Huh, that seems strange to me. I thought the rear usually ran hotter due to how coolant is routed. Beyond a compression issue, might that point towards some circuits in the carb not being balanced? Do the compression test, but I for one will be curious to see the results.

 

I forgot my compression tester at work but I did run the old fashion one if you will.

I put a ratchet on the eccentric shaft and removed a spark plug from the front rotor and got three very distinct puffs of air from the rotor. They were about 3 turns of my ratchet away from each other so I could tell they were all a different deal.

this was the same outcome with my rear rotor when I did the same testing method.

I also began to premix my fuel instead of the OMP and my engine seemed to run a heck of a lot smoother.

needless to say I was very surprised by the result of both rotors on the compression test.

 

The rotors rarely run identically unless you really tune the heck out of things. The rear rotors intakes on the nikki intake manifold are slightly different if you look and it can cause mixture differences.

 

oh okay that makes more sense to me with the way they run now that I know that.

 

In addition to all that, when I start my car up from it being “cold”, it likes to stall after running a few seconds and I have to use starter fluid to start it back up again.

usually after the second or third cranking process I am able to hold the rpms at about 1800-2000 to help the car warm up which then it idles just fine.

is this a safe warm up/cranking process to use? I’ve read all about different ways to do it but haven’t seen anyone name any process close to mine.

thanks in advance

 

Do you have a choke and use it? If not hook the choke up or hook the choke cable to the fast idle so it holds it up until warm. In cold weather its not unusual for a carb to not work well until warmed up.

 

Super normal, pro tip don't let it die after cold start

Feather the throttle in the morning after cold start. Keep it at 1000 to 2000 rpms for a minute; (don't hold the gas pedal down) feather the throttle, feathering squirts a little extra fuel because of the accelerator pump. The extra fuel helps especially if you don't' have a choke (if you do just use it).

Almost sounds like your choke is malfunctioning, but I can't make that assessment because I've never had a functional choke on any RX7.

 

Adjust your idle and use your choke. With those two items you should be able to turn the key to "on", pump the pedal twice while pulling the choke on, and have it fire right up and stay running. My car doesnt exactly run "great" yet, but will fire right up on a 25F morning.

 

Do everything everyone else has already said, but if I could add one thing, just pump the throttle pedal a couple times if it dies instead of using ether. The AP will add a little gas and acts similar to what ether is doing for you. I always pump the pedal twice before cold starts - makes it start near instantly for both my stock and modded carbs.