Hygrade carb kit
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hygrade carb kit
I have the Hygrade carb kit, carb pulled and I'm getting ready to rebuild it, I just saw a post saying there is a problem with the float needles and seats in the hygrade kit? is there a remedy for this other than just re-using the old ones? I'm pretty sure they are stuck in the old carb. are there any videos or tutorials other than the factory carb book and haynes manuals? thanks
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
The general complaint is the needle ends can be poorly burnished (not smooth enough) and consequently stick. So maybe cleaning the old ones? That might have the added benefit of not screwing too much with the float levels, which people say can be fiddly to adjust.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
understood, but it looks like the new ones have some kind of darker coating on them at the tips (point) of the needle. perhaps to remedy the past problem? IDK, I guess I'll make that decision once I'm into it. last time I rebuilt one the needle was very worn. not expecting that on a car w 21000 miles, but anything is possible I s'pose.
#4
Full Member
I used the new needles/seats from the Hygrade kit against everyone's advice on this forum. I did lightly smooth them with sandpaper, and applied the tiniest coating of vaseline when I reassembled the carb. Then before installing the top of the carb, I cycled each need valve/float assembly 50+ times by hand. At first I could feel them sticking, but it got WAY better after cycling.
After ~1000 miles of driving, I haven't had any issues with flooding due to sticking needle valves (knock on wood). So it IS possible to use the aftermarket needles and seats!
After ~1000 miles of driving, I haven't had any issues with flooding due to sticking needle valves (knock on wood). So it IS possible to use the aftermarket needles and seats!
The following 2 users liked this post by cmnork:
Maxwedge (10-30-20),
Rx7fb spirit r (03-28-22)
#5
Full Member
I used the new needles/seats from the Hygrade kit against everyone's advice on this forum. I did lightly smooth them with sandpaper, and applied the tiniest coating of vaseline when I reassembled the carb. Then before installing the top of the carb, I cycled each need valve/float assembly 50+ times by hand. At first I could feel them sticking, but it got WAY better after cycling.
After ~1000 miles of driving, I haven't had any issues with flooding due to sticking needle valves (knock on wood). So it IS possible to use the aftermarket needles and seats!
After ~1000 miles of driving, I haven't had any issues with flooding due to sticking needle valves (knock on wood). So it IS possible to use the aftermarket needles and seats!
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; 10-30-20 at 09:42 AM.
The following users liked this post:
chirmstream (04-20-22)
#7
keep it original!!
iTrader: (3)
what do you all think of the thin paper-like gasket that is for between the throttle body and the main body?
I just took off my carb and found the gasket there was much thicker than this paper-thin gasket in the hygrade kit and I think this is what could be causing the vacuum leak I have now.
Any recommendations on better gaskets if this one in the hygrade kit is inadequate? Thanks!
I just took off my carb and found the gasket there was much thicker than this paper-thin gasket in the hygrade kit and I think this is what could be causing the vacuum leak I have now.
Any recommendations on better gaskets if this one in the hygrade kit is inadequate? Thanks!
Last edited by boyee; 03-05-22 at 11:11 PM.
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#8
Full Member
I made my own gasket with a thicker paper service kit elring and made a better seize on the problem zone as you can see
The following users liked this post:
Rx7fb spirit r (03-28-22)
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