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Kind of scary, adding up a parts list for appraisal

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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Kind of scary, adding up a parts list for appraisal

It's kind of freaking me out a bit seeing how much money I have actually put into my FB. I compiled a list of most (can't remember them all) of the parts on my car. Looks like I am about at the $40, 000 dollars american, remember this doesn't include the fact I paid duty on most of the parts as they crossed the border and frieght on large items.

This also doesn't include all the time for labour, body work, paint, tint, alignment, tuning. I hope to never sell this car after knowing that resale value would be a complete joke. Scary how fast the parts list adds up though.

Here is my list, like I said not complete and some things are just quick estimates on the pricing... Just want a good estimate for when an appraiser looks at it for insurance purposes.


Body/Chassis/Suspension/brakes:

SCCA replica widebody kit $1600
Turbo whale tail spoiler $390
SA front bumper $50
SA cowelling (1 wiper nozzle) $20
CCW rims front and rear 17x10 and 17x12 street model $2600
Nitto 555 - 255/40/17 front tires $256
Nitto 555R drag radials - 315/35/17 rear tires $355
Guyon racing modified roll bar $500
Racing beat front springs (going to goto respeed coilovers...) $106
Tokico hp "blues" all around $236
Respeed spherical control arm bushings $100
Respeed spherical tension rod bushings $60
Racing beat front sway bar $135
Respeed camber plates $200
Respeed TII front big brake kit $200
Powerslot front rotors $250
Reman TII calipers (4 pot) $250
Hawk HPS front pads $70
SS braided brake lines (front + rear) $125
Hurst lineloc kit $120
Wilwood 8.8 rear end 12" rear disc brake $700
Moog heavy duty idler arm $100
New control arms $400
New tie rods inner and outer $100
CP racing strut tower bar $200
CP racing flush mount headlamp kit $500
1" roll center spacers $100
Grannysspeedshop rear adjustable springs 175 lb springs $100
Grannysspeedshop trailing arm heim links $225
Grannysspeedshop custom adjustable watts linkage $200

Drivetrain:

S5 TII engine with S4 low compression internals $2500
Pineapple racing Medium streetport intake porting
Mazdatrix Mild streetport exhaust porting
Pineapple racing rebuild kit (rebuilt by me of course) $1430
modified GSL-SE front cover, oil pan and pickup tube $200
racing beat adjustable oil pressure regulator $100
RX-8 hardened stat gears with windowed racing bearings $200
Lapped housings
Powdercoated pullies $100
Polished S5 LIM $250
Polished S5 LIM to S6 UIM adapter $200
Polished S6 UIM $200
Polished throttle body $150
Polished Greddy compression elbow $130
Polished intercooler piping $200
Polished coolant overflow $80
T60-1 turbocharger (rotaryshack) $900
Rotaryshack preturbo oil filter kit $65
Gotham racing turbo blanket $200
Greddy turbo manifold $450
720 (denso)/1680cc (kgparts) injectors $500
Greddy 47mm wastegate $1000
Greddy type RS BOV $210
KG parts fuel rails $215
Dual walbro 255 lph intank pumps $200
Barry Grant -10an 12" fuel heat sink $110
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator $140
SS braided fuel lines and fittings fuel+oil $1200
Aeromotive Y splitter $45
Restored fuel tank, with added sump cup $300
ACT Extreme pressure plate clutch kit $500
11 lb Panspeed flywheel $400
heavy duty nardi TOB $20
S5 TII transmission $400
Mazdatrix short throw shifter $175
The racing store Transmission scatter shield $275
Custom made Grannysspeedshop driveshaft $250
Granny's 8.8" ford differential conversion $2700
4.33:1 gears
31 Spline axles
driveshaft loop
new trackloc clutches
4" thick FMIC custom mounted $250
TII oil cooler with SS braided lines
Aluminum radiator $200
Black magic 180sx fan (3300 CFM) $300
FD alternator swap $150
Pineapple racing alternator relocation kit $150
Custom 4" air filter relocation $100
Magnacore 10mm spark plug wires $90
Microtech LT10s standalone with laptop adapter $900
All vacuum lines are stainless steel braided $200
Himni racing 4" downpipe $400
racing beat 3" presilencer $100
Vibrant performance 3" inlet dual 3" outlet muffler $160

Interior:

Recaro seats recovered in black leather and suede $1500
Momo 320mm "race" steering wheel $270
Razo RA113 shift **** $40
PPG glass moonroof $200
Pioneer cd player $150
Optima red top battery $180
Dual A-pillar pod $60
Innovate motorsports LM-1 wideband $300
LM1 mount $75
Innovate motorsports XD-16 display gauge $230
Autometer Fuel pressure gauge $200
Autometer boost gauge $100
Autometer coolant temp gauge $80
Autometer Oil temp gauge $120
Autometer oil pressure gauge $120
Autometer Voltage gauge $80
Pineapple racing Dual EGT gauge $250
Valentine one radar detector $400
Dell laptop
Cooling Mist vari-cool stage 2 water injection kit, dual injectors, stainless steel line upgrade $550
Gtech Pro RR $300
Greddy Profec B spec II boost controller $400
Greddy turbo timer $100
J and S knock sensor $225
200W power inverter to power the laptop $50
Painless wiring fuse box's $50
Power door locks (door locks shaved) $20
Taylor battery relocation kit mounted the battery behind the driver seat $200
200A circuit breaker wired on the + side of the battery $50
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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So, what's the total?
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 11:10 PM
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Just shy of $40, 000 USD.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 01:55 AM
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My head's still buzzing with the $5K you have in rims and a rear axle!
Don't be surprised if your insurance co. just looks at it as a 30 yr old car with about $40K worth of add-ons. Still a 30-yr-old japanese car
And if they DID offer $40K worth of insurance, hate to think what the cost would be...! Advice:
pass on the insurance, just bolt all those $$ bits into the next RX if this one gets totalled.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Actually I have a few friends with similar situations. Since the car is old enough I can get classic car insurance on it. Car gets insured for appraised value, they limit driving to 5000 km a year, but it's also only something like $500 per year.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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Yes, it's called an "agreed value" policy. Covers what you say it's worth as long as the insurance company signs off too. Higher values do cost more but they take into account how these types of vehicles are typically used and are more afordable. You have to go to a speciality insurer like Hagerty. There ARE some companies that advertise no mileage restrictions.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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Dont event want to think about how much i have spent on my car :P

Gearbox: 15 000$
Rear axle: 5000$
Engine: aprox 25 000$

+++++++++
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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^^^ Not to mention CF everything which is insane $$$!
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
^^^ Not to mention CF everything which is insane $$$!
Thats a fact

Will never sell this car as long as I'm still able to do my own descisions.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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Interesting... I tried to get a "Classic" policy last time around, but the insurance company eventually declined because the vehicle's value, based on their from-photos-only appraised value was BELOW the threshold value.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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wait so your car has to be worth soo much before you can get classic car insurance?
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:07 AM
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At least you guys can GET classic insurance - every one I've check has the:

*not available in Alaska

disclaimer.
Its like they don't think we have paved roads here! Jeez - we've had THAT since last year!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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Guess Alaska is just not the collector car meca it once was....
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FbDrift
wait so your car has to be worth soo much before you can get classic car insurance?
At least with AAA, yeah. $6000 appraised minimum was what I was told.

On the other end of the scale from the OP, after 20 years of ownership, I'd be shocked if I've spent a total of more than $12,000 on my car for parts & maintenance, including original purchase.

Some day, I should go thru the receipts book (2 inches thick by now) and add them all up.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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Man, I'm going to have to look into some other insurance company. I need classic insurance so I can stop worrying about smog
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Guess Alaska is just not the collector car meca it once was....
Yea , but the upside is STU can ignore all those " Fabbing-your-own-cold-air-intake" threads
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Guess Alaska is just not the collector car meca it once was....
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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**** thats $35,543
i got bored but damnnn thats alot
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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My question is where did u get ur money? if i had money like you, my rx7 wuld be just like urs, just yellow. hehe
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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and i was also looking at the classic tag too, its not like im gonna drive it 2000 miles a year. thats waht my neon is for
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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Right after highschool I went into college to be a mechanic. From the age of 19-21 I pretty much made $3500 take home a month, only real bills were $1000 a month for rent/savings fund for a house, car insurance, and the occasional tools.

I must admit now after buying a house money is very tight, currently the girlfriend is going to school so I am paying pretty much all the bills single handed. But I have basically everything I need for it to be finished so I am very happy.

Basically just over time I added up lots of parts, things that I figured would work the way I wanted.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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let me know how you do on the Insurance Dan.
I got alot in my car too.( well,heart and soul,.and as much money as I could stick into it,being retired).
I can't have assets over 5K..and I got more into the car than that.
The Insurance company wants Receipts of the Stuff that I have on the car to prove it is worth the amount.I bought alot off of Guys on Forum.
I may just hand them my Paypal Statement..lol!
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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I sure will, just need a couple of last things and I am going to have an appraiser come to my work (working at a car dealership makes this alot easier to get someone quick). But I may have the same issue as you having bought alot of stuff slightly used, one off, and modified to work items.

I just want a fair price set, so I can get classic car insurance for full replacement value. What scares me the most is the fact that with projects like mine... someone will make a mistake and end up driving right into it, and I want to be covered if that happens.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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I bouht hagerty insurance for my sa. It's covers every where except on the track and in grid.
I sent in pic's of the car from all sides the motor and the interior. and then totaled my reciepts plus I added in parts that I bought used or that I didn't have reciepts for anymore. I came up with a price of about $12,000. And I am paying around $220-$250 a year. The rx7 is also old enough in Ohio to get Historical plates which was a one time cost of $25 and are good for 50 YEARS.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by eprx799
I bouht hagerty insurance for my sa. It's covers every where except on the track and in grid.
I sent in pic's of the car from all sides the motor and the interior. and then totaled my reciepts plus I added in parts that I bought used or that I didn't have reciepts for anymore. I came up with a price of about $12,000. And I am paying around $220-$250 a year. The rx7 is also old enough in Ohio to get Historical plates which was a one time cost of $25 and are good for 50 YEARS.
i checked out hagerty and i think thats what im gonna go with too. yeah $30/month for insurance doesnt suck. being 19 progressive, geiko, allstate, etc. wanted to charge me 130/month. for liability. im not gonna drive it a whole lot. i figure i have now put well over $2000 into it now, however, i cant really prove any of it because i dont have many reciepts since most of my transactions were cash off craigslist. all 3 engines lol and 2 transmissions.
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