(IGNITION) Transistor trick for 2GCDFIS.

 
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Old 10-21-05, 06:02 AM
  #551  
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Hello out there...I received my second Igniter assembly....there is a difference and I'm wondering if the difference is why my TT wouldn't work. I was swapping the back mounting plate to faciclitate mounting this in a better location and I noticed that on one igniter the internal resistor is inline with the brown wire and other igniter's resister is inline with the black wire...Does anyone have an idea why they would be that different? Why would one be on the hot and the other the ground?
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Old 10-21-05, 06:20 AM
  #552  
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I have noticed that as well. Some have the resistor on the + side of the coil, while others have it on the -. I am not sure when the changed occured or why. Mine is off an '87 TII and has the resistor on the black wire (- side of coil). Either way does not matter. The resistor is still inline with the coil.

As far as it not working, do you have a multimeter/voltmeter on hand? I can guide you through trouble shooting. It is possible that the circuit became damaged somehow. If so, I can give a refund or get you a discounted (possibly free) new circuit. Shoot me a pm and we will get it figured out.

I got my internet hooked up. It was faster than I thought. I will post up the current board layout and/or schematic after work.

Kent
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Old 10-21-05, 11:02 AM
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Here we go as promised:

U1 7805 5V Voltage Regulator
U2 MC14538B Dual Precision Monostable Multivibrator
U3 74HC32 Quad 2-input OR gate
Q1-Q2 NPN General Purpose Transistor (2n2222A or equivalent)
C1-C2 0.1uF Capacitor (ceramic, metalized polyester film, etc.)
R1 Use jumper wire or 0 ohm resistor
R2 22k Ohm resistor ¼-watt
R3 22K or 33k Ohm resistor ¼-watt
R4, R5, R7 1k Ohm resistor ¼-watt
R6, R10 330 or 390 Ohm resistor ¼-watt
LED1, LED2 T-1 LED (green, red, amber, etc.) blue, white, and similar will not work because they require a higher forward voltage



I will see what I can come up with for the dual layer design for the professional boards. I'll also see if I can shrink it down some and find a box that will work with it.

Kent
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Old 10-23-05, 06:23 PM
  #554  
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This is exactly what I was looking for. Over the next week or so, as parts start rolling in, this will help immensely. Thanks Kent!
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Old 10-23-05, 07:40 PM
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Here is a positive diagram that can be easily used with presensitized boards. you would just have to print it onto a transpanency, develop the board under regular light with the transpanercy overtop of the board, and etch it. its pretty simple.

-Matt
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Old 10-24-05, 01:31 AM
  #556  
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Matt, I'll send you a file now that I know exactly what you need. I can do one that is positive without the silksceen. I can also flip around the text so it won't be backwards.

The one thing with this layout is that the transistor layout is actually for a PNP transistor. Many transistors have their pins in a line (instead out offset like shown), so you just bend one pin out to make it work. The transistors that I bought, however, were offset already (but with the center pin offset the opposite way since we are using NPN transistors). I know have mdified the footprint to create one that is correct for the NPN. I am now laying out the new board (double sided). The length of the board will be about the same, but I think I can reduce the width quite a bit. It is a lot of trial and error to arrange the parts in an optimum way to get the traces how you want them. I'll post it up when it is done along with the approximate manufacturing costs.
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Old 10-24-05, 05:12 PM
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After fighting with a flooding issue for three days I found out that my leading ignition was dead. This mod sucks! Nah, just kidding. I found out that one of the tabs on my ignitor was bent over so it wasn't getting a connection. Beats me how the damned thing ran at all! Bent it back and plugged it in and she fired right up. Man, I'm such a dumbass!
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Old 10-25-05, 08:13 AM
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I got my 2GCDFIS w/TT installed yesterday. I have a 12A SP that I rebuilt with about 3K miles on it, running a Holly intake with 600 Edelbrock and RB headers and exhaust. Ran very strong before the mod was added, but it now runs a lot smoother and cleaner and hot starts are a lot quicker. I had the timing set at stock, but advanced the timing to a 3L and 17T. I believe this is what RB recommends for a SP. I took it for a hard run, pulled the plugs and am getting a nice medium brown burn on the plugs which are 2nd gen plugs on the leading and 1st gen on the trailing. It seemed my secondaries were also more responsive. Over all I would say there was a power gain. Filled it up after I got done tuning everything and will know by the end of the week if there is an increase in MPG. I had an 18MPG avg before the mod which was mainly highway used as a daily driver. I will post an update when I get the final results.
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Old 10-25-05, 10:58 AM
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Hey, Kent, do you think its possible to integrate the circuit into the ignitor case of the FC coil so its all one piece? I was tossing the idea around last night while disassembling the ignitor assembly for cleaning and polishing. I think it would make the install even more clean and compact looking and thats a major plus for someone like me who is **** about his engine bay. The main concern that I have is will the circuit be damaged if mounted inside of the case?
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Old 10-25-05, 10:59 AM
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I just filled up this AM for the first time since installing the TT and I gained 3 mpg!
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Old 10-25-05, 11:24 AM
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ratboy: That's great. Hope everyone gets the same results.

Blastin:That may be possible. You would need to run the 1st gen ignitor wires into the 2nd gen assembly. The other issues may be with heat from the ignitor and possible EM interference from the coil. Maybe we will be able to make the box smaller and thinner with the newer boards so that the install would be cleaner.
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Old 10-25-05, 11:48 AM
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I don't mind assembling the boards and/or distributing them back out. I can set up a paypall account so that trans action can be handled that way, if ok with everyone.

I don't have the fundage to pay for anything upfront. I would say if it was possible to do a quanity of 50 or so you get a great deal just on the boareds alone and hard to find componets. Complete kits would seem a little harder to make as far as getting the ignition from a 2nd gen. could always pick them up though.

But if you want me to assimle them and keep parts on had for any more orders after this batch is done i don't mind doing that either. then could just take orders over PMs. Let me know... i have spare time on the weekends.
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Old 10-31-05, 09:21 PM
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After 2 fillups since installing the 2GCDFIS w/TT and my average MPG increased a little over 2 MPG. One tank was daily driving and the second tank was on a local RX-7 scenic road trip where we open things up from time to time. I suspect mine will probably average about 3 MPG which will be about 20-21 MPG with a 12a SP, RB headers & exhaust, Holly intake with 600 Edelbrock and 15" wheels. At this rate, it will pay for itself in a couple of months. Not to mention it runs smoother, starts quicker and burns cleaner.
Todd
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Old 11-01-05, 02:33 PM
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Well,, Such an interesting thread. It get's the juices going. I'm ready for this ignition on the '79. But....It's still got points! So, that sends me looking for a 81-85 'lectronic distributor plus the 2nd gen coil. Then this wonderful bit of electronics wizardry.

Are there any 1st gen listers with extra hardware available??

Local friendly "wreckers" with RX's are rare here in Vt.

All offers considered ;-)

Thanks

CalG
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Old 11-01-05, 02:48 PM
  #565  
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^^^PM'd you^^^
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Old 11-01-05, 03:47 PM
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Sorry for no responce about getting some things set up... in the middle of moving... life is a pain some times.. you drive fast to get things done just so that you can do more things so that you can make your car better and faster so that you can drive faster so that you can get more things done and more things pile on top of it... that is a mouth full i know..

As soon as i can get settled in my new apt in Dunwoody area... will get one of these made up and see what time it takes... would be good to see if we can get a full package deal done...2gen coil and board/box all in one type thing. December will have more cash flow to help get some of the orders out of the way.

any word on the boards either 1 sides or 2 yet?
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Old 11-01-05, 05:49 PM
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i haven't made any boards yet, due to some part availability problems. as soon as parts are all in, i'll time what I can and let you know.
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Old 11-02-05, 01:48 AM
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I have been working on the two-sided board layout as well as a write-up for people who want to build the simplified circuit that doesn't have the auto-switching. This circuit is simple enough to do point-to-point connections without the need for a PCB. This would get people by until the auto-switching units are available. It takes a bit or trial and error to get a good layout on the PCB. One has to move the components around and orient them to get the size down. The cost of the board doesn't really depend on two-sided or one-sided. They charge a setup fee (biggest part of getting these made) and then a charge based on surface area of the board. So, doing double sided and as small as possible will lower the costs.

As far as costs, it really depends on the number we get made. I haven't heard from that many people, so I am not sure what we can get the costs down to. I think a kit would be good, but I don't know about including the coil. I think it may be hard for one person to source that many coils, but if someone could, that would be great.

Let's get this figured out and get it going. I am willing to help as much as possible. It sounds like we have several people that would be willing to do kitting/assembly. We just need to figure out the details of it all.

I could put up money for the boards and parts. I just need to know we have enough interest to make it work. Possibly a small deposit would be required as it would cost about $300-400 for the boards to be made and an other $200 or so for the basic parts.

As I said before, we need to try to get around 30 boards or more made to get the board costs reasonable.

Kent
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