I bought a 90 Auto GTU shell with no motor or transmission. I also bought a wrecked 90 5spd GTU with a well running driveline. I pulled the motor/trans/em harness/ecu/afm/etc. from the wrecked car and put it directly into the auto shell. I used the battery/starter (engine) harness from the auto car as the manual one did not mate with my front harness.

I have read in a few write ups that you need to run a few wires for the clutch interlock switch and reverse lights to function. I do not care about the clutch interlock switch and will do the reverse lights later. I have not ran any extra wires. Everything is 100% stock.

When I go to try and start the car, there is nothing from the starter. The fuel pump primes and i get power in the cabin but it does not crank over. I am getting 12.5V from the battery and the same at the main fuse. I feel like it is just a missing wire somewhere. All grounds look good.

Any ideas? I didn't have time to mess with it tonight but I will have more time tomorrow. Just looking for any tips or insight.

Thanks

 

Sounds like you have to focus on the bypassing of the "inhibitor switch plug" as this is part of the Engine harness, which prevents an auto from starting while in gear.

 

I've done it on S4.. There you have to take the plug that goes to the transmission plug, jumper two pins and run a wire off one of those two to the starter signal terminal.
I vaguely remember glancing at the S5 pinout and thinking it was similar..

 

The Inhibitor Switch plug has three wires; B/G, B/R and R/G. B/G is jumpered to B/R.

 

thanks, ill try this tomorrow. do you know if i need to run another wire to the starter?

 

From looking at the S5 wiring diagram I garnered the following info. B/G runs from the Starter Cut relay to the Inhibitor switch. B/R runs from the Inhibitor switch to the starter. If you have a B/R wire connected to the starter solenoid then do a continuity test involving the solenoid pin wire which is B/R and the B/R wire in the Inhibitor switch plug. If it rings out then you're okay there. The B/R wire also should go to the Circuit Opening relay and the fan.

If you used the Front harness from the Auto then the B/R wire also needs to be mated w/connector X-08 which is Black and located near the area of the trailing coil. Normally one side runs to the fan and Circuit Opening relay while the other side goes to the same wire at the starter solenoid. If the wire that is at the solenoid also splits off and runs to this Black connector then the single jumper wire is all that should be needed. If not, then the B/R wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the B/R wire found at the inhibitor switch also needs to run to this connector so it can mate up and supply the proper voltage signal to the Circuit Opening relay and fan.

 

ok, ill try that later today. all of the wiring is from the auto car except the EM harness (which should be the same anyways IIRC)

 

i got it working...

two issues...i needed to jumper the two bottom wires on the inhibitor switch plug. also, the ground that goes onto the starter bolt was bolted to one of the engine->tranny bolts. once those two were fixed, it turned over. the battery is too weak to start it but i'm charging it now and will try tomorrow

 

Actually I believe that ground was in the correct location... 50-17 on the wiring diagram shows the grounding tab going up to that engine-trans bolt.

 

i dunno...it wasn't working there. i was getting voltage to the starter signal wire and nothing. i took the starter out and hooked it directly to the battery and it worked. put it back in, changed the ground and it turned over. i thought it would work either place but who knows.

 

Hmm.. Weird.. I'm pretty sure I have the tab on the transmission bolt on my auto swap.. Maybe it's just not getting a very good connection between the starter and the bell-housing.