$ reward to the person that can tell me what is wrong and how to get it fixed
03-26-04, 10:43 PM
#26
It Runs!
Thread Starter
Alright well what do you guys suggest I do, donate to the site that carlrx7 helped out, with the how-to's? BTW I think I have everything solved, I just have to clean up the wireing harness under the dash, because its just pure ******* fun! I have to clean all the plug in terminals too. Only one problem I have is my guages dont work at all now... 
I looked on the back, and another circuit burned up, i presume while a guy i know was fixing it. Well I'll try to fix that back up and then if it works i'm doing the rats nest remove and upgraded dizzy if its nice out!
I looked on the back, and another circuit burned up, i presume while a guy i know was fixing it. Well I'll try to fix that back up and then if it works i'm doing the rats nest remove and upgraded dizzy if its nice out!
03-27-04, 01:46 PM
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
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electrical problem
A ground problem is the likely cause.
If I had the problem I'd use an ohmeter to check ground resistance from key points back to the negative ground post on the battery.
A good enough ohmeter can be purchased for less than $20 bucks from many sources. I prefer a VOM with LCD display and autoranging for ease of use. And a standard replaceable AA battery. Again, should be no more than 30, and 20 is easy to find.
Using a VOM is worth learning. In this case, with car shut off, you are looking for resistance (in ohms) over 100mohms, or 0.1 ohms. That is typical maximum resistance in a decent connector. To get the problems you describe, you will problem find at least 1/2 ohm somewhere. Screw in grounds to the chassis are the major suspects, as they corrode easily.
Start by checking from the center post of the negative post on the battery, to the chassis. Make sure the point of your probe is making good contact through rust or paint.
Somewhere in the electrical system, you will find a poor ground. When you apply power, the load through the poor ground causes a voltage differential which reduces the voltage on the light(s) that dim. You can use which are dimming and which are not, as a clue. Problem could be almost anywhere the ground is made to the chassis, where corrosion is most likely to occur.
A good wiring diagram is useful, but not absolutely necessary. I've fixed such problem a few times without having a good diagram, or any diagram at all.
Good Luck,
Richard
If I had the problem I'd use an ohmeter to check ground resistance from key points back to the negative ground post on the battery.
A good enough ohmeter can be purchased for less than $20 bucks from many sources. I prefer a VOM with LCD display and autoranging for ease of use. And a standard replaceable AA battery. Again, should be no more than 30, and 20 is easy to find.
Using a VOM is worth learning. In this case, with car shut off, you are looking for resistance (in ohms) over 100mohms, or 0.1 ohms. That is typical maximum resistance in a decent connector. To get the problems you describe, you will problem find at least 1/2 ohm somewhere. Screw in grounds to the chassis are the major suspects, as they corrode easily.
Start by checking from the center post of the negative post on the battery, to the chassis. Make sure the point of your probe is making good contact through rust or paint.
Somewhere in the electrical system, you will find a poor ground. When you apply power, the load through the poor ground causes a voltage differential which reduces the voltage on the light(s) that dim. You can use which are dimming and which are not, as a clue. Problem could be almost anywhere the ground is made to the chassis, where corrosion is most likely to occur.
A good wiring diagram is useful, but not absolutely necessary. I've fixed such problem a few times without having a good diagram, or any diagram at all.
Good Luck,
Richard
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