I have dumped way too much time and money into this car.... Car has had the following done to it watch it burn.

Newer engine
Racing beat springs
Megan strut bar
New top
H4 headlight conversion
New Black carpet
17 inch wheels

New starter, battery, fuel pump, clutch, alternator, injectors cleane.. more..

It keeps flooding itself and will not stay running. I just spent $80 today on new fuel filter, sock, and oil change.

Car floods itself out. Runs for 2 seconds then dies then will not restart. I have done the "UNFLOODING PROceedure" 20 times today, count it 20 times... I also pulled it around the block 3 times and it would just fall on it's face. Compression was 95-95-95 100-100-100 before I put the cleaned injectors in there..

I am out of patience and am thinking about setting it on fire for fun...

 

Go for it.

 

don't do it man!
think of the money you will lose out on.

 

Hey come to think of it we did a swap motor about a year ago. some how when we pulled the motor we messed up a wire that was inthe car by the glove box. re wired it and it was fine. The wire was brown never looked to see what it was 2. but it was doing the same thing yours is doing now.
so i would look over the wiring and make sure it all cool.

 

Never give up, you'll be sad you did.

 

AFM unplugged?

 

Sounds fun but sell me the top first
Matt

 

I may part it out. I am really tierd. I took 2 days off work to screw with this....

Car was running poorly before then I fixed the fuel issue but now it stays flooded..

Check the parts for sale on tuesday if it's not running by then she's up for sale in the parts section.

 

if your going to just set fire to a car like that then you should save the trouble of cleaning up the mess by selling the car to me!

 

Have you tried checking the FPR? swapping em out or anything? What type of fuel pump are you running? Are you sure there are no clogs in the fuel lines, like either after the primaries and before the secondaries (reason for NO power...) Maybe the return line is clogged and the Fuel pressure just rises to the sky, just some things to check (basically whats the pressure at the injectors). are the injectors you put in the right impedence? Thats all the random things I would check to start off with man. If you KNOW for fact by gauge that none of these things are wrong, then post back, maybe someone will have more ideas... and if not youcould always set it on fire then... but if ya get hell bent on settin it ablaze lemme know and i will gladly get it outta your sight.

- Chris

 

Well If it's not up by monday, $500 minus the wheels and Mufflers- will include stock s5 gxl's....

 

Where is the FPR.... Please don't tell me "under the UIM"

I may swap out the Fuel rail on the secondarys.. How can you tell the difference between High and low impeedance injectors cause I had a drawer full and just sent out 4 simialr ones..

 

Ok, I had one wrong injector in there... Don't know how that happened. But it still won't start..

 

FPR's rarely fail, and if they do it will usually be in the low pressure position.

I suspect the AFM.
Clip an ohmmeter on the signal pins & work the flap.
The values go up and down in even steps if it's OK.
If the meter readings jump erratically, the ECU will freak & flood the motor.

 

Knock this off the list..

Fuel return is good
All injectors are NOW proper impeedance
All Sensors calibrated
Good spark, new plugs
Timing set dead on.

Somebody help me..

Also if watching it burn sounds good send $5 to my paypal if 100 people send $5 I will burn it to the ground on tuesday. NO JOKE!

 

Have you checked the AFM like 2 others have suggested? You've responded but not mentioned a thing about checking that. Sell it.

 

sounds like a decent sized vacuum leak in the intake system.

NZ did an example of how to make a end tank to pressurize the intake system to find leaks, try that and i bet you find the problem.

 

I agree on vacuum... sounds like a major vacuum leak somewhere. Can you start the car and keep it running with the accelerator pressed?

 

+1

 

burn it burn it!!!!!!

 

Checked the AFM and even swapped it out. It will not start at all... UGG... Vacuem leak huh?.. Guess I could pull the UIM back off and check it out.

 

Just sell it to someone who is going to fix it rather than waste what could be a good FC.

 

yeah, dont burn it. give it to someone who will give a good home and fix it. setting it on fire may be fun for you, but everyone else might hate you for it and all the parts they may have gotten.

 

Stop your biatching or we're going to start calling you "The FC Emo Kid"

Seriously, you're starting to sound like me. At least you have your car running for a few seconds. My car just cranks and doesn't want to run at all, AND it has broken both door handles, AND the rear hatch lock (therefore I can't get into the car to start troubleshooting it), AND it's parked illegally on campus.

I've heard of your problem before a few times recently on this forum and if it runs (@ around 4.5K rpm) for a few seconds and dies, it's a bad AFM. It happened to me earlier and I fixed it. Just go to the junkyard and get an AFM or two and try swapping them into your car (s4 and s5 are not interchangable though). There's no point in complaining to us about sand in your cooter if you don't try out what we recommend.

As a knowledgable friend on this forum I refer to as "The RX7 Cleric" told me many PM's ago when I was in a similar emo-going-to-burn-my-****-to-the-ground situation:

"I think you have a lot of basic rx-7 stuff to do. The 1st thing anyone should do when purchasing a rx7 is to check for vacuum leaks (take off the airflow meter cover it with a couple layers of plastic wrap, and reinstall it. Use the pressure sensor line to pressurize the intake tract (~5psi)). Listen for leaks under the manifold, and at any valve attached to the intake tract.

THEN the second thing to do is to check all ecu inputs/outputs at the ecu to make sure the values are within spec (there is a list in chapter 4 of the fact manual) and check the ecu input voltage using the ecu ground versus the ecu input voltage using the chassis as ground. If the voltage using the chassis ground is higher you should add ground to your engine and re-ground the ecu. If everything is ok, then start fine tuning the tps/variable resistor, etc...

THEN, wire the fuel injectors to their rails, remove the rails (just far enough to get the tips of the injectors out of the intake manifold). Turn the ignition on and jump the fuel pump connector (green, near the pressure sensor) and make sure the injectors don't leak.

THEN, since someone messed with your fuel pump circuit, make sure the hot start function (I think that's what it is called) is working, aka the fuel pump is getting 10V (or whatever it is suppose to get) under certain conditions and 12V under others (check the fact man).

On the plugs on average they should be changed every 3 to 5 k miles, my turbo will eat them in about 2k, the vert in about 3k."

Unfortunately as a full time student with two jobs, I've decided to give up on my NA and concentrate on buying a good turbo FC. But I'm not going to give up completely on my NA, I'm going to make it into a stripped out all-handling track car. As a matter of fact, I think now I'll try to get my car running before you can get yours running just to show you off. I don't know when I'll be able to work on it though, classes start this upcomming week

 

That looks like a nice clean vert. Don't bun it!