Paulieboy72

Oh yeah, good idea thanks ill try that. Yes I need a new slave and master I think. Def a slave

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

so if everything is assembled correctly, and the pump just isn't priming (its airlocked) you can get oil into the pump by pouring it into the oil cooler pipe.
the FC is nice because its a hose. on the one i did i filled the hose, and cranking the engine by hand you could see the pump pulsing the oil.

once it primed it was fine. really odd, in all the engines i've done usually they just prime themselves.

if its not that, then its a mechanical problem, and i'm not sure how you could fix it without pulling it apart

Paulieboy72

Thank you I will post here when I figure it out

Eydes2Rotor

iTrader: (3)

if you need any help with troubleshooting this shoot me a message. I just dealt with a similar issue on my car. I have taken the front cover off in the car twice now, and I’m pretty comfortable with it now. If that’s what you decide you want to try, i can give you some tips. It’s risky, but saves a decent amount of time if done correctly. I’ve actually been thinking about fabricating a tool that would bolt into the factory slave location and allow for mechanical locking of the clutch so this procedure could be done more safely/consistently.

Paulieboy72

I am actually pulling the cover tomarrow, going to lock out the clutch using a board wedged beyween the slave bolts and shift forks. Jopefully that works

Eydes2Rotor

iTrader: (3)

that should work, just make sure you have the clutch maxed out in travel. You don’t want any chance of those Torrington bearings falling down or you’re gonna have a bad day. Not trying to patronize you, just wanna make sure you’re sweating a little bit when you do this because you should be lol.

Paulieboy72

Got it. Just can't figure out what the priblem is. I'm sure I got the key in the pump and flattened the washer. I dibt think I filled it with oil however

Eydes2Rotor

iTrader: (3)

Could be way off base here, but are you sure you installed the little oring for the oil galley that goes into the front oil pressure regulator? My motor didn’t require one because i was using a 12a front cover on a Renesis front iron with the rx-8 metallic gasket, but iirc every other engine requires the o ring. From what I’ve heard that o ring can cause oil pressure issues

Paulieboy72

No not sure but will find out tomarrow

Paulieboy72

Problem found possibly...doea this look like the oil pump key? It was in the bottom of the pan.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yep, oil pump key.

take the pump off, and put the sprocket on with the pump off the engine, so you can make sure the key stayed where its supposed to,
then you can put the pump back on the engine, and it'll be good

Paulieboy72

Ok thank you

Toruki

Glad you found the problem!

[​​​​QUOTE=Paulieboy72;12599299]Oh yeah, good idea thanks ill try that. Yes I need a new slave and master I think. Def a slave[/QUOTE]

Make sure to replace the master, slave, and flex line when you do get around to it. When one of the units fail the other is not long behind it, and a big part of it is contamination in the fluid, so cleaning the hard-line is a good idea.

Paulieboy72

Will do thanks

Paulieboy72

So looks like I will have to fix the clutch. I don't have enough strength to push the clutch fork in being a brand new clutch and pressure plate to place a board between in and the slave bolts

Eydes2Rotor

iTrader: (3)

If you have access to a welder, you could fabricate a bracket that allows you to tension the clutch fork with a bolt and wrench. This is what i was planning on building. Fixing the clutch is probably faster though

Paulieboy72

I have a question how does pushing the clutch in keep the Torrington bearings from falling off the eshaft

Paulieboy72

I will have a working clutch by this weekend I installed a new master and slave cylinder just have to bleed them

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

it puts pressure against the rotating assembly, towards the front of the engine. this will keep that bearing from falling when the front pulley is removed.

Paulieboy72

How do I keep the eshaft from turning, when removing the eshaft bolt? Engine is in car and engine mount removed, engine is supported with a floor jack

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Add a flywheel stop. You might need to add the stop, and just crack the front bolt a very little. Then put the trans on and add the hydraulics.

At this point I'd think about just removing the engine and turn it up. You can leave most of the stuff on the engine except the water pump housing, alt, air pump since you need to remove the front cover once it's in the upright position.

Then when installing the engine, put the trans on outside the car and install as a unit. You can even add the clutch slave outside the car.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

flywheel stop works great, provided the trans isn't still bolted to the engine.

if u don't have air/battery impact wrench, 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, and decent size hammer will work. used this method many yrs back. didn't seem to matter that the shaft turned a little bit. probably could rent the impact tools from places like advanced or autozone.

Paulieboy72

trying not to remove the engine and trans again. they are both still in the car. i no longer have an engine hoist and dont want to spend 5 days trying to mate the trans with the motor again. i do have a flywheel stop, is it possible to use it while the trans is mounted to the engine? otherwise i just have to find a way to keep the eshaft pulley from turning

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

put it in 5th gear?

Paulieboy72

maybe to just loosen the nut right? cause before the nut comes out the clutch has to be pushed in and kept there