swbtm

iTrader: (2)

And the real fun....

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Here's the video after I spent a couple hours tinkering with the carb... I got it to idle steady at 1500... I'll drop it down this weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e61twNUr18

Oh and Ray... check out the exhaust tips now!!! Not too shabby for doing it myself!

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

And finally....


I have a whole lot more pics of the bay if anyone is interested in more

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

If you want to hear and see the difference between the two engines, go back to the first page and watch the video links posted there.... that's my old engine...

that's just pure entertainment!

Oh and don't forget to take a look at those housings and rotors and ask yourself how in the world that engine ran at all!

yetterben

Nice j109's :P

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

oh and for those of you that actually read through my posts... I mistakenly called the eccentric shaft a concentric shaft... my bad...

have a good one

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Fantastic, it's coming together nicely. And those tips came out great, hard to believe they have been painted.

So that's what a header wrap looks like, pretty cool. If the chrome on mine starts to get grungy I've have to give that a try. Does it do anything other than look cool and keep the rust down?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Header wrap actually promotes rust since it holds moisture in (when the car is off obviously) but it's main purpose is to keep engine bay temps down by holding the heat in the exhaust. I've read such mixed reviews of that stuff i'm weary to use it.. Does look good though! haha
Pete your car is coming along nicely, can't wait to meet up and see it in person!

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Also the wrap increases the exhaust gas speed through the system by keeping the internal temperatures up. This means that the engine breathes easier because the gases do not slow down as quickly.

As for the rust... i've heard this as well. But since the header is nice thick metal and i've treated all the base metal with lots of layers of protection, this should last quite a while. Further more, even if the header does rust through, the ceramic wrap will still keep the exhaust gases going through the tube even though it is no longer there.

I've also heard from a guy who used to race a 7, he melted through his RB header wall in one section and continued to run it because the wrap held everything together.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

I'd believe that, I'm just very rust phobic I guess you would say, I try to do everything possible to prevent it... As you said though you treated the metal well and its nice and thick will take quite a while for anything to really happen.

CHINX74RX2

Im just curious to know,WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE STICK TO THAT BIG OL' ATERNATOR????

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

with respect to the alternator.... i'm in the process of buying an FD alternator. It will most likely be the same general size, but it will put out 100-110 amps

What are you running chinx?

CHINX74RX2

Im running a S5 alt on mine.it works Great!!! I recommend the s5 na starter too,its a bit smaller but works on the FB trans.It cranks so much better that a 12a starter.

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Hmm i'll have to think about that one... the FD alt swap is basically the same and the FC's... does anyone know if the pulley shaft size for the FD is the same as the s5 and FB shafts?

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I kind of like the 84/85 FB alternator for coolness.

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Ray you are the inspiration... keeping the entire rats nest and loving every second of it!

I can't imagine trying to keep that tangle of vacuum lines maintained and in shape... I was so happy that I didn't have to worry about putting it back together when i pulled it from my parts car... hahaha

but that is a nice shiny alt you have there!

I'm getting the FD alt because i've had electrical draining issues in the past with my stereo and crappy battery... does the 84/85 have any improvement in the amperage?

Naegleria_Fowleri

Your car looks absolutely amazing.

As far as I remember, the 84/85 does not have a difference in amperage at all. Don't quote me on that, but I am almost positive it is the same. I don't think there is any differences in the engine bays at all for the 12A's from '83-'85.

Paul Loatman

Nice car, keep it up.

I have an `85 GSL that i just got a newly rebuilt 12a into, and the alternator is pretty crappy, i'm planning on getting a new one myself, even if it's any better than the earlier models it's still crap so if i were you i'd go for that FD alt. I don't know what i plan on getting, just something better. Let us know how the FD alternator works out.

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Will do about the FD alt. vipernicious has done this swap and said it is the same as the S5 alt install.

Thanks for the compliment, one of the main reasons the car looks as nice as it does is because it has only seen New England roads for about 6 months out of it's 25 year life.

I'm heading home this weekend to do a little house keeping on it and I should be able to pick up my rewinds on saturday if everything goes well!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Ray isn't the only one with a functional rats nest, but his is quite a bit cleaner looking than either of mine lol.
Sounds like your on your way to getting this thing done.
As for alternators I can't remember if the 84/85 has any more power (if it did it wouldn't be much more) but it does have the internal fan unlike the earlier ones....big deal I know haha

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The SE alts have a bit more output (60A vs. 55A). I believe that the SA alts were more like 50A. If you wanted a bolt on solutions, then I would go S4 TII alt (70A). The S5 alts are nice and only require a simple wiring change. They are 80A (NA or TII). This is what I run and I love it. The FD alts require a pulley change in addition to the wiring change that the S5 alts need. The FD alts are in the 100A+ range.

The best solution is to find an alt that would cover all your electrical use plus a bit of margin. There is no use in choosing an FD alt over and S5 alt if the max you ever pull is 50A, for instance. A larger alt would be better choice if you thought you were going to add an e-fan, large amps, or other high load devices, though.

Ben: the J-109s may be nice, but they aren't half as cool as the oil filter pedestal.

Looking good, Pete. I need to start my own project thread. Doing suspension, brakes, and exhaust at the moment.

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, ya I would have to agree with you. Getting away from that beehive cooler makes the engine look so much better. Although having a working tach is going to be really nice!

I drove without one for a while and was shifting depending on sound, haha. This should be a little more precise.

For the alt. I have a large amp powering 2 10'' subs, a cd player, 2 12'' e-fans, and i'll be putting a small e-fan on the oil cooler that will be constantly on from the 12volt ignition switch. A little overkill but I would like to keep my oil temps nice and low. Neither of my two e-fans currently cover any of the cooler so at a stop I will not be cooling at all. It looks as though the stock belt fan would pull air through the cooler as well...

The smallest i've been able to find so far is 7''... that would work... with some overlap on the top and bottom... anyone know of any smaller diameter fans??

yetterben

well then humph...................lol

Paul Loatman

Is the S4 alternator from the NA and Turbo models different in some way? I can get the alt from the NA for pretty cheap. Would the S4 NA alt work with a `85 first gen?

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

gsl-se addict said right in his post that the na and tII alt put out the same amperage. Any more specific than that... you might want to pm him...