What did you do to your FB today?
#6877
Damn, it did start!
Second Skin sound dampener.
#6881
ancient wizard...
All part of owning and working on 30+ year old Japanese cars. Been where you are now,acetylene glow red hot heat is your friend for best chance of removal of fasteners like that. Looks like you're well on your way to get out remains of that bolt.
Owned,worked on a lot of these,the corrosion,rust is specific to each car even two cars from same area. Garage kept cars tend to be in best shape when it comes to chassis rust but not always. 1st gens that have been outside all their life tend to have more,where they've been geographically makes all the difference.
Have seen cars with bodys so rotted you wouldn't look at them twice,but flip them over and chassis underpinnings right down to brake lines are golden=parts car. The other way around is really a shame where the body/paint/interior looks to be in good condition,runs good but out of sight rust that's beyond economical to repair even with DIY skills also makes it a parts car. Some you just can't save,have learned this the hard way. Really makes you appreciate a sound rust free car,these are the ones that though you may have to invest some coin to get it to where you want,it'll be around for a long time. A plus is they are much easier to work on.
Owned,worked on a lot of these,the corrosion,rust is specific to each car even two cars from same area. Garage kept cars tend to be in best shape when it comes to chassis rust but not always. 1st gens that have been outside all their life tend to have more,where they've been geographically makes all the difference.
Have seen cars with bodys so rotted you wouldn't look at them twice,but flip them over and chassis underpinnings right down to brake lines are golden=parts car. The other way around is really a shame where the body/paint/interior looks to be in good condition,runs good but out of sight rust that's beyond economical to repair even with DIY skills also makes it a parts car. Some you just can't save,have learned this the hard way. Really makes you appreciate a sound rust free car,these are the ones that though you may have to invest some coin to get it to where you want,it'll be around for a long time. A plus is they are much easier to work on.
#6882
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
"1983? that's an antique!", a mechanic exclaimed in 1998 at my rx-7.
"What is this, an old triumph tr-7?", a policeman exclaimed at a drunk checkpoint.
"What is this, an old triumph tr-7?", a policeman exclaimed at a drunk checkpoint.
#6883
Senior Member
Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
All part of owning and working on 30+ year old Japanese cars. Been where you are now,acetylene glow red hot heat is your friend for best chance of removal of fasteners like that. Looks like you're well on your way to get out remains of that bolt.
Owned,worked on a lot of these,the corrosion,rust is specific to each car even two cars from same area. Garage kept cars tend to be in best shape when it comes to chassis rust but not always. 1st gens that have been outside all their life tend to have more,where they've been geographically makes all the difference.
Have seen cars with bodys so rotted you wouldn't look at them twice,but flip them over and chassis underpinnings right down to brake lines are golden=parts car. The other way around is really a shame where the body/paint/interior looks to be in good condition,runs good but out of sight rust that's beyond economical to repair even with DIY skills also makes it a parts car. Some you just can't save,have learned this the hard way. Really makes you appreciate a sound rust free car,these are the ones that though you may have to invest some coin to get it to where you want,it'll be around for a long time. A plus is they are much easier to work on.
Owned,worked on a lot of these,the corrosion,rust is specific to each car even two cars from same area. Garage kept cars tend to be in best shape when it comes to chassis rust but not always. 1st gens that have been outside all their life tend to have more,where they've been geographically makes all the difference.
Have seen cars with bodys so rotted you wouldn't look at them twice,but flip them over and chassis underpinnings right down to brake lines are golden=parts car. The other way around is really a shame where the body/paint/interior looks to be in good condition,runs good but out of sight rust that's beyond economical to repair even with DIY skills also makes it a parts car. Some you just can't save,have learned this the hard way. Really makes you appreciate a sound rust free car,these are the ones that though you may have to invest some coin to get it to where you want,it'll be around for a long time. A plus is they are much easier to work on.
#6884
ancient wizard...
Looks like you have your drilled hole pretty much on center. As you get near the size of original hole,step up bit size very slowly til just a shell left in there and take a small punch and collapse the shell away from threads. With some finesse you can use an air powered hacksaw with a thin blade and cut thru most of the shell in 2-3 places and using a punch/pick,break out the sections to expose the original threads/hole size. I do this a fair amount for broken off fasteners in motorcycle engine cases where i need to save original threads and drilling oversize or heli coiling is not an option.Tedious,but works.
It is possible that bolt was cross threaded on install last time it was out and hammered home with an impact gun,not 1st time i have seen that happen in that piece you're working on. Threads may still be repairable.
It is possible that bolt was cross threaded on install last time it was out and hammered home with an impact gun,not 1st time i have seen that happen in that piece you're working on. Threads may still be repairable.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 03-31-19 at 12:08 PM.
#6885
Damn, it did start!
Electolosis saved a set of rear GSLSE calipers I almost got hosed on.
#6887
Senior Member
12a turbo
Did a little work to my jdm 12at today... Going to start being more proactive on the build... Made a flange for my now 3rd turbo manifold lol... Yes it is a real 12at!
#6888
Damn, it did start!
No, you have me confused with someone else.
#6890
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
It was finally warm enough to install the rear hatch "replacement decal" on the black metal piece that the hatch latch attaches to.
I bought it on Ebay from an Australian vendor. It truly is a perfect match to the OEM RX-7 logo colour and letter outline.
It doesn't stand out too much and looks just like OEM, minus 37 years of fading. Just gotta touch up some of the paint chips with gloss black.
Also it happened to be a very Rx7 photo. Racing Beat plate frame, Castrol GTX and Idemitsu all in one shot haha.
I bought it on Ebay from an Australian vendor. It truly is a perfect match to the OEM RX-7 logo colour and letter outline.
It doesn't stand out too much and looks just like OEM, minus 37 years of fading. Just gotta touch up some of the paint chips with gloss black.
Also it happened to be a very Rx7 photo. Racing Beat plate frame, Castrol GTX and Idemitsu all in one shot haha.
#6891
Senior Member
Taurus efan
Got a chance to finish installing my efan today...
All soldered wiring and relays and wires all tucked nicely...
Next thing to order my electric water pump and controller... And fuel injection parts..
#6892
www.AusRotary.com
It was finally warm enough to install the rear hatch "replacement decal" on the black metal piece that the hatch latch attaches to.
I bought it on Ebay from an Australian vendor. It truly is a perfect match to the OEM RX-7 logo colour and letter outline.
It doesn't stand out too much and looks just like OEM, minus 37 years of fading. Just gotta touch up some of the paint chips with gloss black.
I bought it on Ebay from an Australian vendor. It truly is a perfect match to the OEM RX-7 logo colour and letter outline.
It doesn't stand out too much and looks just like OEM, minus 37 years of fading. Just gotta touch up some of the paint chips with gloss black.
The following users liked this post:
Richard Miller (04-02-19)
The following users liked this post:
Richard Miller (04-02-19)
#6895
www.AusRotary.com
Poopy brown one is a NOS part from the US (I actually got the photo from a user on this forum). It is exactly the same part number as Australia and Japan (I have checked against the parts manuals). It is not unknown for Mazda to change small details like colour etc between years, but they usually indicate this by sticking a different letter after the part number (A, B, C etc). The part number for the part I listed was exactly the same as the original parts fiche.
Unfortunately it's no longer available new for me to look at in person.
I got my RX-7 20 years ago and I remember the hatch cover was in perfect condition at the time, but I couldn't tell you with any confidence anymore what colour it was because I have thought about it too much!
Unfortunately it's no longer available new for me to look at in person.
I got my RX-7 20 years ago and I remember the hatch cover was in perfect condition at the time, but I couldn't tell you with any confidence anymore what colour it was because I have thought about it too much!
#6896
www.AusRotary.com
I managed to get some closeups of the British tender blue series 3 RX-7 with only 200 original miles that was featured on Jalopnik. As shown below, it has the dark coloured logo. I strongly suspect this finish either rubbed off or faded leaving it looking whitish over time.
#6897
Rotary Enthusiast
Poopy brown one is a NOS part from the US (I actually got the photo from a user on this forum). It is exactly the same part number as Australia and Japan (I have checked against the parts manuals). It is not unknown for Mazda to change small details like colour etc between years, but they usually indicate this by sticking a different letter after the part number (A, B, C etc). The part number for the part I listed was exactly the same as the original parts fiche.
I
Unfortunately it's no longer available new for me to look at in person.
I got my RX-7 20 years ago and I remember the hatch cover was in perfect condition at the time, but I couldn't tell you with any confidence anymore what colour it was because I have thought about it too much!
I
Unfortunately it's no longer available new for me to look at in person.
I got my RX-7 20 years ago and I remember the hatch cover was in perfect condition at the time, but I couldn't tell you with any confidence anymore what colour it was because I have thought about it too much!
The following users liked this post:
KYPREO (04-04-19)
#6898
www.AusRotary.com
This would be fantastic. If I could somehow find a way to get an accurate colour match from it (Pantone card?), I know the guy that made those hatch logo stickers and may be able to get him to offer in the original colour. Or I have my own sticker guy who could do it as well.
#6899
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
Since I bought the car my wiper washer squirters didn't work. The pump motor works, but the squirters don't squirt (happens to the best of us). I opened the cowl and found the tubing "splitter Y" was broken and the fluid would just dump out there. Mazda doesn't list this part for the FB anymore, but they still make it for other models. And it's the exact same part, just like the check valve for the drivers side squirter. For tubing I used blue aquarium tube. Squirt Squirt, they work great now.
#6900
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Going to attempt to use a Toyota VCV to add some cold start idle air to my ITB setup. Hoping this provides enough air. Fits 8mm hoses. If it's too much air, I can manually adjust the flow with the set screw. The inlet will attach to air filter element. The outlet will tee into the two idle air ports on the throttle body.