Ok i want to know if a 83 has a timing chain or belt. I think this might be my problem with the engine freezing. The lower pulley doesn't want to budge not even the flywheel. What can be the problem...

 

neither.

The timing on an RX7 is controlled directly by gears.

Timing is for cams on most engines...beings a rotory engine has no cams...well...you get the idea...the only timing on our engines is what's controlled by the dist/CAS.

 

most likely if you can't turn th engine over (you should be able to do it by hand) then the engine is locked down. This can be caused by a lack of lubrication allowing the rotors and seals to eat into the housings, eventually binding the engine...only thing I can think of.

 

Most timming chains/belts time the camshaft to the crank. The distributor is still gear driven off of the cam in most gas piston/cyl engins. Since there are no valves or cam in a rotary you have no timming chain/belt.

 

The only chain in the rotary (located inside the front cover) is the one that drives the main oil pump. This is not to be confused with the oil METERING pump, which is driven by a small gear.
Since rotaries "don't need no stinkin' valve train" there's no timing chain, belt, or gear.

 

is it possible that the oil pump can lock with it lock up the whole engine. Because i want to rebuild, but i gotta know whats wrong before i start taking things apart. what can be a sign for the lower pulley locking and not moving?

 

Ok, this actually HAPPENED TO ME. pull off the front cover. (you have to lift the engine up first) Pull off the gears- simple key system with a nut holding it back.

behind the main pulley, there is a roller bearing. On the 88 TII engine that IoTus and I put in his engine, the bearing was AFU, and it kept the engine from turning over. We ended up going to a junkyard, and pulling an engine apart in the junkyard to do this. (we used a bearing out of a 1st gen 12a- worked great)


NOTE: if you decide to do this in a junkyard, if you can't find a way to keep the engine from turning over, and you assume that engine to be shot, drop some nuts/bolts down the carbuerator- that will lock up an engine quicker than ****!!!

*ducks flames for deliberately screwing up an engine* Hey, I only did it once, and it HAD to be done!!

 

OMG! You bastard! That could have been some one's desperately needed engine!




















:p

 

There were 3 others in there... *R.I.P.* So sad, you know? it's almost like a graveyard... spooky, especially when you see the spiderweb on the windshield just above the steering wheel....

 

Or the moldy spots all over the interior .

~T.J.

 

I remember going to a junkyard looking for parts and they had a few FB's there. One still had all the glass and doors. I went and looked at it...when I opened the door two mice ran OUT...I thought it was funny...too crowded inside...

 

I hope its that bearing like you say, but its better then getting no response at all. Awhile ago i tried taking off that front engine cover. I had my socket wrench on that lower pulley nut and i was pulling to take it off when my dame socket wrench broke... Is there a bit of a easier way of taken that bolt rather then me busting all my wrench's. One more question how much does the engine to the 81 weigh?

 

Carbon lock.

Carbon builds up in any engine. Normally as the engine operates parts of it will break off, burn up, and exit through the exhaust. When the engine is only ran for very short periods of time the heat cycling of the engine too can make the carbon flake off. On rotary engines the carbon can fall and get jammed inbetween the apex seal and the rotor housing, because the apex seals' edges are rounded. This can cause the motor to lock up.

Try the famous/notorious ATF/MMO treatment to soften the carbon. Then just do what you can to work it loose.