tBoWzeR

i am looking either(first rotary i'm gonna buy) for a n/a or turbo II FC. Is their an advantage of the n/a FC
over the turbo II version? Is thier more potential in the n/a version? any more info would be a help.
thanks,
tBoWzer



MUSTANG





01' Black WS6 M6
mods:
SLP cold air lid
SLP smooth bellow
K&N filter
BMR strut tower brace
BMR tie rod
BMR panhard rod
BMR lower control arms
Hotchkis springs
soon 2 come:
shorty headers, y-pipe
slp cat back
upgraded shox

ninetyfourfd3s

Turbo II is definately the way to go, the motor is stronger, the tranny as well, and you should gain more power with bolt ons. If I'm not mistaken the only way to make real power with a N/A 13b is aggressive porting(bridge or peripheral), and with that you lose some streetablility. It would seem easier just to go with a bigger turbo than porting...

Regardless of your choice, good luck.

87GTR

iTrader: (61)

na fc with bolt ons 140 - 160 hp
turbo car with bolt ons 230 -400 hp

I did 372hp on the stock block with only bolt ons

tBoWzeR

thanks for the info. . . any more . . .
-tBoWzeR

Ryde _Or_Die

Well...it all depends what you want from the car. If you want something that can beat the average ricer an NA will work fine. If you want 14s or lower get a TII. But remember modding a TII is a much more sensitive process. You have to make sure you have the adequate fuel supplied for your mods(boost).

protlewski

You quoted the stock Hp on the Fc N/A not with bolt ons.

the 86-87 n/a had 146Hp stock and the 88-91 n/a had 162Hp stock. with these so called bolt-ons (i.e. new intake, exhaust, etc) you could bump the power up to alot more considering how restrictive both the exhaust and intake on the Fc is. so porting isn't the only way either, you could get carbon apex seals or just add a 50 shot of nitrous. well anyway those apex seals are smoother and they say ( i don't have any proof) that the less drag from the seals causes an increase in Hp and torque.

Ryde _Or_Die

Hes talking to the wheels. Stock NAs get about 130-150hp to the wheels depending on year and car. And bolt-ons on an NA don't give you as much gains in HP. You can get more than 160 to the wheels but not with the Basic Power Upgrades.

tBoWzeR

thanks,
but on a n/a FC with the boltons how much
horse would i be pushing? how much
would it take for a n/a Fc to have 300-325
rwhp?
thanks
tBoWzeR

Ryde _Or_Die

Whoa nelly, lol. 300rwhp from an NA? Prolly not going to happen NA since N2O makes it not NA anymore. 200rwhp on an NA is very very good. You would have to go with a very large BP or PP to get close to that much. If your looking for that much HP get a TII definitely.

tBoWzeR

k thanks
-tbowzer

relvinnian

Most N/As I've seen dyno 85-105 rwhp bone stock.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Not trying to get on your nerve, but since when a Halltech is a bolt on?. On any case a Hallteched NA with all mods WILL produce more than 200HP to the wheels.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

200HP on a NA?

If you were to BP or PP a NA, a stand alone computer is a MUST, a PP would be more like 300HP (probably more, RB claims 350hp on a 4port block using NA rotors, using crbs that is), a BP is "probably" around 250hp-275hp.

No Nitrous Oxide..........

Node

iTrader: (1)

The most you can get on an N/A w/o porting of the engine is around 200-210 at the flywheel. And that's with a loud open exhaust and a considerably stripped (lightened car).
Would run low 14's I think. Not sur ethough.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

By open ehxaust, do you mean Header, no cat, and catback?

tBoWzeR

thanks for the info u guys.

thanks,
tBoWzeR

wozzoom

Forget about RWHP for a minute...It's all about the money you want to spend. (NOTE: The numbers below are averages. Don't nit-pick) Lets examine some numbers...

NA Car (running) = $500-2500 bucks
Bolt on mods (header, silencer, mufflers, 6 port sleeves, intake, struts, sway bars, springs, AFC, etc...) = $2500+
Ported Rebuilt Engine = $2000

total = anywhere from $5000-7000. Done. RWHP Should be in the 170-180+ range. More if the engine is tuned and ported well. In the end, it will be fun to drive and very reliable.


Turbo car (running) = $2000-4500
Bolt on mods (down pipe, silencer, mufflers, intake kit, front mount intercooler, turbo upgrades, injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator, struts, sway bars, springs, AFC?, gauges, boost contorller, Haltech? etc...) = $7000 and up, uP, UP!
Ported Rebuilt Engine = $2500

total = anywhere from $11,000-"skys the limit!". You'd never be done b/c there is always something to try. RWHP Should be in the 250-400 range. In the end, it will be an animal to drive and *possibly* reliable.

Remember, this is before you add paint, rims, and any other body kit parts!!! So how much do you want to spend?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Well put Wozzom

protlewski

Unless you get a BP or a PP the N/A engine will last forever even with the mods and street porting.

The turbo car reliabilty is iffy. That is more dependant on how you build the engine up. but it is deffinatly alot less than a N/A ALOT less.

tBoWzeR

thanks again . .
tBoWzeR





01' Black WS6 M6
mods:
SLP cold air lid
SLP smooth bellow
K&N filter
BMR strut tower brace
BMR tie rod
BMR panhard rod
BMR lower control arms
Hotchkis springs
soon 2 come:
shorty headers, y-pipe
slp cat back
upgraded shox

peejay

Open exhaust means header. Nothing else.

It's fun at the dragstrip but you CANNOT drive that on the street, unless you are the only person in your town. It's loud and primarily it's noisy. By noisy I mean not only is it high volume but it's rather obnoxious as well.

Of course, some people LIKE the way it sounds... like King Kong's chainsaw on nitromethane.