I recently noticed on my GXL that the oil filler neck is rusted on the inside. What are my options to fixing this? Replacement? How much $$? How hard?? Thanks in advance!

 

Find a used one - there's enough people blowing motors that kill housings that don't need those things.

They are just friction fit - pull hard enough, and it'll pop out.



-Ted

 

More to the point regarding your rusty filler tube; It should not be rusty. If it is then the only cause is moisture in your oil pan. This is caused by two things. One is the purge system not working. This system is much like the positive crancase ventilator system in piston engines. It pulls a slight vacuum in the oil pan to "suck" moisture out. If it isn't working then the results are obvious.

A more ominous problem is the leaking of coolant into the pan. Look at your filler cap after an hour or three of driving the car. If there is moisture condensed on it then I would be highly suspect of a coolant leak, particularly if you are losing coolant. The most likley problem is a failing o ring, but leaking expansion plugs located on the front end housing will dribble coolant directly into the pan.

 

Thanks for the reply's. Is there any way to test either of those 2 theories, so I can pinpoint the problem?

 

There is a test described in the Mazda factory manual for checking the purge system. It is a simple test if memory serves correctly. I believe you warm your engine, rev it to over 2,000RPM and make certain there is vacuum present at the rubber line that attaches to the oil filler neck.

As for the coolant, if you are having to add coolant to your engine then there is your answer. There are sophisticated labrotory tests to check oil for the presence of anti-freeze as well.

A simple cooling system test is to pressurize the system on a cold engine with a special hand pump that attaches to the coolant filler neck in place of the regular cap. You pump the system to 15Lbs. pressure and leave it set for a specified period of time. Any pressure drop indicates a leaky coolant system. Where the leak is is a matter of eliminating the obvious places and going from there.

The expansion plugs I spoke of in the previous post are quarter sized pieces of metal located on the front end housing behing the timing cover. If these are leaking you can replace them without removing the engine from the car, but if the leak is from the coolant sealing o rings between the housings a major overhaul is required.

 

Now that you say that, I have been needing to add coolant to my overflow tank. I notice it reading low about 1 time every month and a half to 2 months. Obviously not a fast leak, but significant enough....... Looks like failing o-rings......or the expansion plug problem........DANGIT!!!!!! Poor car

Any reason why I should not wait to fix this problem? Or do I have some time?

 

time frame for these repairs?

 

^

 

The rate of coolant loss you describe is minimal. I would think you have a relatively minor leak.

You may wish to consider the addition of a premium type of stop leak additive. While this is no permanant repair and I generally advise against using it you may find help here.

The problem with internal leaks is they almost always get bigger. If I were you I would go the stop leak route as soon as possible and be considering an overhaul in the near future.

 

Hey sorry to threadjack. But is there any reason why my oil filler tube is really loose? It keeps popping out under load and comes out quite easily.

 

If I remember correctly, there is an O-ring that keeps the tub in place. Maybe it is missing?

 

Any idea what size it is? I appreciate the help!