I finaly got around to finding out why this car likes to spin out in the rain or hard l/h turns. The r/h lateral link is sloppy. The nut on the aft end will not tighten because the ball joint is rotating inside. These lateral link ends are just like tie rod ends, right? Tapered hole? Got a general idea of the price new(thanksgiving day, can't call). Reccon I can just apply massive pressure on the top while tightening the nut? Wore out right now, going to try that in an hour or so.

 

if you are referring to the rear suspension link then yes it is just like a ball joint, and forcing the tapper deeper into the hole may allow you to tighten it. I would check that the hole is not gouged badly before just tightening the nut.

 

Previous owner, Richard Head, had put some grease in the bore and was using a oddball nut to retain it. Could'nt get enough down pressure to tighten it or loosen it. Cut off with a Dremel tool and got a new used one from the wrecking yard for fifteen bucks plus tax. Cleaned grease out and installed. Pleased as punch with the new Eibachs, Tokico and camber adjuster for the rear end. Interesting experience watching the fellow at the wreck yard remove the part from the wrecking yard car. Takes nuts off, and instead of using conventional ball joint removal tool, gets a very large hammer and slams the hub area where the ball joint is installed. Part was now loose enough to lift off by hand. I'm a little leary about this method. Gotta watch out and make sure I don't buy the hub off that particular car in the future.

 

glad you got that fixed, and the wrecking guy just showed you a very easy trick for most ball joint type connections. the hammer knock will release the tappered bolt from the friction lock of the cast iron hub. not a problem hitting the hub as long as you don't beat on it for ten minutes. this method does preserve the ball joint boot alot better than the traditional pickle fork though. best method is a small fixed jaw puller, but it takes some time to connect and the hammer takes only a second.

 

Tims, thanks for the heads up on the removal. I'll adjust my attitude towards this method. Good enough for you, good enough for me. Avoid excessive beating is the lesson and use good judgement.

 

Since we're on the subject of lateral links....does anybody know where I can get new dust boots for the lateral link ends? The dust boots on my 90 GXL are the originals and show signs of severe weathering. The dealer does not sell replacement boots --I'd need to buy a new lateral link which lists for $150.

I noticed that Energy Suspension sells various sizes of replacement dust boots for tie rod ends. I'm thinking that I can use these dust boots, but would need to know the outside diameters of the stud base and housing. Can anyone help me out here? Or if anyone has already bought these boots from Energy Suspension and has p/n's, than that info would be greatly appreciated?

Happy holidays,

Larry Mizerka
90 RX7 GXL