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So after rebuilding the entire fuel system and cleaning the carb, I was still having trouble keeping the car running.
Had a buddy of mine help with the carb and found the power valve was split and there was so much buildup in the jets and lines. But now the carb is back together The tank is getting Red Koted this weekend and hopefully The rx will be back on the road by Sunday. It now has 2 external filters and a new regulator (the old one was shot).
Only Holleys have power valve LOL! Thats the AP diaphram, makes the transition from the
idle/primary circuit smooth by shooting some gas into the venturies at the right rate.
Only Holleys have power valve LOL! Thats the AP diaphram, makes the transition from the
idle/primary circuit smooth by shooting some gas into the venturies at the right rate.
Definitely crud in there.
What do you mean by prefilters?
My buddy is used to rebuilding Holleys and edlebrocks... not surprised he called it by the wrong name.
He said inside the fuel inlets into the carb where the banjo bolts go there are supposed to be prefilters and a third filter somewhere in the middle of the carb... I have only basic knowledge of carbs, He was following the illustration sent with the rebuild kit for part reference.
If there are no filters inside of that carb then great I am missing a few less peices. But I installed a filter before the pump and one befoe the carb anyways just to be safe, along with a regulator since the pump on my car is pushing way more than that carb needs
Back to square one... Installed the rebuilt carb, fuel is trickling out the primaries but the car is till not starting. wont even start on carb cleaner... really its brake clean. lost at this point
I will ask my buddy that rebuilt it, but i want to say i saw the aftermarket ones still in the bag. he said all he did was tighten? the float or needle down.. whichever one it was
There are tiny filter screens on the inlets and there are filters on the seats. Make darn sure you clean those seat filters.
Don't try and start the engine on brake clean or carb cleaner. That's not good. Verify you have good spark and check to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Pull and clean the plugs. Did you reset the float levels after the rebuild? You also need to make sure the small squirter on the top of the carb is working as well. I rebuild a few carb per year for customers and find that you need to make darn sure everything is clean and you need to make sure you ave a baseline mixture set. Too much or too little will cause some starting issues.
There are tiny filter screens on the inlets and there are filters on the seats. Make darn sure you clean those seat filters.
Don't try and start the engine on brake clean or carb cleaner. That's not good. Verify you have good spark and check to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Pull and clean the plugs. Did you reset the float levels after the rebuild? You also need to make sure the small squirter on the top of the carb is working as well. I rebuild a few carb per year for customers and find that you need to make darn sure everything is clean and you need to make sure you ave a baseline mixture set. Too much or too little will cause some starting issues.
From what I was told there are no filters inside my carb at this time.. Where could I get them?
I plan on checking the spark tonight, plugs are new like maybe 50 miles on them before the breakdown. My friend said the carb was completely cleaned out fuel inlet and overflow were clogged. I have a small amount of fuel coming out of the carb upon cranking the car. the primaries are not spraying but kind of trickling fuel... that seemed normal from every other dealing I have had with the rx and motorcycle carbs I have messed with.
Back to square one... Installed the rebuilt carb, fuel is trickling out the primaries but the car is till not starting. wont even start on carb cleaner... really its brake clean. lost at this point
Flooding. The acetone in brake clean is more fuel; making a flooding situation worse. You need more air not more fuel.
Un atomized fuel should never come out of a carb.
Or in your case you need to remove the fuel and fix the flooding.
You don't need those silly little screens. I don't get what they are for. If a particle big enough to get caught by one of those screens gets caught by them you have bigger problems than a clogged screen. Better to let it pass and end up in the bowls. Think about it like arterial plaque; you want it to go right past anything and then get stuck somewhere it can do no harm.
EDIT: I have no idea where you can acquire more screens. you can possibly get some from a motorcycle carb kit. Most mickuni CV carbs use them.
Flooding. The acetone in brake clean is more fuel; making a flooding situation worse. You need more air not more fuel.
Un atomized fuel should never come out of a carb.
Or in your case you need to remove the fuel and fix the flooding.
I have a 6lb regulator on the rx. so I am not how it would be getting too much fuel through the carbs. I tested spark last night and all of the coils are working. I have fire up to the plugs when i pulled one of the top plugs i was soaked in fuel though so I am going to replace the plugs with something a little hotter, I think. Unless for some reason the carb is not atomizing the fuel like it should I have no idea why it would continue to flood out after a revamped fuel system
I remove it from all the carbs I do. This provides more space for a boost signal to get into the float bowls and prevents flooding at the same time.
As for the strainers, I remove all four of them. They are a hindrance to fuel coming in. As for particles, yes I prefer them to get into the float bowls where they don't cause any harm.
I remove it from all the carbs I do. This provides more space for a boost signal to get into the float bowls and prevents flooding at the same time.
As for the strainers, I remove all four of them. They are a hindrance to fuel coming in. As for particles, yes I prefer them to get into the float bowls where they don't cause any harm.
Well as far as the strainers go I have none. PO must have removed them, so good there. The Float bowl vent solenoid I know where that is, not sure if it is working... Never even knew what it was. If i am interested in removing it, do i need to jump the connector or leave it loose like the rest of the rat nest remains.. How do I plug the sensor off? do i just put a plug, or is that a good place to add some sensor?
As far as the fbvs goes.... It clicks. I dont think it is the sensor. I saw something about checking float level... Do i check that with fuel going through the carb or what? I have zero experience with fuel issues on carbs..
Just look in the little sight glass windows on the sides of the carb. The fuel level should be in the middle of the glass window.
It has been sitting for about a week without running fuel through it since I have the tank out to be coated, just no time to do it. The fuel was sitting at the bottom of the sight glass... So that means I need to loosen the needles a little?
My buddy that rebuilt it said the tabs on the floats that hold the needles were bent all the way down so he bent them back up so the needles would seat all the way
It has been sitting for about a week without running fuel through it since I have the tank out to be coated, just no time to do it. The fuel was sitting at the bottom of the sight glass... So that means I need to loosen the needles a little?
My buddy that rebuilt it said the tabs on the floats that hold the needles were bent all the way down so he bent them back up so the needles would seat all the way
Did he do it properly? Adjusting the floats is a very delicate task. Usually takes a few
times to get the fuel at the right level in the window. That he says he did this to get
the needles to seat says to me he may have used t he new needles and seats from
the rebuild kit. These are notorious for causing flooding and fuel issues. I hope you
have the originals.
Did he do it properly? Adjusting the floats is a very delicate task. Usually takes a few
times to get the fuel at the right level in the window. That he says he did this to get
the needles to seat says to me he may have used t he new needles and seats from
the rebuild kit. These are notorious for causing flooding and fuel issues. I hope you
have the originals.
I told him to keep the originals in there and just clean them, I would have to ask him if he kept them in there. If he did all I have to do is adjust them until the fuel sits in the middle of the glass?
I told him to keep the originals in there and just clean them, I would have to ask him if he kept them in there. If he did all I have to do is adjust them until the fuel sits in the middle of the glass?
Start by removing the top o the carb and adjustung the drop per the FSM. That will
get you close maybe. Then put it back on with no gas in the bowls (need to suck it
out), turn on the key and see if they both fill to the right level. Wash and repeat until you
are happy with the levels both being in the middle of the site glass. Sometimes you are
lucky and hit one or both to be very close. Its a tedious, time consuming task.
09-14-16, 12:23 PM
