Mushy feeling suspension
02-27-15, 08:15 AM
#1
Triangles and Cats
Thread Starter
Mushy feeling suspension
My s5 vert has a sort of dead zone at the neutral steering position which makes the car feel FAR less responsive than id like it to. Its not that it doesnt steer at all in this area, but its much softer and i feel like its worsening my turn-in. I dont know what i can do to it thatll help.
Heres whats been done to it so far:
Bilstein shocks/struts
Racing beat vert springs
Mazdatrix oem replacement spring seats
Racing beat front upper strut mounts
Racing beat front sway (no rear sway at all)
On michelin pilot super sport tires
I dont know if changing my alignment would help, or perhaps getting one of the bushing kits that racing beat sells, i have no idea
Heres whats been done to it so far:
Bilstein shocks/struts
Racing beat vert springs
Mazdatrix oem replacement spring seats
Racing beat front upper strut mounts
Racing beat front sway (no rear sway at all)
On michelin pilot super sport tires
I dont know if changing my alignment would help, or perhaps getting one of the bushing kits that racing beat sells, i have no idea
02-27-15, 08:43 AM
#3
Triangles and Cats
Thread Starter
02-28-15, 02:36 PM
#6
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if you haven't aligned the car, i would. the stock alignment feels really planted, but it isn't very responsive either.
for the front, you want to rotate the strut tops so the strut is to the inside and rear (the strut isn't centered in the strut top). this gives the maximum negative camber (around -0.5), and positive caster.
for toe in, zero, or close to it, feels the best.
in the rear, stock negative camber is around -1.3, and that seems to work well.
rear toe makes a huge difference. stock runs a lot of rear toe, and its very stable. zero rear toe makes the car turn in way better, but unless you can be on the gas in a turn, it doesn't feel as stable. the toe adjuster bolts are marked, and ii start at zero, and then add a mark per side until i'm happy.
for the front, you want to rotate the strut tops so the strut is to the inside and rear (the strut isn't centered in the strut top). this gives the maximum negative camber (around -0.5), and positive caster.
for toe in, zero, or close to it, feels the best.
in the rear, stock negative camber is around -1.3, and that seems to work well.
rear toe makes a huge difference. stock runs a lot of rear toe, and its very stable. zero rear toe makes the car turn in way better, but unless you can be on the gas in a turn, it doesn't feel as stable. the toe adjuster bolts are marked, and ii start at zero, and then add a mark per side until i'm happy.
02-28-15, 03:01 PM
#7
if you haven't aligned the car, i would. the stock alignment feels really planted, but it isn't very responsive either.
for the front, you want to rotate the strut tops so the strut is to the inside and rear (the strut isn't centered in the strut top). this gives the maximum negative camber (around -0.5), and positive caster.
for toe in, zero, or close to it, feels the best.
in the rear, stock negative camber is around -1.3, and that seems to work well.
rear toe makes a huge difference. stock runs a lot of rear toe, and its very stable. zero rear toe makes the car turn in way better, but unless you can be on the gas in a turn, it doesn't feel as stable. the toe adjuster bolts are marked, and ii start at zero, and then add a mark per side until i'm happy.
for the front, you want to rotate the strut tops so the strut is to the inside and rear (the strut isn't centered in the strut top). this gives the maximum negative camber (around -0.5), and positive caster.
for toe in, zero, or close to it, feels the best.
in the rear, stock negative camber is around -1.3, and that seems to work well.
rear toe makes a huge difference. stock runs a lot of rear toe, and its very stable. zero rear toe makes the car turn in way better, but unless you can be on the gas in a turn, it doesn't feel as stable. the toe adjuster bolts are marked, and ii start at zero, and then add a mark per side until i'm happy.
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02-28-15, 06:36 PM
#8
Triangles and Cats
Thread Starter
02-28-15, 07:36 PM
#9
If the rubber bushings on the car are shot, it will never feel right. Inspect everything first, check for excessive play, fix any problems you find, then get an alignment and it will be good.
The rear wheels should not move at all if you shake them in the air.
The fronts should not move up and down, but they may move very slightly left to right. If they do make sure the movement is in the steering rack, not at the wheel, ball joint or tie rod ends.
The rear wheels should not move at all if you shake them in the air.
The fronts should not move up and down, but they may move very slightly left to right. If they do make sure the movement is in the steering rack, not at the wheel, ball joint or tie rod ends.
02-28-15, 07:47 PM
#10
Triangles and Cats
Thread Starter
If the rubber bushings on the car are shot, it will never feel right. Inspect everything first, check for excessive play, fix any problems you find, then get an alignment and it will be good.
The rear wheels should not move at all if you shake them in the air.
The fronts should not move up and down, but they may move very slightly left to right. If they do make sure the movement is in the steering rack, not at the wheel, ball joint or tie rod ends.
02-28-15, 08:42 PM
#14
Triangles and Cats
Thread Starter
Heh well see the funny thing is that since i got my springs and shocks i actually never got the car aligned. I just wanted to find out what other factors might be involved. But now i know what direction to go with my alignment (which ill most likely get done next week)
02-28-15, 08:59 PM
#16
Triangles and Cats
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