Power Windows
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Power Windows
Got these doors on my new GSL; with these door panels, and these power window guides.
One of these things is not like the other.
Can I make these manual windows power with what I have?
One of these things is not like the other.
Can I make these manual windows power with what I have?
#4
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
The wires hanging out of the door - Is that for the mirrors or are those power window doors? (can't tell if that's a manual window door - plastic is blocking where the splined crank post would be). Those are PW door cards and motors, so you're good there.
Last edited by Maxwedge; 07-11-20 at 05:38 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Okay, I'll investigate. I definitely have the wiring and center console control. Something must have happened to the original doors.
Spend the day going through parts. The seller gave me a boot and two boxes full of grey and red interior and exterior parts, and a can of assorted fastners, connectors, screws, bolts...
Not sure where to start. The seats were out; I re-installed them. No side mirrors. Gotta get it VIN verified at CHP, so I got the cheapest mirrors I could find (until I can find some OEM power mirrior replacements).
Need two 13in rims and tires,or four matching of some other. Then I'll motor it to a mechanic to get a once over.
Took a few pics ofpice floorboard and the storage bin void. I've read that is a prime place for rust. There is an over lay in thr bin void space, is that normal of some patch/repair?
Thoughts about where to start and what to expect?
Spend the day going through parts. The seller gave me a boot and two boxes full of grey and red interior and exterior parts, and a can of assorted fastners, connectors, screws, bolts...
Not sure where to start. The seats were out; I re-installed them. No side mirrors. Gotta get it VIN verified at CHP, so I got the cheapest mirrors I could find (until I can find some OEM power mirrior replacements).
Need two 13in rims and tires,or four matching of some other. Then I'll motor it to a mechanic to get a once over.
Took a few pics ofpice floorboard and the storage bin void. I've read that is a prime place for rust. There is an over lay in thr bin void space, is that normal of some patch/repair?
Thoughts about where to start and what to expect?
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I should probably confirm the power window motor arms work before trying to install them. Yes?
Seems I should get the center console power window control connected; confirm power to the fuse and a good fuse; connected each arm and see if it moves, yes?
Seems I should get the center console power window control connected; confirm power to the fuse and a good fuse; connected each arm and see if it moves, yes?
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have no idea where such a thing is located, what such a thing looks like, or how such a task is accomplished.
Of what benefit would be such a change?
Do you have pics or instructions?
Thanks,
Of what benefit would be such a change?
Do you have pics or instructions?
Thanks,
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Is there a way to test the power window arm motors and the center console switches, to make aure they are still good, before getting into the nitty-gritty of the relay?
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
This thread might help you with the power window hardware!
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...rofit-1145030/
You could isolate the switch with a simple multimeter continuity test. If it is the motor, not sure where to go from there...
Car looks pretty clean! Good luck getting it going again.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...rofit-1145030/
You could isolate the switch with a simple multimeter continuity test. If it is the motor, not sure where to go from there...
Car looks pretty clean! Good luck getting it going again.
#17
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
As a small note, make sure you grease the sliders/tracks on the new window assembly. My first '85 RX7 had slooooowwwwww windows and I thought the motors were dying. Went to Mazda asking for new motors and the parts man told me to grease the tracks first. He was right - the windows worked like new again.
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fbse7en (02-09-23)
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Will either one of these testers give me the same verification results as a meter, or do I need to pay for a meter?
Just so I understand !
1. Make sure there is power.
2. Test the connector lead on the end where the power window motor is to be connected for continuity through those wires?
3. Then do the same for the center console switch?
4. If both work hook up the motor (before install), and try it all together?
Something like that? I have NOOO idea what I'm doing. But, I'm a fast learner (no I'm not). I do listen well (no I don't).
I'm a mess, trying to have fun at a new thing with a car I owned as a boy.
Be patient with me, please. Talk to me like I'm five.
🤣🤣🤣
Just so I understand !
1. Make sure there is power.
2. Test the connector lead on the end where the power window motor is to be connected for continuity through those wires?
3. Then do the same for the center console switch?
4. If both work hook up the motor (before install), and try it all together?
Something like that? I have NOOO idea what I'm doing. But, I'm a fast learner (no I'm not). I do listen well (no I don't).
I'm a mess, trying to have fun at a new thing with a car I owned as a boy.
Be patient with me, please. Talk to me like I'm five.
🤣🤣🤣
#19
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
That/those testers will light up when 12v is put to one side and other lead to ground. So, if you start from an energized part of the circuit - say, turn the ignition switch on and work your way from the harness through the switch -- it will tell you 12v is flowing that way. Because the light on the tester will light up. Only problem with a simple tester like that is that the circuit being tested has to be energized, but yes it's a start. With a proper multimeter you can check continuity without anything being connected or energized, which is often more convenient. So it's not a continuity tester but can test if there's 12v DC power on something.
#20
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just to cross the T's
the power window regulators and door panels will fit in the door, 81-85 the doors are all the same. you will want to make sure you have the power window door harness, i think the red and green wires are the ones, but you should make sure.
please clean and grease the regulators, they like it
for testing them, i would plug it all in and hit the switch, although you can use the lights too
you should also redo the plastic on the inner doors, it keeps the door panels from getting wet, any plastic works, trash bag, whatever
the power window regulators and door panels will fit in the door, 81-85 the doors are all the same. you will want to make sure you have the power window door harness, i think the red and green wires are the ones, but you should make sure.
please clean and grease the regulators, they like it
for testing them, i would plug it all in and hit the switch, although you can use the lights too
you should also redo the plastic on the inner doors, it keeps the door panels from getting wet, any plastic works, trash bag, whatever
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Maxwedge (07-12-20)
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
GSL Driver Side Wiring Harness Connectors.
I got a multimeter.
I've got power.
The fuse for the power windows is in and good.
How do I determine which connector is for the windows? Or, do I test them all just because?
One or all, what is the next step? Apply which multimeter probe where,and expect what result?
- I told y'all, tell it to me "like I'm a five year old".🤣
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have two center console power window controls.
I used a multimeter to test them both in accordance with the attached.
On both controls, the 'A and F' test did not move the needle.
All other combinations did register to 0.
Does this mean both controls are dead?
I used a multimeter to test them both in accordance with the attached.
On both controls, the 'A and F' test did not move the needle.
All other combinations did register to 0.
Does this mean both controls are dead?
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