2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

What is the most commonly destroyed suspension part on installation?

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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:01 AM
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Question What is the most commonly destroyed suspension part on installation?

So, I'm planning on new springs, struts, swaybar, and bushings. This is on a 1990 Convertable.

- Black Hyper-Flex Complete Polyurethane Master Bushing Set
- Eibach TII Springs, Pro-Kit
- KYB AJX dampners
- GXL Front Swaybar

But I want to be in, and out within a day as this is my daily driver. I want to know ahead of time from experience: What suspension peice is most likely to already be broken (and me not know it) and what will I most likely break taking the suspension apart?

I know most of these bolts will be rusted, so if anyone knows the sizes for the bolts I could get ahead of time, that would be awesome as well.

Also any tips from the masters on tricks to getting this done right, and done faster, would be greatly apreciated.

This is my 500th post, I spend too much time here :-p
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:15 AM
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The stabilizer way bar that comes standard on the verts is the same as the Turbo, so you would be only going with a weaker bar using the GXL bar.

(BTW, only motor homes have sway bars, or anti-sway bars). Cars have stabilizer bars.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:30 AM
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i hope you have direct acces to pnumatic tools, spring compressors, and a hydraulic press if you want to have any hope of getting this all done in one day. ive heard of a bushing install taking dome guys a week or so depending on several factors. good luck, i will be very impressed if you get it all done in one day.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:44 AM
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Did you need directions on how do it? I dont think it should be much different than on a t2 (shocks/spings). Do a search under my name for kyb agx product review.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:50 AM
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Andrew: I do have access to all those tools, minus the press. The bushings I will be getting help on. But thanks for the warning that it might take a week, I might have to look for somone who has done it on an RX-7 before . . .

Thanks Icemark for the heads up on my oversights.

And Mr. EatRicers, yes, I saw your post , it was very helpful, you'll notice I was the first to post on it In fact, I even posted first on the Pre-Thread :-p

Thanks to everyone for your replies so far.


Last edited by Tofuball; Mar 23, 2004 at 01:02 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 04:12 AM
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Originally posted by Icemark
The stabilizer way bar that comes standard on the verts is the same as the Turbo, so you would be only going with a weaker bar using the GXL bar.
I thought the TII, GXL, and Sport all used the same "big" bar? Are the TII bars really bigger then my Sport's?
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by Kai
I thought the TII, GXL, and Sport all used the same "big" bar? Are the TII bars really bigger then my Sport's?
On the S4, yes that is correct. The 'vert, Sport, GTU, GXL, and Turbo used the same "heavy duty" stabilizer bars in the USA. While the SE, Base, Luxury (anything without 5 lugs) used the smaller bars.

On the S5, only the Turbos built after #708021 and the verts used the heavy duty bar in the USA.

But the Turbos before #708021 and all the S5 coupes coupes (including the GTUs) used the same standard duty bar (which actually was the same basic bar (other than end link mounts) as the heavy duty S4 versions.)

Last edited by Icemark; Mar 23, 2004 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 05:34 PM
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I would say that if you are needing to remove the rear-hubs, that you should have on hand rear-steer eliminators. My rear-hubs disinigrated the rear-steer bushings upon removal...
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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From: Silver Spring, MD
Hrm, thank you for the warning
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 02:08 AM
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Also, if you have the money it might be a good idea to replace the stock rubber the springs seat into. It would add up in cost.

Also, a good torque wrench is a good idea when doing the work. You might need a set of crows feet to use the torque wrench on the different nuts and bolts.

James
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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I doubt that you'll be able to do everything in a day because you'll probably have to contend with removing some rusted bolts. It's probably easiest to do it in steps, i.e., front struts, rear shocks, front bushings, etc. Use anti-seize on the bolts when reassembling. I've had the polyurethane bushings (PU) on front end of my 90 GXL, but didn't like the way the car handled with them so I put the stock bushings back. If you're putting PU bushings into the rear trailing arms, than that alone will probably take you a day or more since you'll have to remove, or at least partially, the rear subframe. The rear DTSS bushing may be a bitch to remove too. Sometimes the bolts that go through the DTSS bushings will seize to the inner bushing sleeve, and the only way to remove them will be to torch the rubber bushing. BTW, I'd recommend getting rid of the DTSS bushings which are biggest POS Mazda ever put on these cars. Anyways, I'm sure you'll enjoy your car more after this job is done.

Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL
02 Acura RSX-S
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 09:44 AM
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I took out my old suspension and replaced it with new stuff in about 2-3 hours. This was with the help of a friend and all the proper tools (electric impact gun, spring compressors, etc.) I'm not sure how long the other stuff will take but the bushings should probably take the longest. I would say its a one day deal.
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