Oil Filler Neck Rust
02-26-24, 10:14 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It should be fine. Just keep a look out for leaks.
I think the torque is 8 ft lbs. I don't even use a torque wrench on this. I just go by feel keeping in mind it just needs to be tight.
The compression numbers will tell the truth about the health of the rotor seals. The other wildcard would be the oil control rings. If you see dark clouds of smoke or oil dripping out the exhaust, that can be the oil control rings. Since this car hasn't run in a long time, I wouldn't make any judgements until it has run for an hour or so. Start it up and just let it run for 20-30 minutes (out side). This will get the engine up to temp and reveal and leaks but will also allow things to loosen up. As long as nothing dramatic happens, do this a couple of times.
If this goes well, then put a can of seafoam in the gas and let it run. It's going to smoke likes it's on fire so do this outside. This should remove the built-on carbon on those rotors.
Make sure to replace the fuel filter first. I bet that gas tank is full of crap.
I think the torque is 8 ft lbs. I don't even use a torque wrench on this. I just go by feel keeping in mind it just needs to be tight.
The compression numbers will tell the truth about the health of the rotor seals. The other wildcard would be the oil control rings. If you see dark clouds of smoke or oil dripping out the exhaust, that can be the oil control rings. Since this car hasn't run in a long time, I wouldn't make any judgements until it has run for an hour or so. Start it up and just let it run for 20-30 minutes (out side). This will get the engine up to temp and reveal and leaks but will also allow things to loosen up. As long as nothing dramatic happens, do this a couple of times.
If this goes well, then put a can of seafoam in the gas and let it run. It's going to smoke likes it's on fire so do this outside. This should remove the built-on carbon on those rotors.
Make sure to replace the fuel filter first. I bet that gas tank is full of crap.
Oh wow okay, that's much lower than I thought haha. And it's funny you say you do it by hand, as that's what I did with the rest of them after I broke that one lol.
Ah okay, and I figured once I get the car running for a time and see how it runs, I'll see if I need to get a compression tester or not, as I would get one now but I'd prefer to see a potential need for it before I get it. Ahhh good to know, I'll also keep a lookout for that
I'll definitely run it for a while (outside
), and also when you mentioned running the engine up to temp, I believe someone mixed two different coolants together, as there was lots of sediment-like sludge in the intake manifold, as well as the coolant ports on the side of the block, and I tried my best cleaning it all out, but I assume I'll have to do an in-depth cleaning once the engine is ready to run. Is there any recommended procedure for that? Any special chemical that could break up potential blockages in the coolant jacket? Ah great, and would that just be generic seafoam? Or is there a certain variety I need...
And man, I just have to say, I so appreciate everyone's help, this forum is so cool
02-27-24, 01:26 PM
#27
Other then the standard coolant system flush stuff I'm not sure. You want something you can run through a couple of heat cycles. For now, I would not use coolant and just go straight water with the the standard rad flush inline valve and garden hose. There is also a small block drain bolt at the bottom of the center iron. It's fairly small. It's meant to get all most of the coolant out the the block when stored.
You can try Evapo-Rust to get the junk out of the inside. They do say it is safe for aluminum. I have never tried this.
You can try Evapo-Rust to get the junk out of the inside. They do say it is safe for aluminum. I have never tried this.
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OilyRotor16 (02-27-24)
02-28-24, 05:27 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Other then the standard coolant system flush stuff I'm not sure. You want something you can run through a couple of heat cycles. For now, I would not use coolant and just go straight water with the the standard rad flush inline valve and garden hose. There is also a small block drain bolt at the bottom of the center iron. It's fairly small. It's meant to get all most of the coolant out the the block when stored.
You can try Evapo-Rust to get the junk out of the inside. They do say it is safe for aluminum. I have never tried this.
You can try Evapo-Rust to get the junk out of the inside. They do say it is safe for aluminum. I have never tried this.
One last question, slightlyyy off-topic, I want to finally reinstall the intake manifold, and have been trying to find some info on if/how I should seal the rubber o-rings, but haven’t found anything on Rad’s channel (the only video I found was where he blocked off the coolant ports), nor on the forum or in my Hayne’s manual.
I was curious if I need to use any sort of sealant for the o-rings or if I can just stick the intake gasket to the block with a little black permatex, put the o-rings in and stick the manifold on.
02-28-24, 06:56 PM
#29
The manifold water o-ring seals do not use sealant. You could put just a very light coat to hold then in place. When I say light, just enough to make them sticky. I've never used any on them. I have however used the same light amount to cover the intake gasket. I do this because if I need to remove the manifold after heating the engine, it helps the gasket to not fuse to the intake or engine.
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OilyRotor16 (02-28-24)
02-28-24, 07:03 PM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The manifold water o-ring seals do not use sealant. You could put just a very light coat to hold then in place. When I say light, just enough to make them sticky. I've never used any on them. I have however used the same light amount to cover the intake gasket. I do this because if I need to remove the manifold after heating the engine, it helps the gasket to not fuse to the intake or engine.
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