car runs the same as i did with all of the plugs in it? I dont know what else could be going on, i also think my carb. has a little to do with it as well, i'm totally lost, and all my plugs are getting spark, my car burned the ATF out of it too. I'm so lost, while its running i can mash the gas and it takes forever to rev, so what do you guys think