Omarrodriguez

I would like to take away the fuel injection
And run a Holley intake with a Holley carburetor but not from racing best (800 dollars)

For a 1985 gsl se

Cannot start the car I think is either the throttle position sensor or the pressure regulator.
I like the clean engine bay look, also the fuel injector parts are difficult to find and expensive .



Input will be appreciated to achieve my goal

Thank u

GSLSEforme

Holley carb conversion is not all its cracked up to be,particularly a stock out of the box carburetor from Holley. Even the RB modified Holley has driveability issues,with the carb turned 90 degrees to accomodate a rotary engine resulting in starvation/stumbling in turns. The Holley carb design was meant to be installed front to back and not sideways. Understood they work well when sorted in straight line acceleration,but braking,turns another story. I propose by the time you lay out all the cash to swap a Holley into your car,and then find this out,no matter what the problem is that won't allow the car to run( short of a worn out or mechanical defect in the engine),you could have repaired the original FI system to run properly much cheaper-with excellent driveability. FI parts are expensive,especially if you start replacing parts that you "think" are bad. This system is very reliable,fairly easy to diagnose and repair. Recommend you download the manual found on this website and read thru fuel system troubleshooting. With some very basic tools,a multimeter,and testing procedures found in the manual you can test and confirm good/bad before you start replacing parts$$$. Both the items you mention you think are bad are not high on list of suspects for not allowing the car to start. Furthermore suggest you rule out some very basic things as the problem for no start,possible not even fuel system related. Begin by making sure you have both leading & trailing spark at plugs. No trailing =no fuel pump,no fuel,no start...battery strong,crank over fast enough,plugs dry/wet? Maybe not type of input you were looking for..my 2 cents. Happy to help you try to work through this.

Omarrodriguez

thank you for your input.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

If you're handy, you can get an aluminum plate to fit your 6 port 13B and install any 81-85 12A Nikki manifold on it. This allows you to use the best carb ever made for the rotary. The Nikki carb. But only if you're handy. If not, just stick with fuel infection. You'd be better off.

Omarrodriguez

thank you Jeff
If I close the the 6 ports, I will be loosing power on the top end since I will not have the ports, don't you think?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm my experience, you can open the aux ports and get rid of the sleeves or leave them in. It doesn't matter as much as everyone thinks. The problems originated due to the restrictive nature of the stock EFI intake manifolding and the way the stock ECU is tuned (where it all needs to work as intended in a system). I've heard people say they only can flow up to about 300CFM or so through the stock throttle body, which is pathetic. Heck a stock Nikki has been reported to flow up to 313cfm on a good day, and I think stock Nikkis are terrible for flow and power. Gutless wonder, they are. I won't run a Nikki on a 4 port 13B with anything smaller than 24.7mm primaries (stock is 20mm), and I'd expect a 6 port would need a bigger minimum size due to its greater port area. Let's say 25.3mm or so. Minimum! But then a stock 6 port does have small NO spec primaries and I have not had a chance to do enough testing on them as of yet. I will soon hopefully as winter turns into spring. but maybe the 24.7mm rule can apply to them too. I don't know.

Oh and go really big on your secondaries. The 6 port has a tremendous amount of port area in the end plates. A GSL-SE is smaller than an FC but still bigger than an 4 port. I'd strive for at least 30mm here, but maybe a little bigger up to 31mm might work. Just be careful as the bigger you go, the less venturi shape you retain, and you risk cutting into the little cavity where the vacuum secondary pulls from (pop out a set of venturis and you will see it). If you go to big you need to backfill this cavity with quicksteel and worry about it holding in place in a running engine.

If what I said is like greek to you, might want to just stick with EFI.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You should stick to the EFI. Get a manual and some basic tools and DVM and start from the
fuel tank and work your way up to make sure all the peices are working correctly. As mentioned
do the simple stuff first; full tuneup, timing check, fuel pressure and flow check, etc.

Folks on here can help you if you give some more details about exactly what it does and doesn't
do when you turn the key.