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sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!

Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!

Hello everyone. I am in the process of fully restoring first gen. At this point i am scraping and stripping the interior of the chasses from old sound and head insulation material, which almost looks and smells like new asphalt pavement. Looking into cutting costs whenever I can, and believing that majority of the “brand name products” can be easily replaced with “know how to” method, I am looking for alternative to insulate my car for less.
These brand mane products are great, but they are as expensive as hell. In the description it varies from fiberglass, to studio sound foam…to neoprene (what my surfing wetsuit is build out of).
I need help making it for cheap. One idea is to get straight up basic construction fiberglass(thinnest one), and compress it with a roller after spraying rubberized car undercoating (so it becomes thinner and denser). Also at the same time I could laminate it with aluminum foil for heat reflection- that’s one idea..

Anybody wants to give me a word of advice (thinking pre-conceptually, not go and buy option)

Thank you. Bartos
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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Im using construction materials

they work great

not sure how to translate, but its a thing pretty close to dynamat... for a lot less green
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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what did u exactly use,
I know that thing that is visually close to dynamat(?) -looks similar to carpet underlayment. I want something that wont absorb moisture or wont smell.
That dynamat material is very good but expensive.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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I know I posted pics somewhere here

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/%5Bmega-thread%5D-my-7-progress-since-day-i-got-her-tons-pics-692301/

it does not smell, absorbs noise and not water. Its used in roofs
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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thanx i look into your thread
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:32 PM
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its about 2mm thick.

self adhesive and easy to install
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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But why half bake it? Por 15 everything then put those sticker sound things then insulation (proper) and then carpet.

Better to wait to do it right than to try to do it on the cheap. "Fully Restore" means excellent materials.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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I will have to research a bit. I see that you live in Argentina, so probably material availability will be different a bit (different climat and codes). I actual design Interiors, but I’m not familiar with what you are recommending. Ill probably will start with rubberized coating, Then I will add patches of neoprene or rubber to catch denting sounds, and on top of that i will lay…..what I described in the first thread….and then aluminum foil (none-tearing)
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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because i believe that sound material are well over advertized and thare is a cheap and easy way of making it for "much" less.. I wont try to save on a new carpet...but insulation..yes..i dont have to spend $300 bucks to properly insulate it.

and again this is just an research so please be open w/ comments.

thank you
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Yea I didn't mean to question you. I would of said "Cause I am broke" or somethign along that line. But just saying if you have it apart if you save up for the better modern materials it will last you longer. Other materials can cause problems like mold if it get's wet etc. Or retain excessive moisture from condensation and spills the like. This will cause corrosion.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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ok i got u gettig going

i found this


"""""""Let me start off by saying I am an SQ junky, it's what I do, and live for. What I did to my car was this:
Rubberized undercoating, carpet padding, mat, etc, I have it all in there. My point in all this rambling is to look else where for solutions.

Carpet padding is cheap, and will help to solve rattles behind plastic panels. Rubberized undercoating is really great for the areas that nothing else will work into, as well as anywhere else. It gave me an initial layer of deadening, and still allowed mat to be applied. It's a REALLY cheap idea as well. A case of 12 cans will only run you 30 bucks or so, and it's worth EVERY cent.
WillOwnOneSomeday is offline Reply With Quote

""""




as well names fat mat . raam mat . rubb uder..whatsnext


aswell..
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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hello

ivo got this in the depot. Casher has confused SKU's and charged me 10 bucks (for 6 s/f instead of 60)-not bad. It is exactly what i was looking for...and i will be aiming direction shown on pic's. I will probably install fiber double- aluuminum both sides, and seal w/ metal tape (in this situation i will eliminate carpet underlayment.). I will try also shoot 3X foam into hollow body compartments (none water/ventilation related).

any comments or input?
Attached Thumbnails sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!-fiber.jpg   sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!-insulation-draw.jpg  

Last edited by drifted; Feb 20, 2008 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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i fould this. please read last line

http://www.heatshieldmarine.com/howto.htm
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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I see that this page stays quiet active, so i would like to add some additional information. I will try to not to use an fiberglass material any more due to problem w/ moisture accumulation. I have found an close cell syntetic rubber that i will try to utilize (#4). the prep and finishing will follow steps:

1. Metal prep as shown on "non technical" thread in this section of 1gen specifics

2. Good couple of layers of Rubberized undercoating (watch the weight)

3. None porous sound denting material (use extra layers of rubberized undercoatin, glaze w/ layer of silicone or por 15 mats- these can get pricey). I have also found an thin self adhering neoprene w/ one aluminum side sold ad depot in duct section. It is not expensive, and you cal line it at the roof (thin)

4. material w name listed "Insulation And Sound Deadener , 40 square feet !" on ebay- basically double aluminum glazed "Micro Cellular Polyethylene" I found it the cheapest and what seams to be the best quality.

5. For trunk hollow areas i will experiment with " DAB polyurethane fireblock foam sealant". It has much greater density than 3x foam.

Please watch for pic. updated following install in the next 2-3 weeks
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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I'd go for some of the adhesive sound dampening stuff first as a base coat then put whatever on top of that, carpet foam, acoustical foam, whatever. You can get a reasonably priced base sound dampening from http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ectGroup_ID=37
I've done a number of projects professionally using their products and have never been disappointed.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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prices not bad. i will get some of the stuff. at this point i have scraped all the old insulation leftovers and sprayer rubberized undercoating. I also pushed some foam into hollow spaces. thanx for info. Bman
Attached Thumbnails sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!-inside.jpg   sound insulation !!@#$%%@#$@!!-inside2.jpg  
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