How to prep for CA Smog???? (no answers, just Questions)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 30
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From: California
How to prep for CA Smog???? (no answers, just Questions)
What should i do to prepare for a Smog test in California? Also another question, I removed my bumper, and now the side lights wont go back into place, so i cant put it back on, will that make me fail inspection in california?
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well the good news is that California doesn't care about bumpers and lights, they ONLY care about the smog test.
the CA test is at heart deeply unfair. it was meant to build a database about how well cars were holding up from new, from an emissions perspective, but now they just sell a bunch of test equipment, and get some old cars off the road.
the really unfair part depends on where in CA you live, there are three different tests depending on the county. some have no smog at all, some have a dyno test and a visual, and some just have the visual, and the idle and 2500rpm stationary test. this last one is by far the hardest. hopefully you get a dyno test (its called enhanced), this one is the easiest, anything will pass.
so for the car, it needs to pass the visual, so this means ALL of the emissions equipment needs to be present. all 3 cats, the stupid hose between the air cleaner and exhaust manifold, everything.
once you have that, to actually PASS the tail pipe part, the air pump, and Air Control Valve need to work. there is a hose from the air control valve to the air cleaner, and basically you should be able to rev the car to about 2500rpm and no air should come out.
timing and ignition should just be stock, and idle mixture should be set to where it runs the best, and then 1/8 turn richer.
oh and the car needs to be warmed up all the way, cats work with heat. also leave the car running while you're waiting
the CA test is at heart deeply unfair. it was meant to build a database about how well cars were holding up from new, from an emissions perspective, but now they just sell a bunch of test equipment, and get some old cars off the road.
the really unfair part depends on where in CA you live, there are three different tests depending on the county. some have no smog at all, some have a dyno test and a visual, and some just have the visual, and the idle and 2500rpm stationary test. this last one is by far the hardest. hopefully you get a dyno test (its called enhanced), this one is the easiest, anything will pass.
so for the car, it needs to pass the visual, so this means ALL of the emissions equipment needs to be present. all 3 cats, the stupid hose between the air cleaner and exhaust manifold, everything.
once you have that, to actually PASS the tail pipe part, the air pump, and Air Control Valve need to work. there is a hose from the air control valve to the air cleaner, and basically you should be able to rev the car to about 2500rpm and no air should come out.
timing and ignition should just be stock, and idle mixture should be set to where it runs the best, and then 1/8 turn richer.
oh and the car needs to be warmed up all the way, cats work with heat. also leave the car running while you're waiting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Can't add much to the above except to say that the carb (if not FI) needs to be clean and properly adjusted, and the charcoal canister has to be present, and not clogged. They will also want to test the tank evap control system - - if they can find it (few smog techs have any clue on 1st-gen cars).
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: California
Can't add much to the above except to say that the carb (if not FI) needs to be clean and properly adjusted, and the charcoal canister has to be present, and not clogged. They will also want to test the tank evap control system - - if they can find it (few smog techs have any clue on 1st-gen cars).
Good luck.
Good luck.