rotordogg

iTrader: (4)

I just wanted to post something as an FYI to everyone dealing with rusty fuel tanks. I picked up a very nice GSL-SE a few years ago that spent 99% of its life in Texas. Rust on the car was VERY minimal but the previous owner was having tons of problems with fuel pumps only lasting a few hundred miles.

I dropped the tank and from external inspection it looked really good but inside was a different story.

I bought the POR-15 Fuel Tank Kit and spent two days following instructions and sealing the tank. I started with a gallon of acetone to remove existing fuel and large chunks of rust. I washed it out with water and then soaked it with their cleaner. I then dried it out and did the entire process of metal prep. Then dried it out completely with a vacuum cleaner on reverse, pushing air into the tank. the next day I applied the POR-15, swished it around and let it dry. 24 hours later the inside looked perfect. I filled it with gas and everything was perfect.

That was six years ago. I dropped the tank recently to restore the underbody with new rubberized spray, repair the rear end, etc. As I drained the tank it looked really yellowish orange. So I opened it up and sure enough, lots of little rust spots and even a couple areas where the POR-15 is pealing up.

I also started scraping the outside of the thank and the original rubber coating starting peeling away to reveal bad rust beneath.

I don't know if I made an error during application, or if the exterior rust that I was unaware of just made its way to the inside over the last 6 years. But I now know I must cut open the tank and do a proper cleaning, rust removal and coating.

Knowing I can't prove that I did every step perfectly and knowing I have no proof of purchase I still contacted POR-15 and asked them what I need to do to remove the old product and if they have any guarantee. The rep replied in less than hour and said they don't have a written guarantee but they do stand by the product. So he is sending me an entire new kit for free AND a gallon of stripper to remove the old product.

I'm not happy it failed so soon but I'm very happy with their customer service.

I am going to document my process of repair this time to give anyone else dealing with this a look at what I'm doing to fix it. And this way I can check it in 5 more years to see if the product really does what it claims to do.

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

While it sucks that you have to go through that again, it's fortunate that you caught it before it got any worse, and BONUS that POR-15 is standing by their product! Awesome! I'll be interested in seeing how it works out, good luck!

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Did one of my SAs with the POR Tank Kit too. Fingers crossed, it seems fine. Thanks for reporting your experience. Hope you get it sorted out! I use quite a few POR products and have always been impressed with the quality and durability...


Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

WJM ROTARIES

If you want a better tank sealer try Caswell fuel tank sealer . we use it on all our motor bike tanks and have not had a failure, but have heard and seen many failures with other tank sealers

rotordogg

iTrader: (4)

This is definitely the first time I've seen such a major breakdown of the product so hopefully it is isolated. I'll look at Caswell if this second round doesn't work.

I spent 6 hours yesterday cleaning with the Strip Gel that POR provided, wire wheel, 60 Grit sandpaper and Acetone. I couldn't get ALL of the old POR off, especially around the baffles. So I'm going to take it to a local sand blasting shop.

Here's a short video showing how bad it was and the progress thus far:

SKYDRIFTER350

Hello....I am new to Rx7's but I have been playing with motorcycles since I could ride a bike...I have always been afraid of those sealer systems...always hearing horror stories about them peeling away and making a mess.. some people I have heard, as a member here, never had a problem.

for rusty motorcycle fuel tanks there is a process with muriatic acid (pool acid) and some type of scraping device inside the tank: like nuts and bolts, bits of chain, things like that,,, shake it around (NOT TOO LONG!!!) pour it out, I believe there is something to use to neutralize the acid?? but I can't remember, perhaps just rinse with water really well. it has worked a treat for me with several old MOTO tanks....perhaps it could work for You? IDK. I'll try to find and post up a link to a write-up thread on another forum I know..

rotordogg

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Sam, I think the POR-15 kit comes with a bottle of muriatic acid. They call it "metal prep". It dissolves the rust and leaves the shiny metal etched for adhesion.

If the rust is simply removed and bare metal is left, there isn't anything to keep the rust from returning, hence the need for some kind of coating. And since POR sent me a replacement kit I might as well use it. At least this time I can document the process and check in a few years to make sure it worked.

SKYDRIFTER350

I understand You completely.....I try to keep tanks FULL, when not is use....lol...I hope the POR-15 works PERFECTLY for You.
Keep us posted as to how it works out...cause I have always been interested in that stuff....just been scared to use it.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

yep - especially when cars are stored (mine: 7mo a year in Alaska) - its critical to either _completely_ drain the tank (impossible in my 1980 - no drain) or as absolutely FULL as you can.
The idea is to eliminate the air trapped in the tank when partially full: air = condensation = rust, and it aids fuel break-down too. I add a can of SeaFoam to stabilize the gas when it goes into storage. 12 yrs ownership and doing this yearly (well, plus the original 24 yrs...) and no problem so far...

Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska

GeneticDrift

Im in the processes of usimg Por-15 on my S4 tank as well.
i never thought of cutting out the top to clean it better. But hopefully it will work
good write up