I tried to get some info on the turbo FB mailing system, but it seems that the info I get is slightly confusing.
Some people even said I couldn't use a 12A front cover on my TII engine!?
Anyway, this is my problem: I have a S5 TII, and plan on putting it in my S2 car. Not really a big deal, apart from the fact that I have no idea how to connect an oil metering pump. As far as I know, a S5 engine has a electronic OMP, right? (well, it does, as I just took it of ) I guess that's controlled by the ECU. Since I'm going to run a Wolf 3D instead, I haven't got an idea of how to use the electronic OMP. So I thought: no problem, just put a 12A or 13B NA OMP on it.
But, of course: where will the connecting rod go then???
The S5 throtlle body doesn't have a provision for this, due to the fact that it has a electric OMP. Any tips are welcome! Possible with pics, that's a lot easier to understand.
Thanks,
Bart

 

The easiest way would be to skip it and run on premix

 

I knew that'd come up...
But I really don't feel like throwing in a bottle of oil every time I'm at the gas station. It's just a bit to complicated for me, I'm a lazy person, you know

 

I went with premix for my S4 T2 swap. Removed everything that has to do with the OMP. So all I got is a block off plate.

I used a GSL-SE front cover and I think the S4 OMP will bolt up. You'll need 4 oil injector lines, the 12a OMP only has 2.

And yea, if you're using a S5 throttle body, you may have problems. Suggest you search over in the 2nd gen section.

Good Luck,

Scott

p.s. funny though alot of S5 guys are trying to figure out how to ditch the OMP.

 

Didn't Atkins have omps for this situation?

http://www.atkinsrotary.com

 

I run a stock FB OMP, with no metering rod. This way it's always on "MAX", as that is the fail-safe position in case the metering rod breaks.

Only disadvantage is a little too much oil during idling or cruising.

I'd rather keep it this way rather than pre-mixing.

 

Thanks DF, I was kinda hoping you'd reply
We all know you're car makes a lot of ponnies, so the system you use probable works.
I didn't know there was a "fail-safe" position, but this does make it it easier. Maybe a S4 OMP (NA) could work then aswell. I have a spare one of those, and they have four exits for oil, so no need to splice up the lines.
Thanks,
Bart

 

I am not sure is the S4 OMP will bolt up to the
the FB Front Cover.

I have a GSL-SE OMP, and it has 4 outputs, but
I only use two (to the Rotorhousings).

 

just checked them. the S4 ones are pretty different...
one hole lines up, but the other one is really off.
I think I can make the pump fit, but it will be converted to external feed. So instead of burning engine oil, it'll use two-stroke from an extra reservoir. Between the pump and the cover I'll have to close the opening off that normally feeds the oil through.
If it wouldn't work, I'll simply use a 12A OMP. But I think it's a nice little project.

 

The 12a metering oil pumps are different than the S4 ones. However, The GSL-SE metering pump is exactly the same as the S4 ones. Same mazda part number too.

Rotary emotions, what you really need to do is get a GSL-SE front cover. That will allow you to use the OMP, plus it has a perfect spot to tap for a tubo oil return.

 

there's no affordable way of getting a GSL-SE front cover... I'm in Europe, we never got any GSL-SE's, so if I want a front cover, I'd either have to buy one from Mazda (new one, guess the price!) or import one from the USA, and that'd cost more for shipping then the cover is worth.
Besides, many Australian guys have done TII swaps using 12A front covers, so it must be possible... The hole for the oil return isn't a real problem. It's a simple matter of drilling, tapping and twisting in a metric to AN adaptor. The oil metering pump is also not very hard.
My main problem (the activating rod) would be just the same with a GSL-SE cover, btw.

 

yeah I see your point. Wait a sec, did you guys get the 12a turbo over there? It just might be the same cover as the GSL-SE.

 

A Series III Front cover should be the same as an SE one.

 

nope they're not, I had that problem a while ago. I had the front cover from my old 12a, and one from a GSL-SE and they are different.

Bolt pattern for the omp is the same on all 12a front covers(dont know about the 12a turbo though), but the pattern is different on the GSL-SE (same as S4 FC)

 

You had an 84/85 front cover and it was different from an SE one?

Any pics?

 

I'll have to go to my friends house, where I have my old 12a block. But, the 12a OMP wont even bolt up to the GSL-SE font cover. (different bolt pattern) Belive me, I've tried, which is why I run premix now.

 

the S3 12A is no different then the S2 (front cover wise that is)
But it's all not that important: a 12A OMP will be ok on a 13B. I just wasn't sure about how to make it work. The S5 tb doesn't allow the rod to be connected. Since you can leave it of (and run max. oil) it's ok to use a 12A OMP. I might try to fit the S4 OMP in a modified form, in that case I'll only need the drive-shaft to align (which it does) and not the oil passage.
One bolt will lign up, the other one will be drilled and tapped. I'll use a thin sheet of alu (or something like that) as a gasket, together with sealant. The OP can then be modified to accept oil from a external reservoir, as said before. This is rather easy: the "chamber" in the OMP is drilled an a pipe is inserted. I have some explanation about how exactly this works, but I'll have to search for it first.

BTW: we didn't get 12AT. The UK firm Elford did have a turbo kit, but that's different.