Mazda has plenty of control arms in stock;

8871-49-310 and 8871-49-320 for the 79-83 (310 is the right, 320 is left)
FA54-49-310 and FA54-49-320 for the 84-85's (higher number on the left always)

the 84-85 arms are $10 more, not sure why, i can't tell them apart

 

Thanks! I was just looking at Balise Mazda; which seems to have pretty decent prices.

 

They DO. Just bought couple of rear trailing arms and were nicely about 20% under Mazda price.

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

Wanted to close the circle a little bit. Thank you all for the awesome assistance and discussion. The car is currently at the shop and the following parts have been gathered:
1 Pitman Arm, Centric
1 Control Arm Right, OEM
1 Control Arm Left, OEM
2 Flex Hose, Brake Front, OEM
2 Shock Absorbers, KYB
1 Strut & Mount Kit, KYB (Includes 2 KYB struts, bellows, mounts)
1 Set Lower Control Arm Bushing, Energy Suspension
1 Set Front Sway Bar Bushings 23mm, Energy Suspension
1 Set Front sway Bar Links, Energy Suspension
1 Set Front Strut Rod Bushings, Energy Suspension
1 Brake Line Kit, Rear Drum, MazdaTrix
1 Idler Arm, Moog
2 Inner Tie Rod Ends, Moog
2 Outer Tie Rod Ends, Moog
2 Adjusting Sleeves, Moog
1 Racing Beat Springs, Set (thanks, Nick!)

 

Keep us posted after driving on the new struts. I'm gonna do mine this winter, but have had a number of bad KYB experiences years ago. I've been looking at these since our choices are so limited these days.

Should be perfect once you're done!

 

I do hope these are fine - KYB is about all I can find in the "reasonable" price range. I figured I'd need to do the bushings in the rear, too; but apparently they are actually in pretty good shape.

 

Thank you all for your insight. I got the car back earlier this week. While it was in the shop, I had some other work done (clutch)
The car does appear to sit a very little bit lower (I'd wondered, since it was on original springs). The steering wheel does have a little play in it (always has) and it slightly off center - this is correctable?

it sure is nice to have it back! It was sunny here today - the first time this year, I think! I washed the car and went for a nice drive.

 

Yep. Pull St wheel:
-make sure tire pressures are correct!! Don't want to correct the St Wheel when low tires are pulling you hither and yawn!
-disconnect battery OR pull horn fuse, otherwise this procedure will drive you nutz.
NOTE position of Wheel, and where you want to reset it!!
-make sure ignition key is in and st lock is realeased. Otherwise you may break the lock assy as you proceed here...
-pry off horn cover. Its wrapped around at the edges to a circular plate beneath it. It is soft rubber (cover) and peels off easily
-21mm socket to remove center st wheel hub nut you see beneath. FunFact: your lug wrench is 21mm. Your welcome.
-nut off, grasp st wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock and 'rock' the wheel towards you (push one side while pulling other) to work it off the spline.
-re-seat wheel, same back-and forth may be needed to slide back on splines
-drop in Nut and tighten enough to hold the wheel in place - go for a drive to confirm correct position.
-GOOD time to clean decades-old lube off the circular metal contact that actuates the horn! re-lube with electrically-friendly lube...
Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

What a thread. Good info in here, guys.

 

I have replaced every rubber bushing on my suspension with Energy Suspension bushings...all of the bushings were destroyed after 39 years on the car..

Rebuilt all the calipers, made new brake hard lines, got new braided brake lines from Apexbrakes.com.com, serviced and painted the rear differential, painted everything on the rear and I'm finishing the front with Energy Suspension bushings also...also got TCM Racing lowering springs that will lower her one and half inch all the way around...

So...don't be afraid of the new poly parts...they are better that 35 + year old NOS.....

 

Definitely agree!