Any thoughts on these as a pump replacement? I've tried a few and they only seem to last for a day . Can't seem to pump fuel out of the tank but will transfer fuel fron one can to another

 

The 1984/1985 factory pump isn't available any longer, but the 1979-1982 one is. That's what I have on my 1985. It's configured a little different but fits and works great. The cheap ones can also be hard to regulate pressure.

I got tired of buying the aftermarket ones that cost $100 and lasted a year.

https://mazdatrix.com/product/fuel-pump-rx7-79-82/

 

I did break down and I bought one it should be here next week let u know how it works

 

i did a bunch of testing and i like the factory pump. it flows plenty of fuel, and pressure is rock solid
if you search i probably mentioned the flow numbers before

i also found that putting a regulator on it, killed fuel flow, and pressure wasn't as stable, so save yourself the $50 and don't use the stupid Holley regulator

 

Kansas? Am I supposed to prime the pump? I ordered the one from atkins. I got it to flow by pushing fuel into it however the flow is like just barely opening your sink tap, is that normal?
I thought it is supposed to stream out, it barely fills the inline filter, I have checked for blockages by compressed air through the lines, no blockage. Also under the car back by fuel tank there is I think maybe a check valve for outgoing fuel what is that for? Direction is tank to carb
it also don't sound like the original it sounds like a small compressor running bump, bump, bump, bump etc. Normal for this model? The original sounded like a normal electric fuel pump constant whir

 

Here are a few diagrams and some info. The second one is how to test one of the vales. I'm also including the 12A section of the manual. The fuel stuff starts at page 4A-45. The flow at the carb into a jug is about 1 1/2 qts at 1 minute. Sounds like you might have a blockage.

The Fuel Cut Valve is if the car flip upside down. Not sure 100% what the other does but I do know it also acts as a vent and is open to atmosphere. The hose runs into the frame.

The factory pump will make a lot of noise when key is on not running. You do not need to prime.

 

Kansas, I did all that you suggested. I even pulled the tank, removed the pickup tube checked it for blockages none found. The fuel lines from the tank to the pump are questionable. I will rwplace those. I blew all lines with compreased air and all seem clear. When I put the fuel line by the carb in a quart jug it took 1.5 min to fill halfway, so the pump is definatly not pumping at volume. Possible the pump I orderwd that you suggestwd is not working right? Would air getting sucked along with the fuel cause little pressure ? I am a loss other than buying a more high volume pump, I will say that the OEM pump did push quite a bit of fuel and had a modern day whir sound while operating, while the one from atkins is just like the chinese ones and has a clack, clack, clack as it is pumping. I don't know what to do. I'm almost at the point of giving up and selling the beast as is

 

Try testing the pump by putting a fuel line from a gas can into a jug to measure the 1.5 qts in one minute. This will prove if the new pump is good.

If that is good, you can install the pump in the factory location and instead of pulling the fuel from the tank, pull it from a gas can.

If this works then something is a miss with the tank, hoses, or valves.

 

Got it I will tey that and report back

 

One thing I forget to ask. What is the voltage at the pump connector with key on? If it's low, that is your problem.

 

Ok I will check

 

Got the pump to work. Car throttle is stuttering at anything below 3k rpms. Have not checked timing with light yet hqve it set at TDC for now. Does the ignition system have inherently weak spark? Changed cap/rotor new wires, new coils, new plugs. Spark is yellow whiteish not blue and not very strong. I have ordered some new ignitors off internet. Anything else that could cause weak spark. Battery at 12.6 v