Salvage yard find(s)!! Gotta love this!
#76
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#77
No distributor? No thanks
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First off, that's a hell of a fish.
Second, are you sure that it's carbon locked rather than seized rotor bearings? Where was the oil on the dipstick when you picked it up? Does it have a remote oil filter by chance (if installed backwards, no oil)?
If you decide to pull it, check to see if someone forgot to install the oil pickup in the pan as well - lots of ways to starve the engine of oil if it's been rebuilt. The good news is that you might luck into a fresh set of seals.
Second, are you sure that it's carbon locked rather than seized rotor bearings? Where was the oil on the dipstick when you picked it up? Does it have a remote oil filter by chance (if installed backwards, no oil)?
If you decide to pull it, check to see if someone forgot to install the oil pickup in the pan as well - lots of ways to starve the engine of oil if it's been rebuilt. The good news is that you might luck into a fresh set of seals.
#78
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When I got my first car, my parents bought me a $200 heap out of a sand pile, they said I didn't deserve a nicer car than that, it turned over (sometimes with a little persuasion) and that was what any 16 year old could ever want! My father knew where I was coming from when I said I deserved better, so he made me a deal take really good care of the pos, and get it running tip top and only then would I deserve something better. Low an behold by the time I was 17, the car ran better then his! HAHA and I cherish my 7
#79
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First off, that's a hell of a fish.
Second, are you sure that it's carbon locked rather than seized rotor bearings? Where was the oil on the dipstick when you picked it up? Does it have a remote oil filter by chance (if installed backwards, no oil)?
If you decide to pull it, check to see if someone forgot to install the oil pickup in the pan as well - lots of ways to starve the engine of oil if it's been rebuilt. The good news is that you might luck into a fresh set of seals.
Second, are you sure that it's carbon locked rather than seized rotor bearings? Where was the oil on the dipstick when you picked it up? Does it have a remote oil filter by chance (if installed backwards, no oil)?
If you decide to pull it, check to see if someone forgot to install the oil pickup in the pan as well - lots of ways to starve the engine of oil if it's been rebuilt. The good news is that you might luck into a fresh set of seals.
#80
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When I got my first car, my parents bought me a $200 heap out of a sand pile, they said I didn't deserve a nicer car than that, it turned over (sometimes with a little persuasion) and that was what any 16 year old could ever want! My father knew where I was coming from when I said I deserved better, so he made me a deal take really good care of the pos, and get it running tip top and only then would I deserve something better. Low an behold by the time I was 17, the car ran better then his! HAHA and I cherish my 7
kymber, I'm not sure if you have tried this but try using some PB Blaster on stuck moving parts. Soak them overnight, and see if the butterflies work better for you.
Last edited by 85 FB; 12-15-07 at 01:47 PM.
#81
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I agree with 85 FB, great story indeed...my Dad is giving me the 80 because I'm fixing the 79 with him, for him, but I'm 37...LOL
As far as the PB Blaster goes...My dad thinks WD40 is better (I disagree), but the butterflies have ATF sitting in them right now. I will probably just remove the carb for now so I can rebuild it. Does anyone know if a 1983 carb will work on the 79? The breather assembly looks a little different...
#82
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Heh, kymber, your dad needs to learn a few things. WD-40 evaporates. I like PB Blaster because it's a thicker liquid and just sits there and will seep into any crevice to break parts loose. I can't remember how many cans of that stuff I've used.
While I'm not that knowledgeable as the carb gurus, if the carb can fit onto the motor just fine, look about getting a different cleaner assembly. Shouldn't be that hard, I suppose.
While I'm not that knowledgeable as the carb gurus, if the carb can fit onto the motor just fine, look about getting a different cleaner assembly. Shouldn't be that hard, I suppose.
#83
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Heh, kymber, your dad needs to learn a few things. WD-40 evaporates. I like PB Blaster because it's a thicker liquid and just sits there and will seep into any crevice to break parts loose. I can't remember how many cans of that stuff I've used.
While I'm not that knowledgeable as the carb gurus, if the carb can fit onto the motor just fine, look about getting a different cleaner assembly. Shouldn't be that hard, I suppose.
While I'm not that knowledgeable as the carb gurus, if the carb can fit onto the motor just fine, look about getting a different cleaner assembly. Shouldn't be that hard, I suppose.
#85
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LOL I thought about that already... We did manage to unstick the motor yesterday. The ATF works like a charm even though we weren't able to get it in there via the carb. It's only moving maybe a third of the way at a time. We have gone 2/3 of the way so far and hopefully tomorrow it will turn all the way around with no hesitation. I think the carb is in for a rebuild. I'll just find what I need and tell Dad how much he has to pay for it...LOL So far the compression seems to be good, but will not know for sure until we get her to turn all the way around. I do know she shot ATF all over the place even though we turned it just a little...For some reason things just seem to fall into place when you stop stressing so much...
#86
Have RX-7, will restore
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i agree. just relax and take your time on the car and dont worry about the small stuff. you could use an 83 carb on a 79. i'd stick with the 79 carb though. you said that its in for a rebuild, are you doing it yourself or having it done elsewhere? the carbs are really easy to rebuild. glad the atf is doing the trick. its the only stuff i use. i use it in the blocks that i have on the shelf when storing them. make sure you change your fuel filter, belts, diff oil, transmission oil, flush the radiator/cooling system, replace the hoses and thermostat, plugs(after the engine starts),wires, inspect the cap and rotor, inspect the brake linings, flush the brake and clutch hydraulic fluid(use dot 3 or 4), and i think you'll be in business. keep us updated on the car's progress!
#87
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Most of that is already covered. It looks like someone started on it already with the new belts and hoses. Some of the fluids look fresh, too, but I won't chance those. Already got the cooling system flush stuff...LOL (great minds think alike!). I plan to rebuild the 79 carb but it's missing the breather. I'm gonna look for one but was asking about the 83 carb in case I get her running before that! (I know, I know...patience...~sigh~ ) I plan to replace all the fuel hoses, too...
#89
No distributor? No thanks
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Kymber, the fresh seals comment was just because an engine often seizes if something internal's been overlooked, which often means a fresh rebuild. You'd expect that someone that either rebuilt or just installed a new motor would be handy enough and motivated enough to remove a worthwhile engine, but maybe not. We all know - life happens. Maybe it was a repo and the PO just got it straightened out...
Regarding the seized linkages - it's common for the volatiles to evaporate out of gasoline and leave the sludge. If you haven't done so, check out your local parts shop (Autozone, etc) and get the 1-gallon carb bath. It looks like a paint can, but it has a tray inside. You can lift the tray, lay parts on it, and put it back down into the gunk. It will dissolve all the varnish and other junk, provided you can get it in the can. I don't think a Nikki will fit whole, but all the jets and other stuff will fit fine. Let it soak overnight and it'll be good as new.
It also does a great job getting spent powder off handguns.
Holy cow, you're in Georgia. How far out from Atlanta? We have tons of guys in Atlanta that can help if you get in a pinch.
Regarding the seized linkages - it's common for the volatiles to evaporate out of gasoline and leave the sludge. If you haven't done so, check out your local parts shop (Autozone, etc) and get the 1-gallon carb bath. It looks like a paint can, but it has a tray inside. You can lift the tray, lay parts on it, and put it back down into the gunk. It will dissolve all the varnish and other junk, provided you can get it in the can. I don't think a Nikki will fit whole, but all the jets and other stuff will fit fine. Let it soak overnight and it'll be good as new.
It also does a great job getting spent powder off handguns.
Holy cow, you're in Georgia. How far out from Atlanta? We have tons of guys in Atlanta that can help if you get in a pinch.
#90
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Kymber, the fresh seals comment was just because an engine often seizes if something internal's been overlooked, which often means a fresh rebuild. You'd expect that someone that either rebuilt or just installed a new motor would be handy enough and motivated enough to remove a worthwhile engine, but maybe not. We all know - life happens. Maybe it was a repo and the PO just got it straightened out...
Regarding the seized linkages - it's common for the volatiles to evaporate out of gasoline and leave the sludge. If you haven't done so, check out your local parts shop (Autozone, etc) and get the 1-gallon carb bath. It looks like a paint can, but it has a tray inside. You can lift the tray, lay parts on it, and put it back down into the gunk. It will dissolve all the varnish and other junk, provided you can get it in the can. I don't think a Nikki will fit whole, but all the jets and other stuff will fit fine. Let it soak overnight and it'll be good as new.
It also does a great job getting spent powder off handguns.
Holy cow, you're in Georgia. How far out from Atlanta? We have tons of guys in Atlanta that can help if you get in a pinch.
Regarding the seized linkages - it's common for the volatiles to evaporate out of gasoline and leave the sludge. If you haven't done so, check out your local parts shop (Autozone, etc) and get the 1-gallon carb bath. It looks like a paint can, but it has a tray inside. You can lift the tray, lay parts on it, and put it back down into the gunk. It will dissolve all the varnish and other junk, provided you can get it in the can. I don't think a Nikki will fit whole, but all the jets and other stuff will fit fine. Let it soak overnight and it'll be good as new.
It also does a great job getting spent powder off handguns.
Holy cow, you're in Georgia. How far out from Atlanta? We have tons of guys in Atlanta that can help if you get in a pinch.
Yeah, I'm in GA...about 4 hours south of Atlanta...I live in the DEEP SOUTH...about 40 mins from the AL line (going north, then west to get there) and about 30 min from FL (going North, then West, then South to get there)...LOL I live on an island down in the southwest corner of the state. It'd be quite a drive for some help, but my husband does cook a mean venison ham with all the fixins.... Unfortunately, it's byob,b,&b...(bring your own beer, bong, and babes...)
#91
RAWR
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I agree with 85 FB, great story indeed...my Dad is giving me the 80 because I'm fixing the 79 with him, for him, but I'm 37...LOL
As far as the PB Blaster goes...My dad thinks WD40 is better (I disagree), but the butterflies have ATF sitting in them right now. I will probably just remove the carb for now so I can rebuild it. Does anyone know if a 1983 carb will work on the 79? The breather assembly looks a little different...
As far as the PB Blaster goes...My dad thinks WD40 is better (I disagree), but the butterflies have ATF sitting in them right now. I will probably just remove the carb for now so I can rebuild it. Does anyone know if a 1983 carb will work on the 79? The breather assembly looks a little different...
You're lucky, good luck with the rebuild and getting the cars running.
#92
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Got the carb rebuilt, but have a few more issues to deal with before we can get her started. The tank is currently off of her and Dad is trying to clean her out today. Need to replace some of the rubber fuel lines due to age. I noticed the lines from the omp to the carb are missing altogether...there is also oil on the front of the engine where the omp was not blocked off. What could possibly be the purpose of removing those lines??? Looks like something else to steal off the 80! LOL
We took the breather assembly off the 80 to put on the 79 for now. Gonna have to take the coolant level sensor, as well as the omp lines. For now I'll do a search to find out how to check that to see if it's even working.
We took the breather assembly off the 80 to put on the 79 for now. Gonna have to take the coolant level sensor, as well as the omp lines. For now I'll do a search to find out how to check that to see if it's even working.
#93
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[QUOTE=Crit;7643644]Kymber, the fresh seals comment was just because an engine often seizes if something internal's been overlooked, which often means a fresh rebuild. You'd expect that someone that either rebuilt or just installed a new motor would be handy enough and motivated enough to remove a worthwhile engine, but maybe not. We all know - life happens. Maybe it was a repo and the PO just got it straightened out...QUOTE]
I just had a thought....I wonder if the missing omp lines have anything to do with the engine being siezed...like I said before...alot of the external parts look new as well as the fresh oil and such. There didn't seem to be a premix since the gas cap was missing and when we dumped the tank there was alot of water in there. We didn't see any oil floating which would indicate premix, wouldn't it??? ooohhh, the mystery deepens....
I just had a thought....I wonder if the missing omp lines have anything to do with the engine being siezed...like I said before...alot of the external parts look new as well as the fresh oil and such. There didn't seem to be a premix since the gas cap was missing and when we dumped the tank there was alot of water in there. We didn't see any oil floating which would indicate premix, wouldn't it??? ooohhh, the mystery deepens....
#94
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We got the tank back on and we got a backfire. I think the starter may be sticking so I have to take a look at that. Today I will finish setting the timing since we removed the dist. Put new pionts and condensers on her with a new cap and button on order. One jet in the carb continues to flow while the other doesn't appear to flow at all. Guess I need to check the floats or the jets. We have spark, fuel, and compression...so why won't she start??
#97
No distributor? No thanks
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There are threads with more info, but I've found the easiest way is to cut the ignition harness out of a junkyard car and use it to wire up the ignitors and coils. If you use an 80 setup, it has a little ignitor box that goes on the fender, but they're mounted on the distributor itself from 81-85 which is a lot easier to swap, work with, and it uses J-109 ignitors which are easier to find.
Until you check the compression on the starter, I'd be hesistant to state that you "have compression" as a weak puff can sound like a strong puff, and you really don't know what you've got until it's tested. You can use a regular piston compression checker, so long as it's got a 45 or 90 on the tip - otherwise it's just hard to squeeze in the plug holes and still get a good seal.
You know you have spark and air, so I'd question the compression and the fuel. If you haven't tried starting it on starter fluid, do that next. It's $4 a can, and it's just a super-flammable aerosol can that you can spray into the venturis as you crank. No matter how jacked up the mixture is from the carb, the starter fluid, or ether, will absolutely light every time. Just keep spraying into or over the carb and you'll know if you have compression and spark ironed out.
My GSL-SE isn't firing the injectors right now, and I don't know why. If I fog it with ether, it'll run fine until the can runs dry.
Until you check the compression on the starter, I'd be hesistant to state that you "have compression" as a weak puff can sound like a strong puff, and you really don't know what you've got until it's tested. You can use a regular piston compression checker, so long as it's got a 45 or 90 on the tip - otherwise it's just hard to squeeze in the plug holes and still get a good seal.
You know you have spark and air, so I'd question the compression and the fuel. If you haven't tried starting it on starter fluid, do that next. It's $4 a can, and it's just a super-flammable aerosol can that you can spray into the venturis as you crank. No matter how jacked up the mixture is from the carb, the starter fluid, or ether, will absolutely light every time. Just keep spraying into or over the carb and you'll know if you have compression and spark ironed out.
My GSL-SE isn't firing the injectors right now, and I don't know why. If I fog it with ether, it'll run fine until the can runs dry.
#98
Thunder from downunder
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nice find Kymber, my last 4 FBs have cost me exactly $870 to purchase. Let us know when you head to Detroit maybe a few of us could make a day run and meet you.
Have you searched for the thred on starting a rotary that has sat for a long time. One of mine sat for 10 years, after goingthrough the procedure it ran great for 50,000 miles until I decided to go for more power, it was running strong when pulled and sold.
Steve
Have you searched for the thred on starting a rotary that has sat for a long time. One of mine sat for 10 years, after goingthrough the procedure it ran great for 50,000 miles until I decided to go for more power, it was running strong when pulled and sold.
Steve
#100
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You know you have spark and air, so I'd question the compression and the fuel. If you haven't tried starting it on starter fluid, do that next. It's $4 a can, and it's just a super-flammable aerosol can that you can spray into the venturis as you crank. No matter how jacked up the mixture is from the carb, the starter fluid, or ether, will absolutely light every time. Just keep spraying into or over the carb and you'll know if you have compression and spark ironed out.
My GSL-SE isn't firing the injectors right now, and I don't know why. If I fog it with ether, it'll run fine until the can runs dry.
My GSL-SE isn't firing the injectors right now, and I don't know why. If I fog it with ether, it'll run fine until the can runs dry.
I tried the ether and it tried to start! (we got an awesome backfire or three...scared my poor dog!) The fuel seems to have ironed itself out...I guess sometimes they do fix themselves! LOL
So now I guess it's back to compression and spark...The motor turns fine with the starter, although it (the starter) does stick every now and then and doesn't want to stop spinning...rebuild ought to fix that...
I'm gonna check out the writeup on the dizzy swap since the only 1st gens I have found in the boneyard are the two in my yard that I'm gonna restore! Just my luck, they are hard to find here. I just sent the 82 to the crusher before I was able to get all the stuff from her. I would have had just what I needed there if I hadn't.
Thank you for all the info...I'm gonna check to see what I can find for her in the FSM link. Seems like there wasn't one for the 79 last time I looked....
Last edited by kymber39845; 01-15-08 at 03:59 PM. Reason: more info