Help me buy an FB
#1
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Location: Boston,MA
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Help me buy an FB
I recently found an 85 with 39k original miles. Interior looks immaculate as well as the exterior. And it is listed for around $4000. Was just wondering what to look out for when buying. This would be my first rotary as well as my first Mazda, and I do already have a daily so this would be a summer/project car and would only be driven 3-5 months out of the year, if I'm lucky. Any amount of information helps, things like general maintenance, common issues, etc. I want to hear it all.
#2
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Sounds like a wonderful deal if it's as advertised, runs well and is RUST FREE.
Rust is always an issue, especially in Massachusetts. You should give it a thorough exam for rust.
A frequent problem spot, and one that often goes undetected, is rust around the rear wheel wells, which sometimes doesn't show from the outside.
The owner should be agreeable to pulling the rear storage compartments and letting you take a good look from the inside, which is where it will definitely show.
If you just pull one storage compartment, pull the passenger side, where road salt takes the biggest toll.
If he/she doesn't want you to pull the compartment, there's probably rust underneath.
Rust is always an issue, especially in Massachusetts. You should give it a thorough exam for rust.
A frequent problem spot, and one that often goes undetected, is rust around the rear wheel wells, which sometimes doesn't show from the outside.
The owner should be agreeable to pulling the rear storage compartments and letting you take a good look from the inside, which is where it will definitely show.
If you just pull one storage compartment, pull the passenger side, where road salt takes the biggest toll.
If he/she doesn't want you to pull the compartment, there's probably rust underneath.
#3
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If it has no rust and run's well, you can't go wrong for that price. But beware that even with low mileage, a lot of things may need to be replaced on age alone (item's that rot with age such as door and window seals, engine and brake hoses etc.)
#4
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Agreed - good price if mileage is as stated and it looks it. We are all prob presuming this is a 5-spd version. Auto-tranny would knock it down $$.
If the current owner has had it a while, ask to see maintenance records. when was the last time it was driven? It can be just as bad having a car sit a long time vs regular use and higher mileage, so it can be a mixed blessing. For e.g. if its been sitting the last 10yrs, unless correctly stored to begin with, you can have a boat-load of issues to get it back to running condition, in spite the shine!
As too rust, I would add these areas to check:
-if sunroof equipped, lift off the panel then peel up the weatherstrip on the roof to be sure no rust there (strip removes and fits back on easily)
-lift weather strip on lower edge of rear hatch. Rust prone area, esp the corners
-around battery tray (this is removable for repair)
-around firewall at brake and clutch masters: rust here = leaking units.
-bottom of doors on inside. They have drains that may be plugged, and then the seam starts to rust out where inner and outer panels are welded.
Surface rust in any of these areas is almost guaranteed. That is not a deal breaker but its perforation you want to confirm. You can drop a couple of Thou$and on rust repair at the blink of an eye, so pay accordingly.
Engine:
I'd have a mazda dealer do a compression check for health. Even a failing engine can run great once started. It requires a special compression-reader to do this. And once there, you can get it up on a hoist and have a look at the underside. $100-ish well spent...
If you DO get it, my advice on this is - unless the owner can provide documents to prove recent replacement - consider changing EVERY fluid, EVERY rubber hose (esp cooling/heater) immediately, just so you can start with a clean slate.
Sounds like it might be a great opportunity. Good Luck. Post some pics once you have it.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
If the current owner has had it a while, ask to see maintenance records. when was the last time it was driven? It can be just as bad having a car sit a long time vs regular use and higher mileage, so it can be a mixed blessing. For e.g. if its been sitting the last 10yrs, unless correctly stored to begin with, you can have a boat-load of issues to get it back to running condition, in spite the shine!
As too rust, I would add these areas to check:
-if sunroof equipped, lift off the panel then peel up the weatherstrip on the roof to be sure no rust there (strip removes and fits back on easily)
-lift weather strip on lower edge of rear hatch. Rust prone area, esp the corners
-around battery tray (this is removable for repair)
-around firewall at brake and clutch masters: rust here = leaking units.
-bottom of doors on inside. They have drains that may be plugged, and then the seam starts to rust out where inner and outer panels are welded.
Surface rust in any of these areas is almost guaranteed. That is not a deal breaker but its perforation you want to confirm. You can drop a couple of Thou$and on rust repair at the blink of an eye, so pay accordingly.
Engine:
I'd have a mazda dealer do a compression check for health. Even a failing engine can run great once started. It requires a special compression-reader to do this. And once there, you can get it up on a hoist and have a look at the underside. $100-ish well spent...
If you DO get it, my advice on this is - unless the owner can provide documents to prove recent replacement - consider changing EVERY fluid, EVERY rubber hose (esp cooling/heater) immediately, just so you can start with a clean slate.
Sounds like it might be a great opportunity. Good Luck. Post some pics once you have it.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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