Well I found another FB the other day and finally got her home today. the previous owner says that it has a bad side seal and a bad apex seal. They already started to strip down the engine and lost interest. I decided to pick her up and make a nice little cruiser out of her, since there is no point in building anything fast after gateway closed down.


Sorry for the crappy photos, once I give her a bath I will take some better ones.

 

The black spot on the hood, is that paint pealed off?

Seems low mileage for blown seals, and it looks like you'll have a lot of rust to contend with. I hope you got a damn good deal on it.

That said, I'd rather someone rebuild it than scrap it. Good luck!

 

No rust anywhere visable so far, except the top of the cargo boxes, and its all surface. I have sanded some of it down already and not finding anything but good metal under it. I do plan to remove all the interior just to check for rust anywhere else.

The black spot on the hood is a sealer after the paint started peeling, and there is no rust under it, but I plan to replace the hood anyway.

I have know and worked on this car since the late 90s and it spent ALOT(2 years at a time) of time sitting then fired up without any prep. I am not surprised at all that the seals went.

 

very nice 84-85 S model! the black under the hood indicates a new oem hood was installed at one time. perhaps due to a crash or a minor fender bender. check the sealer on the fender tops and see if its cut or broken to indicate fander replacement as well. the gaps in the headlight to header panel and header panel to hood indicate a front end colission some time ago in the car's life. very nice project though! keep us posted with new pics!

 

The problem is, the tops of the storage boxes should be the last thing to rust. I would expect a lot of surface rust under the carpet, etc. You probably have some serious rust in the inner wheel well area. Hopefully not, maybe some idiot left a wet towel on top of the boxes.

 

You do know there is a HUGE **** drawn on your windshield!!!!

 

the reason the bin frames, especially the top where the metal carpet strip mounts rusts is because of moisture in the car being trapped under that carpet strip. the moisture tends to spread to the thinner less galvanized metal of the bin frame. the wheel well rust is a direct result of of a poor seam sealer inside of the outer wheel well. moisture and road salt become lodged and trapped between the layers of metal and the rusting occurs. because the bin frames are rusty, it doesnt always mean the wheel wells will be as well.

 

LOL Yeah, thats not all thats been drawn on the car.

Yeah, it had a small off center front end hit a long time ago(80s). The structure is good, but left a few tell tale signs.



This always seems to happen to me. I get a new toy and I have to fly off on a business trip. I leave for Waseca Minnesota today, then off to somewhere in Ohio next week. As a side effect of being gone for 2 weeks in a row, I will be spending the weekend with my family. Might get it cleaned up this weekend, but wont be able to spend to much time making my repair list.

 

where in ohio might you be going?

 

Cleveland

 

Here are some pics of the engine bay taken around dawn this morning.

 

Looks like a good project! I like sunrise red too. Good luck with it.

 

if, when you are in ohio, you need anything for the car that i can help with let me know. i'm 35-40 mins west of cleveland.

 

great for a 13bbpt get some detailing product's and make it shine...look's very solid.Im going see if i can post a pic.....

 

this is what im talking about look at the wheel's your car is perfect.........

 

Gonna be a nice car..Nice Save!

 

Wow, thoes look perfect. Any idea the tire size that guy is running on back?

 

those are mickey thompson..I don't know the size but i will find out for you....

 

I got a chance to wash her today, and Brigdh was right there is some wheel well rust. Its not to bad.

here are the clean pics.

 

Hit a huge snag in the search for a new 12a.. The place I was going to buy it from flooded due to a water main break. Now the city is buying their engines at 250 each, so they won't sell it for any less. I have not been able to find another 12a in driving distance. I do not want to over pay for an engine but I am kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place here....

 

i think $250 for a good running 12A is a more than fair buy.

 

This was a good running until it was submerged in water then left sitting.

 

ah gotcha. i thought the engines were ok. a water flooded engine would probably still be fine though. turn it over by hand with the plugs and exhaust manifold removed and once all of the water is out of it squirt some mmo in itand turn it over by hand several times. this will prevent any rust form forming and after the engien starts it will be as good as it was before the flood, maybe even a little cleaner after the marvel mystery oil treatment. you could use the flood as a bargaining ship and pick the engine up cheaper!

 

2 quick questions that dot really warrant a new thread but might be able to be answered here.

1: anyone have a link to how to strip a Nikki? The one in the FAQ has all broken pic links. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/

2: this is an 85 but has rear drums, does this mean I have the big bearing axles or not?

 

#2, yes, every car 1984 Model year and newer is big bearing. the brake type, drum or disc makes no difference. the thing that confuses people is that there are 3 types, and not 2.

79-82 is small axle small, driveshaft flange
83 is small axle, BIG driveshaft flange.
84-85 is big axle, big d/s flange.

so the 83 can LOOK like a big axle axle, but its not