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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:15 PM
  #26  
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Took the car out for the second time last weekend. She ran great, but definitely needs some suspension work. I think the bushings are probably all dry-rotted. And yes, she does get her own climate-controlled garage at the self-storage facility. Too much risk of scratches and child-induced bicycle accidents at home.

(fog lights installed by previous owner, will be removing soon)
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alpha and omega
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #27  
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Looking to order new bushings from RB. Can anyone explain to me the difference between the "4-Link bushing kit" and the "Watts link bushing kit"? Both are listed as parts that fit the 1984 model.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:08 AM
  #28  
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I think the WATTS is just that: for the WATTS link that run _parallel_ to the axle; whereas the "4-Link" would be for the 2 pairs of suspension arms that run parallel to (and attach to) the chassis (from-to-back). Capish?

BTW I know numerous folks here warn about NOT replacing certain bushings in the LINKS as they can cause some annoying binding-action in the suspension. Others will have to chime in here for specifics…

Car looks Beaut BTW! nice.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by zerozoku
Took the car out for the second time last weekend. She ran great, but definitely needs some suspension work. I think the bushings are probably all dry-rotted. And yes, she does get her own climate-controlled garage at the self-storage facility. Too much risk of scratches and child-induced bicycle accidents at home.

(fog lights installed by previous owner, will be removing soon)


alpha and omega
Love the color combo. I want to buy your car. It would be easy. I go to Pittsburgh, give you cash, then drive it home to Cincy. What do you say? I need this car in my collection.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #30  
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Haha!! Well money talks, and I'm listening, but it would have to be a lot of money cuz i really like this car.

Ive never done suspension work before and am feeling overwhelmed before even starting the work. I have no idea what parts I need to order. Maybe someone can point me towards a good thread?

7aull - Thanks very much for the help. Still not sure though. I've been browsing RB's bushing kits, however there seems to be more than one kit that fits my car?
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #31  
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[QUOTE=zerozoku;11838755]Haha!! Well money talks, and I'm listening, but it would have to be a lot of money cuz i really like this car.

Tell me what you would sell it for. I'm listening.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 01:20 AM
  #32  
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$10,000 firm!!!
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 04:44 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by zerozoku
Haha!! Well money talks, and I'm listening, but it would have to be a lot of money cuz i really like this car.

Ive never done suspension work before and am feeling overwhelmed before even starting the work. I have no idea what parts I need to order. Maybe someone can point me towards a good thread?

7aull - Thanks very much for the help. Still not sure though. I've been browsing RB's bushing kits, however there seems to be more than one kit that fits my car?
Several manufacturers I imagine.
Recommend you start a new thread to get better feedback, since this is getting buried in your Announcement….

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:35 AM
  #34  
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Tokico Illumina Shocks, Mazda

Struts ^^

and Coilovers

Ground Control - Coilover Conversion kit, 79-85 Mazda RX7 Front WELD (pair)

Their camber plats are pretty spendy but this is what I am going for on mine.

I believe Racing Beat sells the bushing you need.

I am not 100% sure but I think Energy Suspension also sells bushings for a good deal too. you Just have to look for the correct ones

http://www.energysuspension.com/products.html

I hope this helps a little

~Tim

Last edited by Rx7_fanofspeed; Dec 5, 2014 at 06:36 AM. Reason: Forgot to add link for ES..
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:46 AM
  #35  
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^^Sorry, but Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas for the front. Anyone have extensive experience with KYB? Are they decent?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:53 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1
^^Sorry, but Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas for the front. Anyone have extensive experience with KYB? Are they decent?
Oh? it says they have them in stock on the site.
Maybe past info for me.

I will have to check to see if they are still there..

Thanks for the input regardless.

~Tim
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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Most of the emissions controls are wires and hoses. Swapping the cats for a modern, efficient one makes sense, but removing or defeating the rest of it just because it is complex is just a refusal to learn, not a real improvement. That's a part of the popularity of the GM LSx V8s, keeping them emissions legal is simpler and easier than ANY other engine that can make even half the power they can. They don't need a mile of vacuum hoses and 5 pounds of vacuum valves. And those valves can go bad after replacements are discontinued. Most folks won't even undertake to replace all their vacuum hoses one at a time to correct driveability issues.
I can understand wanting to find another MPG or 2, and I understand wanting more than 105 HP, but nothing less than 200 HP will satisfy 99% of drivers. Anything less is for people who can't afford 200. So trying to go from 105 to maybe 130 makes no sense to me. It'll still be frustratingly slow. It might get another MPG when cruising, but it'll be using more fuel when trying to accelerate with traffic around you. There went the cruising MPG improvement from the exhaust flowing better. It's a wash.
Sell it for maybe $ 500 more than you paid, then buy a beat-up car and a mountain of parts to improve it. It's more fun to mod, then it's less frustrating to drive and live with.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by economiser
Most of the emissions controls are wires and hoses. Swapping the cats for a modern, efficient one makes sense, but removing or defeating the rest of it just because it is complex is just a refusal to learn, not a real improvement. That's a part of the popularity of the GM LSx V8s, keeping them emissions legal is simpler and easier than ANY other engine that can make even half the power they can. They don't need a mile of vacuum hoses and 5 pounds of vacuum valves. And those valves can go bad after replacements are discontinued. Most folks won't even undertake to replace all their vacuum hoses one at a time to correct driveability issues.
I can understand wanting to find another MPG or 2, and I understand wanting more than 105 HP, but nothing less than 200 HP will satisfy 99% of drivers. Anything less is for people who can't afford 200. So trying to go from 105 to maybe 130 makes no sense to me. It'll still be frustratingly slow. It might get another MPG when cruising, but it'll be using more fuel when trying to accelerate with traffic around you. There went the cruising MPG improvement from the exhaust flowing better. It's a wash.
Sell it for maybe $ 500 more than you paid, then buy a beat-up car and a mountain of parts to improve it. It's more fun to mod, then it's less frustrating to drive and live with.
I've just gotta say, that made absolutely no sense at all. Are you saying that I'm better off sticking with the factory exhaust? Simply because 20HP gain is a waste? Seriously?

I cant think of any reason why you shouldnt install a performance exhaust on just about any motorized vehicle. OEM exhausts are designed to make the EPA happy, not for performace. Besides, most people would argue that removing that cat on an FB will improve engine life, and prevent future breakdowns.

This is getting a little ridiculous. I can understand why many of you would want the car to be kept original.....but even the exhaust has to be kept stock??!?!?!!

To everyone else, thanks for your help with the suspension questions. On RB, I found the tokiko illumina fronts, but the rears are sold out. Probably gonna go with the KYB rears.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:53 PM
  #39  
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update: Im gonna start a new thread in the projects section. I always appreciate everyone's help and suggestions. I will post my current plans for the vehicle, which will be much more conservative than my original plans.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #40  
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I was considering starting a build thread, but since this really isn't a build, I figured I would just continue this thread as is. I will continue to post my progress and more pics to come. Will definitely have more questions so thank you all in advance for your help.

Please note however, that I do indeed plan on making some mods to this car. If this bothers you, your concerns are noted. These mods will not be significant, and will all be reverse-able. That being said, my goal in mind is to simply allow the engine to perform to its full potential. Update the old ignition system, remove useless EPA junk, eliminate some unnecessary parts that may affect reliability. I dont care about MPG, nor do I plan to race this car. This is just my sunny day weekend ride that I want to enjoy when I can. She wont be driven much, and as you can tell I care a great deal about her.

My first two little projects are to do the exhaust and the suspension. Also, I've decided to keep the nikki. May consider doing the mechanical secondaries mod. I just picked up a spare nikki for cheap on ebay so I can fiddle without taking the car apart.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Rx7_fanofspeed
Oh? it says they have them in stock on the site.
Maybe past info for me.

I will have to check to see if they are still there..

Thanks for the input regardless.

~Tim
My bad, sorry. I have a '79 so was looking at if from that perspective
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 03:59 PM
  #42  
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10 grand is too steep for my blood but I will say this, don't feel bad about upgrades. It's a great car to drive and enjoy. I daily drive my se all summer long. I am actually going to sell my GTUs to buy an SA. I've never owned one so...
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 07:41 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Red95FD
10 grand is too steep for my blood but I will say this, don't feel bad about upgrades. It's a great car to drive and enjoy. I daily drive my se all summer long. I am actually going to sell my GTUs to buy an SA. I've never owned one so...
Too high? That was the idea, haha. Thanks for the nice words though, my feeling exactly

Just picked up this new muffler. Dont worry, I will be running a pre-silencer. How loud do you think it will be paired up with the RB header and pre-silencer???
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:02 AM
  #44  
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I think it'll be kinda loud. Try it. If you think it's too much put a Magnapack after the RB silencer. I did that with the Borla and it sounded beautiful.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 09:05 AM
  #45  
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Just keep the interior/exterior looking stock and mod the hell out of anything todo with performance or handling.

My SA looks completely stock down to the waffles and the interior is really nice as well. Now look at the mods
in my sig. Last time it was dynoed it came it at 134HP at the wheels. Not bad for a 12A ( that was with the Dellorto
and the exhaust before I went to the RN SP system. Now its got a Fat Nikki and the RB SP. Has a lot more grunt
down low and across the rev range and revs much quicker to 7K. I suspect maybe some add HP or at least
a diff torque curve now. Need to hit a dyno again.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:30 PM
  #46  
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I like the look of the RB muffler. Keeps the stock look. I like to do what tg farrell does, keep them looking stock and make them as quick as possible. Very clean
I've tried modding suspensions but I don't like the stiff ride so they stay stock.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Just keep the interior/exterior looking stock and mod the hell out of anything todo with performance or handling.

My SA looks completely stock down to the waffles and the interior is really nice as well. Now look at the mods
in my sig. Last time it was dynoed it came it at 134HP at the wheels. Not bad for a 12A ( that was with the Dellorto
and the exhaust before I went to the RN SP system. Now its got a Fat Nikki and the RB SP. Has a lot more grunt
down low and across the rev range and revs much quicker to 7K. I suspect maybe some add HP or at least
a diff torque curve now. Need to hit a dyno again.

I totally agree, except I do plan on putting some different wheels on, but I will keep the stock ones of course.

Did you do the mods to your nikki yourself? Or did you purchase it from someone/somewhere? I heard there are some members on this forum that perform those services? Im willing to drop some $$$ on this car to make it right, and Im not sure if I trust myself with modding the carb.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #48  
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Walk don't run

I'm new to this club too. I'm not new to rx7's. On my third and it's totally original 85se. I'm a purist but I'd say take your time, read, consume knowledge. The RB exhaust is the first add I'd make. And keep that old exhaust and store it properly. Then I'd go to wires, plugs, cap, rotor etc. tune up! With the low miles I'd keep the stock carb for now. Later you can beef it up with a new carb system. Whatever you do just drive it and enjoy it and keep anything you take off if it. You'll be glad you did later. It's a collectable now and deserves serious respect for future generations. Hell I can enjoy mine just sitting in the driveway with a beer in my hand and gazing at it.!!! They look great and look fast sitting still!! Congrats to you and your new "baby doll"!!!
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #49  
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What a beauty. I've owned and commuted with a couple 84-85 12A's and I went the modded route. AC removal, rats nest removal, Nikki Carb Mod - mechanical secondaries, full emissions removal, full RB exhaust with cat delete, full RB suspension, and 15x7 Konig Rewinds.

Looking back some was good and some I wished I didnt. All of the suspension upgrades were well worth it. The carb mods and exhaust was fun but made it loud and smelly. My wife hated riding in it.

I think most people here appreciate the gem you found and I respect you for taking people's opinions seriously. But in the end it's your car that you paid for so have fun but respect the history that you have in this very clean representation of a nice FB.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #50  
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I'd recommend as stated above, do what can be undone, you may realize and appreciate the value of it being unmolested later and will help if/when you sold it to maintain that value
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