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1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!

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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 11:17 PM
  #1  
Cheo Vazquez's Avatar
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1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!

Hi, guys, I'm completely new to the forum. So I just acquired my neighbors 1985 rx7 GSL SE. The car has been sitting for 12 years now. The last time it ran was in 2004. The battery is dead and the clutch sinks to the floor when I depress it, it doesn't come back up. I was planning to siphon the gas, recharge the battery, change the oil, replace spark plugs, and also use some fogging oil in the spark plug hole. My neighbor says the car ran good, he just never drove it. He says the starter was an issue but the car is manual so I'm thinking I could hill start it. Is there anything else I should do before starting the car? Also is if the starter is the issue, is hill starting a bad idea for a rotary? This car has 85k miles and he did all services at Mazda. I want to hear from you guys and get some additional advice before I turn the key on this car. Attached are some photos I took today.
Attached Thumbnails 1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!-mazda1.jpg   1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!-mazda2.jpg   1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!-mazda3.jpg   1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!-mazda4.png   1985 RX7 GSL SE Sitting 12 years HELP!!!-mazda5.png  

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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 12:07 AM
  #2  
Kdo58's Avatar
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There is numerous thread that are similar, the usual answer it's to pull the spark plugs out , put oil in holes and turn the engine over by hand, 19 mm socket is needed to do this.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 03:59 AM
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hey Cheo - welcome and congrats on the find. There may be some specific issues or "gotchas" with the fuel injected 13B -SE RX7s. I will let those owners add their thoughts. As Kdo sez, you do want to be sure the engine will spin freely before (!) you try to start it. If motors sit a long time with no proper long-term storage prep, then compressed seals, etc may need to be "coaxed" into popping up into position to give some compression. I have found Seafoam to be excellent for cleaning up inside engine and fuel system. That AND some oil would be helpful to loosen things up.

Likewise it is great added into the fuel tank with any new fuel you add there. And a new fuel filter would be smart.

Yes, once you are happy the engine is actually turning, and there is spark, then the hill-starts have been an excellent way to start a stubborn motor.

I think you are going to find all sorts of leaks points from dry seals, so be prepared and eyeball the engine AND gauges to make sure something hasn't failed once running.

Coolant will be sludge, and the crap deposited in the rad and block passages should be flushed out. I'd pull the rad and have a rad shop clean it and pressure test it. As you may know, rotaries are toast without a strong cooling system. Figure all -new hoses, including (!!!!) the interior heater hoses (I am referring to the ones that enter the firewall inside the engine compartment). Oil and filter of course.

'Luck!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 07:45 AM
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All new filters, air, oil, and fuel, fresh oil and a coolant flush are required of course. Much needed will be new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I would replace the belts and hoses and inspect and replace the vacuum lines. The 84-85 RX-7's have a 14mm gas tank drain plug on the left side of the tank so no need to siphon any gas. I would agree that a can of seafoam should be run through the fuel as well. You'll want to clean the throttle body and service the throttle body shafts with some lubricant. You may have stuck 5th and 6th ports unfortunately. Check to make sure the actuator tube is bolted to the intake manifold and connected to the main converter. Without the tube in place the 5th and 6th ports will not function and you will have little top end power.

You'll also want to replace the tires and inspect the brakes. If there is excessive rust buildup on the rotors, replace the pads and rotors and service the caliper bracket. Inspect the engine for any old leaks and address those as needed. Replace the trans and differential oil, remembering to add some limited slip additive in the differential. I us a produce made by BG called LSII. Works amazing and I've used it in my cars for some time. Just replaced the fluids in my Corvette and used it in the rear diff. You'll want to consider replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder as well and performing a brake fluid flush.

You will also want to replace the battery, clean the cable ends and clean the grounds in the engine bay. I would also inspect the lighting system for burned bulbs and check the fuse panel for any blown fuses. Inspect and replace any weatherstripping as needed and service the A/C if you so choose. Enjoy the GSL-SE. Its an amazing and unique animal!

Last edited by mazdaverx713b; Jul 9, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 12:19 PM
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The clutch issue is either a dry system (no fluid) or a failed master or slave cylinder, or both. I'd recommend just replacing both if you can afford it, as if one has gone, the other will likely soon follow.

At an absolute minimum, replace your brake fluid entirely by fully bleeding the system - - 12 years of sitting & that old fluid has absorbed a lot of water and will likely give you a rude surprise the first time things get hot.

It may make economic sense to see if the engine will run before doing this, but for your sake, don't actually drive the car without attending to the hydraulics. Oh, and make sure the e-brake is adjusted, just in case. You don't want your hill-start attempt to end up in a pile-up.

Congrats and good luck!
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