No oil pressure
 

I have no oil pressure. Dash gauge is good, oil sender good. I read on another thread you have to prime the pump.took off oil filter, poured oil down center tube on oil cooler then removed oil line going to front of motor, pourd more oil down oil cooler and....nothing comea out of the oil feed tube. Its like the oil cooler passage is blocked or somthing. Is there a certain way the banjo bolt goes? When tight will the hole line up with the oil tube.?

The pump doesn't need to be primed. Any priming would need to be done from the pickup tube. I'd take apart the front cover connection and see if anything is coming out during cranking. If it does it's going to make a mess. My guess would be either pump, regulator or pickup tube.

ugh, removing the front cover means removing the motor again, right? someone on this forum suggested pouring oil down the center of the oil cooler and see that oil comes out of the main tube that comes from the cooler to the front the motor down where the oil pick up tube in the pan is.,.then reinstall the tube, then turn the motor over backwards to get oil going into the cooler. i did all that and i get no oil from the cooler down to the motor or vice versa. when i installed the pick up tube i made sure that it was clean and clear. cant remember if i put oil in the oil pump before i installed it, i think i did. typically these oil pumps dont go bad right.?

where is this regulator? its a 84 FB GSL its just a mechanical pump driven by a chain

You would need to take the front cover off, at least yet. I'd start be removing the front cover oil hard tube that runs to the oil cooler. I know it's a pain, but would give direct access to the to the output. Crank it over and see if oil comes out. It's going to be messy but you shouldn't have to have the starter run too long. Disable the spark and fuel first. If this is good, then you really narrowed it down to the tube or cooler. If no oil, then it's the pickup tube, regulator, or pump. You would be able to inspect the pickup tube and regulator by taking the pan off. If those are OK, then the front cover needs to come off the check the oil pump.

yeah, i took the oil supply tube off last night, cranked the motor and nothing came out down by the connection. also when i tried to put oil down the cooler center oil would not come out of the other end of the oil supply line going to the front of the motor. if the pump is bad what should i look for, also with the pick up tube or regulator. whats the regulator look like? would the pickup tube be plugged? how does it fail?

can i remove the front cover without pulling the motor? just take the radiator and stuff out that is in the way? obviously i would have to remove the motor mount as it mounts through the front cover. so support the front of the engine?

Removing the front cover while the engine is in the car is tricky. You have to depress the clutch and hold it all the way down with a board. This is because the torrington bearing can slip. I really don't like doing it this way.

Did you remove the hard oil line from the front of the engine and test to see if oil came out of the front cover connection while cranking?

yes i removed the oil line last night and cranked the motor, no oil came out. from the front of the motor. as far as the cover is concerned i will have to pull the motor as my clutch is non existent it needs a slave and master.

how do i know if the oil pressure regulator is bad, what does this do and if its bad will it still allow oil through. also what should i be looking for on the pickup tube? i started all this because i had no oil pressure at the port where the pressure sensor is located, i was using a mechanical pressure gauge screwed in to the port. engine runs good but glad i check this first. i only ran the engine for 40 seconds

I can't speak to the oil pressure regulator and if it will bypass.

For the pickup tube, make sure it is connected and has a gasket and the screen is clean. If that is OK, my next guess would be oil pump.

what goes bad in the oil pump, what do i need to look for. ? i know when i installed the pick up tube, i cleaned it made sure the screen was clean and im pretty sure i installed a gasket with it. how do i know if the regulator is bad? ive checked the FSM and it is not clear, doesnt tell me anything

Just curious as to how you know the gauge and sending unit are good, yet you have no indication of oil pressure? I don't remember if you mentioned in one of you other post but was your engine recently rebuilt? If so did you verify the presence of, or lack of oil pressure by removing the oil sending unit and connecting a mechanical oil pressure gauge after the rebuild to verify oil pressure is present? If you did, and I didn't see it, excuse my butting in, I have been following your journey and I know KansasCityREPU has helping in this endeavor and I always learn a lot from his posts. I know you don't want to to pull your engine so If you haven't checked for oil pressure with a mechanical I advise you do it before making any other moves, just a thought.

This might help to understand the oil flow in a 12A and to think about what can cause a no oil pressure issue.

There really isn't much to fail to at least see oil flow from the front cover. I'm going to use the terms in this pic.

1. Oil strainer.
2. Oil pressure relief valve (it has a by-pass back into the pan)
3. Oil pump
4. Front cover outlet

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8216521eb6.jpg

Senior Chief I have verified that the dash gauges work by grounding each one and seeing that they Peg I also attached a mechanical pressure gauge to the output where the sending unit connects to the mechanical gauge shows zero oil pressure also when I disconnect the metal oil line running from the Beehive oil cooler then turn the motor over no oil comes out of the front stack

Kc, how does the pressure regulator fail what am I looking for to see if it has failed

Also pineapple racing told me to check the key way on the oil pump it could have slipped out of position but that would entail taking the front cover off and removing the engine

I will work on it this weekend and let you guys know what I found out

at any time did u remove the oil pickup tube? is the gasket in place?

Engibe was disassembled when I got it so yea and maybe?

I just went out to the barn and checked a couple of things. The pickup tube bolts to the front iron. Oil then goes through the oil pump to the regulator, then out the front cover. The front cover oil regulator cannot cause a no-oil condition. The spring heats up and this causes more oil pressure but will not stop flow. When the oil is cold, the regulator is not engaged, and you get max volume at low pressure.

Good call on the key. They are pros.

So if my pickup tube is connected and tight then its the oil pump? Meaning motor pull. I had a hell of a time mating the motor and trans even out of the car. Juat disnt go together easily. Don't want to have to deal with that again ugh

pull the trans with the motor?
you actually could do it in the car, but i'm not sure it would be any easier

so i had one where the damn oil pump just wouldn't prime, which is weird. i had to take the oil cooler hose off the front cover and pour oil into it, and then it worked after that. with a 12A you have that pipe.
and then it is really easy to have the oil pump key not seat right when you put the sprocket on. i like to put the sprocket on with the pump off of the engine, that way i KNOW its right. you can put the pump on with the sprocket attached

good luck, not a fun job

Yeah not sure what I'm going to do yet, I couls remove the banjo from the oil cooler and pour down that way. When I put the pump on I'm pretry sure that they key was in the right position, however I don't remember putting oil in the pump before I installed it. I'm sure the pump is on right, maybe it just won't prime for aome reason. If I had a working clutch, rwmoving front cover in the car wouldbt be a problem but I can't put pressure on the stack without the clutch working

Is it correct that you don't have a clutch because the clutch hydraulics are not functioning right now? If that's the case and you don't want to fix that first, then you could fake it...

Take the slave cylinder off of the bell housing and put its bolts back in. Then wedge a properly sized piece of wood or whatever between the shift fork and the bolts to fully depress the clutch.

Or just fix the clutch hydraulics, because you have to do that anyway and do what the other post suggested: depressing the clutch from the inside with a piece of wood against the pedal.

Edit: sorry not shift fork, throw out bearing fork.