fuel cut off switch
05-27-22, 11:15 AM
#26
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...arity-1116694/
Black/yellow tracer is 12volts Brown/yellow tracer is signal from ecu.
Pic of injector connector to help you with orientation.
Some advice if i may... i see those butt/crimp connectors next to injector pigtails. You're going to want to solder and heat shrink those connections. For a roadside temporary repair those would be good to get you home. Moisture,corrosion is inherent with those crimp connectors,with corrosion comes extra resistance,voltage drop and eventually driveability problems. Soldering gets you near 0 ohms extra resistance in the connection and heat shrink makes connection weathertight.
As an alternative,if your injector wire terminals are in good shape(appear so in pic)you could release the wired terminals from your new connector and slip your original wires/terminals right into connector body. Easy peasy!
Pic of injector connector to help you with orientation.
Some advice if i may... i see those butt/crimp connectors next to injector pigtails. You're going to want to solder and heat shrink those connections. For a roadside temporary repair those would be good to get you home. Moisture,corrosion is inherent with those crimp connectors,with corrosion comes extra resistance,voltage drop and eventually driveability problems. Soldering gets you near 0 ohms extra resistance in the connection and heat shrink makes connection weathertight.
As an alternative,if your injector wire terminals are in good shape(appear so in pic)you could release the wired terminals from your new connector and slip your original wires/terminals right into connector body. Easy peasy!
05-30-22, 06:49 PM
#27
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Yes. Polarity on the injectors is critical.
It's basically a solenoid valve surrounded by fuel, such that when electromagnetic force is applied, the piston moves to open the nozzle, allowing fuel to flow. If your polarity is reversed, you won't be opening the valve, and you're likely continuing to short the system.
BeckArney makes replacement Injector Plugs for our cars, but even then, you need to know the polarity when you install them. Start there, Gary.
It's basically a solenoid valve surrounded by fuel, such that when electromagnetic force is applied, the piston moves to open the nozzle, allowing fuel to flow. If your polarity is reversed, you won't be opening the valve, and you're likely continuing to short the system.
BeckArney makes replacement Injector Plugs for our cars, but even then, you need to know the polarity when you install them. Start there, Gary.
06-02-22, 05:39 AM
#28
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Today, I got the polarity straightened out and re-soldered the connections to be sure. I now see gas on the spark plugs, but no fire. I checked to make sure I still have strong spark and it still doesn't fire. When I was cranking the engine over(with my lone wolf 2000) I decided to check the spark again and with the trailing plug out ,the lead plug fired and sputtered a little. I think that was because of the air entering the combustion chamber. I spent way too much time in the heat and called it a day. I'll be looking into figuring out why there is something stopping the intake air next.....
Last edited by Gary Crawford; 06-02-22 at 03:50 PM.
06-03-22, 12:46 PM
#31
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
You're getting closer to it, Gary! Stick with it.
The SE ignition, air, and fuel systems are all "HOT" with the key in the RUN position. START is only important to the starter solenoid. As long as the key is set to RUN, everything would be as if you were cruising down the road. Now that you have wet spark plugs, this leads me to believe you have injector pulse and Fuel Pump operation.(*barring a leaky injector). Put the Trailing Plugs back in, and give it a crank. You might just be surprised that it fires up.
The Air Flow Meter is not likely to be the cause of the problem. Most common SE No Start items are listed in posts above, so I won't restate here. However, I would suggest that being this close to a startup (*now with fuel and proven spark), you open up the Air Filter Box and take a close look in there for rat nests, leaves, etc. which could impede airflow. That's about all I can suggest without being there to look at it and put hands on it.
I'll put some more thought into this today, and will post back tonight with more suggestions. Good luck, and we're all pulling for you, Gary.
The SE ignition, air, and fuel systems are all "HOT" with the key in the RUN position. START is only important to the starter solenoid. As long as the key is set to RUN, everything would be as if you were cruising down the road. Now that you have wet spark plugs, this leads me to believe you have injector pulse and Fuel Pump operation.(*barring a leaky injector). Put the Trailing Plugs back in, and give it a crank. You might just be surprised that it fires up.
The Air Flow Meter is not likely to be the cause of the problem. Most common SE No Start items are listed in posts above, so I won't restate here. However, I would suggest that being this close to a startup (*now with fuel and proven spark), you open up the Air Filter Box and take a close look in there for rat nests, leaves, etc. which could impede airflow. That's about all I can suggest without being there to look at it and put hands on it.
I'll put some more thought into this today, and will post back tonight with more suggestions. Good luck, and we're all pulling for you, Gary.
06-04-22, 01:17 PM
#32
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
After sleeping on it, Gary - and re-reading your 2020 post above, I'm thinking you need to get a timing light on that engine and be sure the timing hasn't moved a tooth when you stabbed the new Distributor shaft in place. As you may recall, the helical cut gears on the distributor drive gear means that it's easy to get it all lined up, and at the last moment, the gear slips one tooth off as it rotates into place.
This will keep your engine from timing spark correctly, might be evident in the "sputter" you mentioned the other day, and would keep the engine from firing. Have a look at that, and it's easy to check. Post back,
This will keep your engine from timing spark correctly, might be evident in the "sputter" you mentioned the other day, and would keep the engine from firing. Have a look at that, and it's easy to check. Post back,
06-07-22, 02:09 PM
#33
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I agree about the timing. I had a cheap timing light that I got from Harbor Freight a few years ago for "just in case". Of course, it don't work. I went on ebay the other night and bought a craftsman, should be here Sat.
06-12-22, 02:34 PM
#34
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got the timing light and got that straight. I decided to take the intake off and try to actually see what the injectors are doing. No 1 sprays and nothing coming out of two. I swapped the injectors to make sure both work. The voltage of the wire leading to it was nothing, so I got to figure out where the disconnect is....
06-26-22, 04:38 PM
#36
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Specifically, you're talking about the #2 (Rear Rotor) Fuel Injector is not getting power to the injector, correct? In other words, the #1 Fuel Injector is firing normally, but #2 is not?
If that's the case, start tracking the Fuel Injector connector, wiring and back to the wiring harness to see if there are any issues. You might also consider swapping the wires on that ONE injector connector to see if you've wired it up backwards.
You're getting closer, Gary.
If that's the case, start tracking the Fuel Injector connector, wiring and back to the wiring harness to see if there are any issues. You might also consider swapping the wires on that ONE injector connector to see if you've wired it up backwards.
You're getting closer, Gary.
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