Heavy/memory steer from '85 P/S box
Heavy/memory steer from '85 P/S box
Can you guys help me diagnose my issue with memory steer (if you let go of wheel mid corner, the wheel will not move)? Car is 85 GSL with Racing Beat springs and Tokico Blue shocks recently installed but the problem has been there since I purchased the car a few months ago. It has 24,000 miles and very few repair slips. Looks to just have been driven sparingly in fair weather over the last 31 years. What I have done so far...
Checked tire pressure
Replaced idler arm with MOOG replacement
No play in tierods or ball joints or bearings
Replaced strut tops
Got alignment...
Camber: -0.1 / +0.0
Caster: +3.2 / +2.9
Toe: +0.13 / +0.11
Total: +0.24
Technician said I was all good but after coming home to check the numbers the caster seems low. Which way can I turn the strut tops to resolve that...since the techs didn't seem to understand it could be done.
Also I disconnected the pitman from the steering linkage. The wheel still has quite a bit of friction and slushy uneven spinning with the car running and with the car off. I tried loosening the shaft screw on top to see if maybe previous owner over tightened but that didn't free things up. I don't know if it's the caster issue, or something like the box, pump, control valve, type of fluid in the system, etc. any help would be appreciated.
Checked tire pressure
Replaced idler arm with MOOG replacement
No play in tierods or ball joints or bearings
Replaced strut tops
Got alignment...
Camber: -0.1 / +0.0
Caster: +3.2 / +2.9
Toe: +0.13 / +0.11
Total: +0.24
Technician said I was all good but after coming home to check the numbers the caster seems low. Which way can I turn the strut tops to resolve that...since the techs didn't seem to understand it could be done.
Also I disconnected the pitman from the steering linkage. The wheel still has quite a bit of friction and slushy uneven spinning with the car running and with the car off. I tried loosening the shaft screw on top to see if maybe previous owner over tightened but that didn't free things up. I don't know if it's the caster issue, or something like the box, pump, control valve, type of fluid in the system, etc. any help would be appreciated.
To fix the left caster to match the right you can move the strut top so the eccentric part of the mount is farthest forward position. You can also move the right strut tower to correct the caster on the right side. Its been a while since I've aligned my car so I can't remember what factory spec is, but it makes little difference as long as the numbers left vs right match.
Caster won't cause a memory steer issue. It might wander if your camber and caster are "fighting" each other.
As for your memory steer, it is most likely that your new additions are the cause.
When you tightend the new idler arm down was the steerage in a neutral position? How tight is it?
Do you have zerks fittings on any of the components? Hit them with the grease gun.
Jack up the front end and turn the wheels and tires by hand; see if you can feel any drag in the movement from left turn to right turn.
I wouldn't toss out the possibility of a bad gear in the steering box. Especially if it sat un-used for a while.
And those tech's know how to do it they are just being lazy. The computer on the alignment machine has pictures of how to adjust everything on any car they have the specs for.
Caster won't cause a memory steer issue. It might wander if your camber and caster are "fighting" each other.
As for your memory steer, it is most likely that your new additions are the cause.
When you tightend the new idler arm down was the steerage in a neutral position? How tight is it?
Do you have zerks fittings on any of the components? Hit them with the grease gun.
Jack up the front end and turn the wheels and tires by hand; see if you can feel any drag in the movement from left turn to right turn.
I wouldn't toss out the possibility of a bad gear in the steering box. Especially if it sat un-used for a while.
And those tech's know how to do it they are just being lazy. The computer on the alignment machine has pictures of how to adjust everything on any car they have the specs for.
Thanks, I performed the rotation, put them in the position for max camber max caster. Arrow pointing back and inside on both sides. Test drive didn't change anything.
Then I spent the evening changing the p/s fluid. Getting the hose off the pump was a chore. It had never been removed and was covered in rust proofing. What came out was gross. 30 year old fluid. It wasn't as thick as I was expecting but it was blacker than an overdue oil change. I performed the flush and fill per service manual.
Attachment 583432
Since I had my tools out, I loosened the screw on top of the steering box and backed it out a bunch until I could feel and hear the knocking when wiggling the wheel. Then i slowly tightened it 1/2 turn at a time until the knock went away. Locked down the outer nut and went for a test drive.
Voila! Memory steer is pretty much gone. It doesn't return to center quick, but it doesn't stick anymore. The steering is much lighter to the touch. I didn't have time to take it on the highway but at 50 mph it was driving straight without pulling.
Question: will changing the strut top to adjust camber/caster affect toe?
Then I spent the evening changing the p/s fluid. Getting the hose off the pump was a chore. It had never been removed and was covered in rust proofing. What came out was gross. 30 year old fluid. It wasn't as thick as I was expecting but it was blacker than an overdue oil change. I performed the flush and fill per service manual.
Attachment 583432
Since I had my tools out, I loosened the screw on top of the steering box and backed it out a bunch until I could feel and hear the knocking when wiggling the wheel. Then i slowly tightened it 1/2 turn at a time until the knock went away. Locked down the outer nut and went for a test drive.
Voila! Memory steer is pretty much gone. It doesn't return to center quick, but it doesn't stick anymore. The steering is much lighter to the touch. I didn't have time to take it on the highway but at 50 mph it was driving straight without pulling.
Question: will changing the strut top to adjust camber/caster affect toe?
Thanks, I performed the rotation, put them in the position for max camber max caster. Arrow pointing back and inside on both sides. Test drive didn't change anything.
Then I spent the evening changing the p/s fluid. Getting the hose off the pump was a chore. It had never been removed and was covered in rust proofing. What came out was gross. 30 year old fluid. It wasn't as thick as I was expecting but it was blacker than an overdue oil change. I performed the flush and fill per service manual.
Attachment 583432
Since I had my tools out, I loosened the screw on top of the steering box and backed it out a bunch until I could feel and hear the knocking when wiggling the wheel. Then i slowly tightened it 1/2 turn at a time until the knock went away. Locked down the outer nut and went for a test drive.
Voila! Memory steer is pretty much gone. It doesn't return to center quick, but it doesn't stick anymore. The steering is much lighter to the touch. I didn't have time to take it on the highway but at 50 mph it was driving straight without pulling.
Question: will changing the strut top to adjust camber/caster affect toe?
Then I spent the evening changing the p/s fluid. Getting the hose off the pump was a chore. It had never been removed and was covered in rust proofing. What came out was gross. 30 year old fluid. It wasn't as thick as I was expecting but it was blacker than an overdue oil change. I performed the flush and fill per service manual.
Attachment 583432
Since I had my tools out, I loosened the screw on top of the steering box and backed it out a bunch until I could feel and hear the knocking when wiggling the wheel. Then i slowly tightened it 1/2 turn at a time until the knock went away. Locked down the outer nut and went for a test drive.
Voila! Memory steer is pretty much gone. It doesn't return to center quick, but it doesn't stick anymore. The steering is much lighter to the touch. I didn't have time to take it on the highway but at 50 mph it was driving straight without pulling.
Question: will changing the strut top to adjust camber/caster affect toe?
don't do a very good job and a lot of times the equipment isn't calibrated or
maintained well. You can use the string method for toe and a good digital level
for camber/caster adjustments.
Also that moog idler arm can be stiff until its used a bit. Also helps to put the
zirk fitting in and pump it full of fresh grease. When new they have some grease
in them but can take a lot more.
Gotcha, I put the fitting in when I installed but didn't add additional grease. I'll give it a squirt next time I'm under the car. I put a similar MOOG unit on my REPU but IIRC it wasn't quite as stiff as the one for the RX7.
