(DRIVETRAIN) GSL Vs. GSL-SE differentials
01-25-08, 09:30 PM
#26
FB+FC=F-ME
That only works if you have more/less traction on one rear tire, vs the other.........donuts are a better indicator.
Open,non-LSD diffs are like see-saws........if there is equal weight(load) on each side,then nothing happens and you get equal power to each tire.Putting one tire into a muddy ditch is like having a fat kid on one side of the see-saw and Calista Flockhart on the other.
Open,non-LSD diffs are like see-saws........if there is equal weight(load) on each side,then nothing happens and you get equal power to each tire.Putting one tire into a muddy ditch is like having a fat kid on one side of the see-saw and Calista Flockhart on the other.
01-26-08, 11:37 AM
#27
I have an SE and a late non-SE ring gear in my hands,both are fine pitch gears so they have a lot more teeth than yours....53 and 59.
With only 43 teeth on yours,Id say you have an older gearset from an earlier car with the coarse gears.If the diff is LSD,then you have an 81-82ish GSL third member.The SE diff isnt really a big deal,the 4.07 gearset is only a slight difference from the 3.90 ratio of the other 1st gens.Plus,the SE LSD is actually inferior to the GSL units.I recently switched back to the 3.909 gearset to gain more MPH per gearshift....didnt really make much difference.If you really want an SE ratio,Ill sell you my old SE gearset for cheap and you can use my rebuild threads to put it all together.
See my two archieved rearend rebuild threads to see the difference between the GSL and SE diffs......
With only 43 teeth on yours,Id say you have an older gearset from an earlier car with the coarse gears.If the diff is LSD,then you have an 81-82ish GSL third member.The SE diff isnt really a big deal,the 4.07 gearset is only a slight difference from the 3.90 ratio of the other 1st gens.Plus,the SE LSD is actually inferior to the GSL units.I recently switched back to the 3.909 gearset to gain more MPH per gearshift....didnt really make much difference.If you really want an SE ratio,Ill sell you my old SE gearset for cheap and you can use my rebuild threads to put it all together.
See my two archieved rearend rebuild threads to see the difference between the GSL and SE diffs......
The SE LSD is not at all inferior to the GSL. There was a lot more thought put into the SE LSD and the suspension to allow it to lock up, but not waste time fishtailing-----thus the 15.9 second 1/4 mile. The difference is only in the discs and how they lock up. For an SE, the SE LSD is the best due to its torque characteristics.
Mike
01-26-08, 02:58 PM
#28
No distributor? No thanks
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.... which has nothing to do with the OP's question. He knows he has an Limited Slip - just not whether it's a GSL or GSL-SE unit. Come on people, please read.
01-26-08, 08:23 PM
#29
FB+FC=F-ME
The SE LSD is not at all inferior to the GSL. There was a lot more thought put into the SE LSD and the suspension to allow it to lock up, but not waste time fishtailing-----thus the 15.9 second 1/4 mile. The difference is only in the discs and how they lock up. For an SE, the SE LSD is the best due to its torque characteristics.
Mike
Mike
As I stated in my previous posts,the SE unit itself is identical to the GSL except for the stacking order and type of discs used.It may be more ideal for a stock GSL-SE,I would leave that to a Mazda engineer to answer why exactly they choose to make it that way they did.But since many guys here are into HP,burnouts,donuts,drifting and other "greater than factory" type setups and situations,I reffer to the GSL-SE limited slip as being "inferior" and heres why........
Notice the sheared drive tabs on the single right side driven disc of this GSL-SE LSD?...........
01-28-08, 10:04 PM
#31
FB+FC=F-ME
Just be sure you dont exceed the total thickness allowable for the disc pack.
The new specs are 2MM per disc with a total of 4.That makes for an 8MM thick friction pack regardless of how you stack/arrange the discs.If you have good condition used discs and add thicker than new discs or use ALL thicker than new discs,then you might exceed the total thickness that can be installed behind the cone spring.Basically,youll bottom out and flatten the spring before the LSD case halves come together and youll either break the housing or you wont ever be able to get it together.
My archieved thread on LSD rebuilding shows you how to measure and determine what amount of clearance you have left for spring compression based on the condition of the discs you are going to use.
The spec is 0-.2MM of clearance.I only had .11MM of clearance left before my cone springs were flattened and basically just functioning as shims,even with used LSD discs I had.The high performance discs are +.1MM thick over stock,so I would not have been able to add them to my stack.
The new specs are 2MM per disc with a total of 4.That makes for an 8MM thick friction pack regardless of how you stack/arrange the discs.If you have good condition used discs and add thicker than new discs or use ALL thicker than new discs,then you might exceed the total thickness that can be installed behind the cone spring.Basically,youll bottom out and flatten the spring before the LSD case halves come together and youll either break the housing or you wont ever be able to get it together.
My archieved thread on LSD rebuilding shows you how to measure and determine what amount of clearance you have left for spring compression based on the condition of the discs you are going to use.
The spec is 0-.2MM of clearance.I only had .11MM of clearance left before my cone springs were flattened and basically just functioning as shims,even with used LSD discs I had.The high performance discs are +.1MM thick over stock,so I would not have been able to add them to my stack.
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