Autocross Questions
10-12-10, 10:00 AM
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Autocross Questions
Hello all. I think I may be having a midlife crisis, but I am only 29 so my wife is not too happy about it. 
Anyway, I am looking for a car to have some fun with. I have a Honda Accord and while it is a very nice car, I would like something that's just a little more fun. My plans would be to use this car for some commuting, an occasional trip to the track, and Solo II events. I have pretty much decided on a first gen RX-7. Now, I just need to find one.
Not that far from where I live is an '85 GSL-SE with a blown engine. The car has had some suspension work done, the paint is nice with no rust, the interior has been gutted, racing seats were installed, a roll bar was put in, he has two sets of wheels and tires, and the rear hatch glass was replaced with Plexiglas. The owner is asking $1,000.
Since the interior is gutted will I automatically be put in the prepared class? Is there any way around that? The car will come with the original rear hatch glass if that matters.
If I am in the prepared class, what engine modifications can I do? If I understand the rules correctly, it seems like I can port the engine and put in different rotors, but can I put a turbo on it or swap in a turbo II engine?
What do you all think? Should I go for it? Should I wait and find a stock car to start with? Should I try taking my Accord out first? Would a gutted car be unbearable to live with for commuting?
I know that is a lot of questions, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Anyway, I am looking for a car to have some fun with. I have a Honda Accord and while it is a very nice car, I would like something that's just a little more fun. My plans would be to use this car for some commuting, an occasional trip to the track, and Solo II events. I have pretty much decided on a first gen RX-7. Now, I just need to find one. Not that far from where I live is an '85 GSL-SE with a blown engine. The car has had some suspension work done, the paint is nice with no rust, the interior has been gutted, racing seats were installed, a roll bar was put in, he has two sets of wheels and tires, and the rear hatch glass was replaced with Plexiglas. The owner is asking $1,000.
Since the interior is gutted will I automatically be put in the prepared class? Is there any way around that? The car will come with the original rear hatch glass if that matters.
If I am in the prepared class, what engine modifications can I do? If I understand the rules correctly, it seems like I can port the engine and put in different rotors, but can I put a turbo on it or swap in a turbo II engine?
What do you all think? Should I go for it? Should I wait and find a stock car to start with? Should I try taking my Accord out first? Would a gutted car be unbearable to live with for commuting?
I know that is a lot of questions, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
10-12-10, 11:19 AM
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i'm not sure about the rules, but they are online http://scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=61
plus they have a couple of different classes, like ST, or heres a thought you could build it for IT, which does let you pull the interior..
anyways 1st gens are great, just because they are actually good dual purpose cars, a good auto-x setup isn't too stiff that its not streetable.
mine is a road race car, but its surprisingly ok on the street. ride is stiff, but its not harsh. steering is light, and its not even loud on the inside for some reason....
plus they have a couple of different classes, like ST, or heres a thought you could build it for IT, which does let you pull the interior..
anyways 1st gens are great, just because they are actually good dual purpose cars, a good auto-x setup isn't too stiff that its not streetable.
mine is a road race car, but its surprisingly ok on the street. ride is stiff, but its not harsh. steering is light, and its not even loud on the inside for some reason....
10-12-10, 12:48 PM
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i'm not sure about the rules, but they are online http://scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=61
plus they have a couple of different classes, like ST, or heres a thought you could build it for IT, which does let you pull the interior..
anyways 1st gens are great, just because they are actually good dual purpose cars, a good auto-x setup isn't too stiff that its not streetable.
mine is a road race car, but its surprisingly ok on the street. ride is stiff, but its not harsh. steering is light, and its not even loud on the inside for some reason....
plus they have a couple of different classes, like ST, or heres a thought you could build it for IT, which does let you pull the interior..
anyways 1st gens are great, just because they are actually good dual purpose cars, a good auto-x setup isn't too stiff that its not streetable.
mine is a road race car, but its surprisingly ok on the street. ride is stiff, but its not harsh. steering is light, and its not even loud on the inside for some reason....
10-12-10, 01:55 PM
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First you need to read the rules and decide what class you want to run in. The more modified the class, the more money you'll be in for. I don't have time right now, but I'll post back with more suggestions tomorrow. Find the rules at the SCCA website and begin your research.
I run in CSP, check my signature for mods and video link.
.
I run in CSP, check my signature for mods and video link.
.
10-12-10, 02:49 PM
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not that NASA is perfect, but theres no pre race concours, where if you don't have the correct storage bin lids for the year of car, you're DQ'ed
IT is Improved Touring, BTW
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10-13-10, 12:21 AM
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GSL gets the LSD too, but not sure about the brakes.
I run in CSP because it allows you to do all the cool stuff to your car that you would want to do anyway (emissions removal, nice exhaust system, hot carb, lose the A/C, Shocks/Struts, Springs or Coilovers if you want them). I've got a GSL rear end on my GS, so I get to play with the disc brakes and LSD. If you want to have a nicely modded car that you can still drive to work, the CSP is the class to aim for.
If you port the engine, or go turbo, then you will go to the "monster class" where anything goes. Which means you'll get spanked every time, at least until you start spending serious money on prep and tires. I may go there someday, but not before the kids are grown and out of the house. lol. Too rich for my blood right now.
And while I have dealt with some real arseholes in SCCA, they seem to confine themselves to the National grade events for the most part. The majority of the time I just race with the local club, which still gets some serious guys and over 100 competitors, but our attitude is way more laid back. We understand that we're just here to have a good time.
I run in CSP because it allows you to do all the cool stuff to your car that you would want to do anyway (emissions removal, nice exhaust system, hot carb, lose the A/C, Shocks/Struts, Springs or Coilovers if you want them). I've got a GSL rear end on my GS, so I get to play with the disc brakes and LSD. If you want to have a nicely modded car that you can still drive to work, the CSP is the class to aim for.
If you port the engine, or go turbo, then you will go to the "monster class" where anything goes. Which means you'll get spanked every time, at least until you start spending serious money on prep and tires. I may go there someday, but not before the kids are grown and out of the house. lol. Too rich for my blood right now.
And while I have dealt with some real arseholes in SCCA, they seem to confine themselves to the National grade events for the most part. The majority of the time I just race with the local club, which still gets some serious guys and over 100 competitors, but our attitude is way more laid back. We understand that we're just here to have a good time.
10-13-10, 06:48 AM
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CSP is where I'd like to play, but if I get this car I've been looking at then I'd have to put the stock interior (carpet, headliners, etc) back in right?
10-13-10, 08:43 AM
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GSL-SE get's bigger brakes. You can fit 13's over yours. We need at least a 14 or we wont clear the caliper at all.
I have some grey headliner I'm looking to get rid of in about three weeks. And Some other miec GSL-SE stuff.
I have some grey headliner I'm looking to get rid of in about three weeks. And Some other miec GSL-SE stuff.
Last edited by jshiz; 10-13-10 at 08:45 AM.
10-13-10, 11:54 AM
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Here is a thread about my dad and I building our GSL-SE for autocross. This past year we ran STR.
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/building-gsl-se-csp-886882/
I've been slacking on updating the thread but lots has been going on. If you have specific questions I should be able to answer them..
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/building-gsl-se-csp-886882/
I've been slacking on updating the thread but lots has been going on. If you have specific questions I should be able to answer them..
10-14-10, 06:21 AM
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Here is a thread about my dad and I building our GSL-SE for autocross. This past year we ran STR.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=886882
I've been slacking on updating the thread but lots has been going on. If you have specific questions I should be able to answer them..
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=886882
I've been slacking on updating the thread but lots has been going on. If you have specific questions I should be able to answer them..
10-14-10, 08:04 PM
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If you race in CSP... you get your *** handed to you by Miatas... if you go to FP... you have S-2000, Datsun 240Z, and EVO...
Make your car what you want and have fun with it. IF and only IF you have a car that is prepared for ITA or ITB club racing, you can race it in CSP. IT rules allow complete gutting of the interior. That is what I do because it is fully gutted.
Make your car what you want and have fun with it. IF and only IF you have a car that is prepared for ITA or ITB club racing, you can race it in CSP. IT rules allow complete gutting of the interior. That is what I do because it is fully gutted.
10-14-10, 09:00 PM
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If you race in CSP... you get your *** handed to you by Miatas... if you go to FP... you have S-2000, Datsun 240Z, and EVO...
Make your car what you want and have fun with it. IF and only IF you have a car that is prepared for ITA or ITB club racing, you can race it in CSP. IT rules allow complete gutting of the interior. That is what I do because it is fully gutted.
Make your car what you want and have fun with it. IF and only IF you have a car that is prepared for ITA or ITB club racing, you can race it in CSP. IT rules allow complete gutting of the interior. That is what I do because it is fully gutted.
Now the question is what to do with the engine...
10-15-10, 12:14 AM
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i'm not sure, but if you wanted to do something like a bridgeport that would put you in prepared... a friend of mine has a badass EP rx3, 12a BP, stripped interior...
edit: LMAO! i'm not sure if its E PRODUCTION or E PREPARED... says EP on the side....
10-15-10, 02:39 AM
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I've ran in CSP all the races I've been in. I did not build the car for CSP, but built it and that's the class I wound up in. This year I threw a bunch of new parts at it, ported engine, steering conversion, new suspension setup. Basically overhauled the mechanicals and next year I'll likely be in Street Modified, or something of the sort. The thing is, I drive my car on the street WAY more than I race it, and I'm never in enough races to worry about my standing. The best I've ever done in CSP is 2nd.... out of 2. I built my car the way I wanted it to be and if I get my *** handed to me then so be it. I'll still have fun every time and still be happy and proud of what I built every day I drive it on the street.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
10-15-10, 11:17 AM
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I've ran in CSP all the races I've been in. I did not build the car for CSP, but built it and that's the class I wound up in. This year I threw a bunch of new parts at it, ported engine, steering conversion, new suspension setup. Basically overhauled the mechanicals and next year I'll likely be in Street Modified, or something of the sort. The thing is, I drive my car on the street WAY more than I race it, and I'm never in enough races to worry about my standing. The best I've ever done in CSP is 2nd.... out of 2. I built my car the way I wanted it to be and if I get my *** handed to me then so be it. I'll still have fun every time and still be happy and proud of what I built every day I drive it on the street.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
$30 doesn't buy much at a road course, but we do run 4 15minute sessions a day, and then whatever the races are, either 15min to 3 hours.
10-15-10, 01:01 PM
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I've ran in CSP all the races I've been in. I did not build the car for CSP, but built it and that's the class I wound up in. This year I threw a bunch of new parts at it, ported engine, steering conversion, new suspension setup. Basically overhauled the mechanicals and next year I'll likely be in Street Modified, or something of the sort. The thing is, I drive my car on the street WAY more than I race it, and I'm never in enough races to worry about my standing. The best I've ever done in CSP is 2nd.... out of 2. I built my car the way I wanted it to be and if I get my *** handed to me then so be it. I'll still have fun every time and still be happy and proud of what I built every day I drive it on the street.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
On the other hand, if your building this car as a dedicated racer that will see light street duty and haven't had much if any race time, pick a class near the bottom and build for that. Once you become consistent and begin to outdrive the car, that is the time to upgrade into a different class. Make small incremental improvements as you learn. I wouldn't recommend building a car the way I did if it's mostly for racing. I now have to learn to drive what might as well be an entirely different car from the one I've been driving since April 06. Luckily I'll have lots of time driving about to learn some of the quirks before hitting the races. Keep in mind at an autocross you only get a few minutes of total seat time each day. The rest is spent in line, working the course or on break/adjusting. It's fun and definitely worth the entry fee, but you get what you pay for and $30 doesn't buy much at a road course.
I think we are like minded.
If I go absolutely crazy for Autocross then I'll probably sell the car and get something JUST for Autocross.
You too get a high five.
2 more questions for those still following along at home.
1. If I were to buy an FC that originally was not a turbo, but someone had swapped a TII engine into it, would that put me in the stock turbo class or would it be some kind of modified class?
2. What would you do with this car if you were in my shoes? rebuild the engine as is, port it, swap in a turbo engine? I'd like to stay as cheap as possible, but I wouldn't mind a few extra horses.
I hate growing old. Maybe if I were younger I would have impulsively bought the car and been building it already, but instead I'm trying to figure out a "budget".
10-15-10, 04:56 PM
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I think we are like minded.
If I go absolutely crazy for Autocross then I'll probably sell the car and get something JUST for Autocross.
You too get a high five.
2 more questions for those still following along at home.
1. If I were to buy an FC that originally was not a turbo, but someone had swapped a TII engine into it, would that put me in the stock turbo class or would it be some kind of modified class?
2. What would you do with this car if you were in my shoes? rebuild the engine as is, port it, swap in a turbo engine? I'd like to stay as cheap as possible, but I wouldn't mind a few extra horses.
I hate growing old. Maybe if I were younger I would have impulsively bought the car and been building it already, but instead I'm trying to figure out a "budget".
I am "fairly" competitive in CSP and I beat the CRAP out of cars with 3-5 times the horsepower of my car. Don't focus on the engine too much now. Make sure it is in great tune and seems to be making as much power as it can. Focus on you.. then focus on suspension... then tires... then the rest will fall into place.
I plan on racing my RX-7 for about 2 more years to hone in on my skills, then I will look at buying a C-mod or D-mod car....possible a purpose built formula ford or a Lola..
Don't worry too much about the car... Lemme give you an analogy... If you went out and bought the BEST Taylor Made or Ping golf clubs and went to play against Tiger Woods.... He could show up with a Croquet Mallet for driving, a 2X4 for his mid course and a pool stick for his putts and he will STILL whoop your ***!!!
Work on you and have a blast!!
10-15-10, 06:55 PM
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1. If I were to buy an FC that originally was not a turbo, but someone had swapped a TII engine into it, would that put me in the stock turbo class or would it be some kind of modified class?
2. What would you do with this car if you were in my shoes? rebuild the engine as is, port it, swap in a turbo engine? I'd like to stay as cheap as possible, but I wouldn't mind a few extra horses.
I hate growing old. Maybe if I were younger I would have impulsively bought the car and been building it already, but instead I'm trying to figure out a "budget".
2. if i was you, id buy the 1st gen, make it legal for something, either IT or EP or something, and just go have fun. the SCCA gets a bad rap sometimes because their classes are both weird and strict, but maybe they'd let you do what we do in NASA occasionally, and just run for fun. we've run a BMW in honda challenge a couple of times, with the understanding we get DQ'ed at the end. it does help to know people....
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