ioTus

iTrader: (5)

What do i need to do to put a new battery (to replace the old one), in the passenger side storage bin?

Project84

Go here

and then here

The second one is a write up from a guy on this forum who put a link to it in the first link ^ up there.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

If i get one of those red top gel cell or whatever they're called, do i need a battery box?

Gizmo

http://www.rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/racecar/racecar.html

scroll down a bit

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

With a sealed Gel battery, you don't. However, I could not fit a battery box in mine, with the bin sections in place.


Notice the bins are completely removed.

Manntis

still, nice craftsmanship on that box...

EL PAALO

and super nice job on sound deadening removal

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

You like that? I can get you one for $500. Or, you can just buy it from Summit Racing for $89.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Dry-Ice and a blade are your friends.

onepointone

is that in your car? how exactly is it mounted? ive been debating taking out the storage bins or not (i know another thread) but worried about structural support. not trying to take this off topic. bu

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

No, those pics are of another car with the battery mounted in the box. I guess after re-reading the thread I could see the confusion into thinking it's mine.

I have a yelloe top optima in my passenger bin, properly bolted down, but no battery box (both don't fit.)

EDIT:

Actually, it would fit, if I removed the entire bin areas, put the battery and box in, and then built then bin area aorund them again. This was not an option to me at the time, although it might have to be if the rules change again at the racetrack.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

So how about i do this: keep the top of the passenger bin in there, but take the bottom bin carpeting out. Do a battery tie down to the base there, and run the red top battery..

Would that work? What ammount of wiring would i need to do, just extend the cables from the engine back to the battery?

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Would i need anythign else for that??

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Anywhere else "common" to put the battery rather than those bins? Mine are kinda taken up already...I was trying to justify putting in the back hatch area, but that means longer cables...

~T.J.

onepointone

i know its a different gen, but my dad put his battery all the way in the back because he has the rear seats (second gen) it wasnt too bad, he made the box himself and used some VERY thick wires. ill take some pictures if yall are interested. he was trying to get some weight out of the front of the car

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, i'm doing that, plus intercooler piping. Plust clean the engine bay up.

Pedestrian X

the longer the wires the larger gaueg you msut use.. or is it smaller gauge.. well uhhh ya know lower guage # uhhh .. well just use fattyier wires hte longer it is.

onepointone

my dad used 4g aircraft wire on his

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

Now that is good stuff

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I still dont know how to do it.....

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Remember to fuse that big thick lead going to the battery. Or else you will have a nice toasty warm fire if the wire touches metal running through the car.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

It's not hard at all.

Just pull the starter (+) wire and the (-) that goes to the strut tower and then it winds down to the bolt holding the starter. Rip those wires out off the car... Now disconnect the wire at the (+) on the alternator (tape up the old wire and wire tie it out of the way somewhere, or cut it off and tape/ which ever you prefer), run a piece of 6 awg from the alt (+) to the screw below the 3 position fuse block on the drivers strut tower. Theres a single phillips head screw there... At that same point run a piece of 6 awg wire to the place the battery is going to be, IE drivers storage compartment... Now reground the engine block to the chassis of the car. I used the bolt holding the alternator bracket to the engine, and then to the strut tower.. I used 4 awg for this.

Now you will have to run a new (+) wire to the starter, i used 4 awg for this, I wrapped the wire in 3/4" heater hose / you cant fuse this wire cause of the high current draw of the starter when it cranks, and the wire will catch on fire if it rubs and shorts against metal. So be VERY careful how you run it...BTW: I recommend drivers storage compartment for the battery, you have to run less wire and it makes it easier to get to the starter.

Now at the storage compartment, you will have 2 wires, a 4 awg red for the starter and a 6 awg red for the car. Put a 100A circuit breaker on the 6 awg wire... Connect those 2 leads to the batterys positive... Now all you have to do is run a 4 awg black ground from the battery to the frame of the car, I drilled a hole in the crossmember, and used a grade 8 nut/bolt combo, and a star washer to ground it... Of course I used all the proper ring terminal etc. I used to work in car stereo, and nothing beats accidently taking htem from work OOOOPS

Voila you are done...

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

OMG alex you removed the sound deading Really, I thought you were making a cadillac ride with some muscle lol

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

No, mine is still there. I even going to add some dynamat in the future.

I just know an effective way to remove that crap.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I figured, i was like in 'shock'

I will go back to singing all I want for x-mas is my mode 1 mariah wide body kit. Well we all know the answer to that, if they dont have it here by the jan 6th. Im calling them back and it wont be pleasant...Im a little upset about being lied to about not charging me for it till it shipped...