(IGNITION) DLIDFIS installed! Small write-up and some questions
09-07-04, 08:31 AM
#76
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Three J-105s! 
09-07-04, 01:12 PM
#77
Pele, you saw the pics of the filed down male quick disconnects in the pickup plugs, right? They're never given me a problem.
Mireck, I must have stated that in the article. Man, I was so conservative back then! That's why I said to use shielded wire, you know, to be on the safe side. It turned out to not even be needed, as well less convenient than regular wire. I'm sure the J1-5s will last a long time. I even picked up a couple spares recently that'll go onto an engine eventually.
Mireck, I must have stated that in the article. Man, I was so conservative back then! That's why I said to use shielded wire, you know, to be on the safe side. It turned out to not even be needed, as well less convenient than regular wire. I'm sure the J1-5s will last a long time. I even picked up a couple spares recently that'll go onto an engine eventually.
09-13-04, 10:40 PM
#78
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Pele, you saw the pics of the filed down male quick disconnects in the pickup plugs, right? They're never given me a problem.
01-01-05, 03:56 PM
#79
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
I think the longest pickup wires I've ever ran are probably up to 2 feet. It never had a problem with false triggers. I've never used shielded wire. I need to update my DLIDFIS article to mention this.
I do...
Thankfully I remembered what I wanted to ask... 4 ******* months later...
Do you have any problems with missed triggers due to the signal getting weak over the distance?
How long do you think you can make the wires before you do start having problems like that?
01-01-05, 04:07 PM
#80
Never had a problem with missed triggers. I have no idea how long the wires can be before problems arise. If you experience problems, Maybe you could locate the ignitors close to the pickup and run the B and C wires a greater distance? Use large guage wires. They are pretty much immune to electrical noise because B is always on and C is a digital on and off.
09-26-05, 07:50 PM
#81
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Hi guys, nick from australia here, i have just wired up the series 5 ignition coil as a direct fire system and it works GREAT!!! better power, fuel economy and resonse!!! thankyou heaps guys for the tutorial!
nick
nick
06-20-06, 11:27 AM
#82
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Fantastic Job guys! I made 2 of them, 1 for my 80 CSP car and 1 for my 85 SE which I am currently building for ITS class running hillclimbs. The 80 Fired right up with no problems and I will add some pics and results after running the pagoda hillclimb this weekend. Thanks for all of your effort!
09-06-07, 11:14 AM
#83
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how do you guys feel this 3 ignitor setup will compare to the msd fired setup
http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html useing 1 ignitor
sorry to bring thread back from the dead but this is the best thread I looked at
http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html useing 1 ignitor
sorry to bring thread back from the dead but this is the best thread I looked at
09-06-07, 12:10 PM
#85
how do you guys feel this 3 ignitor setup will compare to the msd fired setup
http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html useing 1 ignitor
sorry to bring thread back from the dead but this is the best thread I looked at
http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html useing 1 ignitor
sorry to bring thread back from the dead but this is the best thread I looked at
without looking at that link, Im afraid to say that DLIDFIS works as good as MSD.
just kidding Jeff
01-20-08, 05:45 PM
#87
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DLIDFIS probs
Sorry guy's, must be an idiot.
Followed instructions, seemed pretty simple. Engine runs great, meter reads hot everywhere, but no tach and no keyed shutoff(I have to pull fuse to relay). It's an '83, and I got the box off an 80. I used to extra connector off box to plug right into lead BC to feed lead circuit. Flattened some pin connectors to fit in the pickup. I pulled the BC jack off the trailing, ran new wires to the coil, still attaching the Yg to the - on the T coil, and splicing in the condensor. I used the Bw wire to signal the relay, which according to the wire diagram in my Haynes is key +.
Help!
Followed instructions, seemed pretty simple. Engine runs great, meter reads hot everywhere, but no tach and no keyed shutoff(I have to pull fuse to relay). It's an '83, and I got the box off an 80. I used to extra connector off box to plug right into lead BC to feed lead circuit. Flattened some pin connectors to fit in the pickup. I pulled the BC jack off the trailing, ran new wires to the coil, still attaching the Yg to the - on the T coil, and splicing in the condensor. I used the Bw wire to signal the relay, which according to the wire diagram in my Haynes is key +.
Help!
01-24-08, 12:42 PM
#89
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Tach is fed from the Yg wire which should be going to the - on the Lead coil not the Trailing. That is assuming you don't have a MSD or Jacobs ignition system installed. The Yr wire goes to the - Trailing coil i'm pretty sure. You are correct on the Bw wire being the ignition hot. It sounds like you may have a constant power going to the relay which is causing your ignition not to work. I didn't implement a relay in my ignition so I can't say for sure but it may also be contributing to the switched trailing issue. Do you have both leading and trailing going through it? Hope that helps.
12-02-08, 08:58 AM
#90
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Ok I just recently purchased an sa with a 12a turbo with 2 6al and 2 msd blaster coils would this set up make me give up my 6al or can I still use them and should I still use them...I've seen people run 4 6al's and run ls1 coils...have any clue why its done and how to do it?
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