Hey guys. Well the tranny and clutch are working good now. Other than reverse It just grinds so If I want to go in reverse I just put it in before I start the car and start it with the clutch in. The motor was out of a 82 gsl with an auto tranny so I just took the clutch off of my 13b and put it on. Maybe I need to bleed it??? I don't know. But anyhow. I can't get this thing to go anywhere fast. I'm talking quarter mile times around a 20. At about 4500 rpm in first gear it bogs out really bad and if I go any higher than that it takes a long time to get to 7000 rpm because of the bogging and it seems like its actually loosing power above 4500 but only in first gear. In second I can run up to 7500 no bog. The same for 3,4,and 5th. I inspected the apex seals and rotor faces through the exhaust ports before installing the engine and they look great. But even in 2nd through 5th it doesn't seem like there is any real pull at all. I just can't figure out why its only doing the bogging thing in first gear. Another thing. Before I put this engine in I replaced the distributor. I didn't know I had to line it up right so that might be a prob as well. (I knew nothing at all about engines before I got into the 7's a few months back) Anyhow when I check the timing even if I turn that distributor as far as it will go the 1st timing mark is still a good 1.5 inches from the needle. I pulled the dist and tried to line it up right with the forged line in the dist shaft and dimple in the gear but when I slide the dist back down in it turns. Should I advance the dimple a little further so when it turns while inserting it it ends up in the right position? Also when I advance my timing I can see my front coil arcing to the terminal beside it.but not the rear coil just the front one. Could all this be a result of being one tooth off on the dist?

Or could it be that my fuel pump or fuel filter is maybe not supplying enough fuel to the carb in first gear? I'd imagine 1st gear would demand the highest volume of fuel per time period of all the gears. Since it revs up so much faster than the other gears. and when the engine is under a load does it consume more fuel at the same rpms than if it isn't under a load (ex. Being in gear versus being in neutral).
Any help is greatly apprieciated.
Thanks fellas

 

ok, it definatly sounds to me like a timing issue. Yank the dizzy, bring the motor to TDC, and then re-install the dizzy w/ the marks all lined up per the manual. (I think the Haynes manual has this, but I know the Fact. manual does) Check yer timing per the manual, and adjust accordingly. You're gonna want to find out why the coil's arcing like that, that can't be a good thing at all. I'd put in a new fuel filter if you didn't do that when you swapped the motor for good measure as well.

Good luck, I'm sure someone else will chime in to correct me or with other suggestions.

--matt

 

every dist. I've ever removed/replaced rotated about a quarter turn because of the helically cut drive gear. this same thing wqs in a post here the other day and the reply was to keep backing the dist. off a quarter turn.

 

same thing happened to me a few months back. Just keep backing off your dizzy untill it ends up lining up with the timing marks while running. Thats what I did anyway...

Mike

 

Hey Nipplebandit, When this happened to you were you having the same symptoms as I am?
Thanks for the replies fellas

 

Also, I'd get a compression test on that 12a. You never know if a side or conner seal got prematurally worn down or something.

 

On my distributor, There are 2 rubber O-rings. One at the bottom of the shaft and one at the top. Thats on the dist off my 83 engine. On the dist from the 82 there is no bottom rubber O-ring. I'm using the 82 engine but the 82 dist is bad so I have to use the 83 dist. When I tried to insert the 83 dist it was hard to get in and when I pulled it back out I saw the rubber o-ring had broken. Does the 82 engine need this o-ring? Should I replace it or should I just run it without it?
Thanks Guys

 

Well I got it on time now. It stopped the hesitating. But now it doesn't want to idle and the arcing is worse than ever. I'm going to replace the coil wires and see what happens

 

don't forget to get a new fuel filter. they're cheap, easy to replace, and you'd know for a fact it's no longer the cause of your probs(or aggravating other probs). swap your leading and trailing coils and see if its still arcing in the same place. if the arc moved with the coil, replace it.

 

Well the front coil was arcing so I switched the coil wires around at the coils and the rear started arcing then , no arc on the front anymore. Its pretty crazy , I can pull any one of the spark plug wires and the engine continues to run except for one. I can't remember witch on it is but if I pull that one wire the engine stalls immediately. This doesn't seem right does it? Also when I check the timing on the leading plug its right on the leading mark but when I check the trailing plug its right on the leading mark as well even when I adjust that vaccum thing.

 

I also forgot to mention that I'm using the sparkplugs out of my 13b. They have the 4 little things. I also took my air pump off. And does anyone know where that vaccum line from the back passenger of the carb hooks to. That thing sucks alot of air. I can hear it sucking over the engine.

 

That'd be your shutter valve. Your car might idle a little rough because of it. You may or maynot also get some backfiring. Take teh hose off and plug it.

 

I tried plugging it but it runs worse when I plug it.