The Hillclimb RX7 - a saga
10-11-12, 10:24 AM
#26
AWR makes some toe links too, but they require you to drill out the tapered hole... and they have the same issue you don't like. I've never heard of one failing though, and a lot of people run them... (me included) it's also on the same shear plane the stock ball joint is...
Toe Link Kit - Rear - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store
I also wouldn't mess with the mounting points too much. I measured the bump steer of the rear suspension with my awr links (other links may differ, but not much) and it was already amazing (less than .005" throughout the entire travel), so don't change any mounting points
awesome project though, I'll be following this thread.
Toe Link Kit - Rear - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store
I also wouldn't mess with the mounting points too much. I measured the bump steer of the rear suspension with my awr links (other links may differ, but not much) and it was already amazing (less than .005" throughout the entire travel), so don't change any mounting points
awesome project though, I'll be following this thread.
Flatout Motorsports (http://www.flatout-motorsports.com deals with AWR stuff so it must be good. Maybe they have some on hand so I can check them out - their shop isn't far from my place. I do know I want a set of those front strut housings.
While I'm logged on, anybody have experience with these guys: ProdBodies.com ?
Looking into my widebody options.
Car will continue coming apart once I regain the use of my jackstands. Right now they're being used as a string setup so I can throw a better alignment on my Miata for AutoX.
I've been doing some cutting:
10-11-12, 02:27 PM
#27
DATA AND MEASUREMENTS! Thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing if nobody is experiencing failures the design must be sound, or the lateral links don't experience as much abuse as I imagine. I know for sure I can piece together a setup for half the cost of the AWRs though.
Flatout Motorsports (Flatout Motorsports - Racing. Performance Parts. Mazda and Honda Specialists. Bellingham, MA. - All blog entries deals with AWR stuff so it must be good. Maybe they have some on hand so I can check them out - their shop isn't far from my place. I do know I want a set of those front strut housings.
Flatout Motorsports (Flatout Motorsports - Racing. Performance Parts. Mazda and Honda Specialists. Bellingham, MA. - All blog entries deals with AWR stuff so it must be good. Maybe they have some on hand so I can check them out - their shop isn't far from my place. I do know I want a set of those front strut housings.
Most of the mazdaspeed motorsports stuff is also just AWR also
10-13-12, 10:32 AM
#30
I bought one of those kits and just didn't use the control arm bushing.
The 3rd hub bushing on the hub is actually a spherical bearing, so you don't need to replace it.
Mazda RX7 Rear Lower Control Arm Kit, 1986-1992, by Drop Engineering
neither of them will sell you just the hub bushing... I tried
11-20-12, 08:45 PM
#31
I swear I haven't been slacking, I just keep finding ways to extend the racing season.
Took the Miata rallycross last weekend on my autocross coilovers raised up as high as they would go. HAD A BALL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shm...ature=youtu.be
Need to do some parts shopping for the FC as well as a little more cutting before she moves to the barn for the cage installation. Holiday spending gets in the way, but I should have a healthy bonus this year.
Took the Miata rallycross last weekend on my autocross coilovers raised up as high as they would go. HAD A BALL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shm...ature=youtu.be
Need to do some parts shopping for the FC as well as a little more cutting before she moves to the barn for the cage installation. Holiday spending gets in the way, but I should have a healthy bonus this year.
12-23-12, 03:27 PM
#41
Left stock: RacingBeat Race header: Custom Race header
While I was in there (dangerous words) I took the stuck 6th port actuators off and lubed them up. The sleeves were sticky too, but working them around a little seemed to free them up. Good thing, because I didn't want to pull off the intake manifold.
While I was in there (dangerous words) I took the stuck 6th port actuators off and lubed them up. The sleeves were sticky too, but working them around a little seemed to free them up. Good thing, because I didn't want to pull off the intake manifold.
01-07-13, 07:44 PM
#42
Alright, time to start spending money. First things first though, I needed safety gear to even be able to race this coming season:
Next up I'm ordering a set of 6th port sleeves from atkins: 84-91 Rx7 Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator...
And then I need to suck it up and order the rear lateral links from AWR to replace the one I bent in my little excursion.
Next up I'm ordering a set of 6th port sleeves from atkins: 84-91 Rx7 Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator...
And then I need to suck it up and order the rear lateral links from AWR to replace the one I bent in my little excursion.
01-07-13, 08:55 PM
#43
Alright, time to start spending money. First things first though, I needed safety gear to even be able to race this coming season:
Next up I'm ordering a set of 6th port sleeves from atkins: 84-91 Rx7 Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator...
And then I need to suck it up and order the rear lateral links from AWR to replace the one I bent in my little excursion.
Next up I'm ordering a set of 6th port sleeves from atkins: 84-91 Rx7 Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator...
And then I need to suck it up and order the rear lateral links from AWR to replace the one I bent in my little excursion.
you might be better off getting the battle version toe links. you don't have to drill out the taper. You can get them here:
J-AUTO - Bushings, Suspension, Performance Upgrades for Mazda RX-7s
01-09-13, 11:08 AM
#46
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,770
Received 2,562 Likes
on
1,822 Posts
you should be able to install without removing the subframe
01-21-13, 11:39 AM
#48
Been working to get my garage more organized before I get elbow deep in the car:
Gotta love Harbor Freight magnetic strips.
Anyway, here's what the car looks like now:
Got my welder hooked up and now it's time to start Welding in some small tubes to hold the body parts in place and then I start cutting out some major steel from the body.
Gotta love Harbor Freight magnetic strips.
Anyway, here's what the car looks like now:
Got my welder hooked up and now it's time to start Welding in some small tubes to hold the body parts in place and then I start cutting out some major steel from the body.
01-21-13, 11:41 AM
#49
Everything below that black line will basically be gone, as will the floor of the hatch area to make room for the 5 gallon fuel cell and radiator.
The goal is to be at 2,400 lbs this season and 2,200 for the 2013 season. Hillclimb rules basically let me do anything I want as classes are based on engine displacement.
The goal is to be at 2,400 lbs this season and 2,200 for the 2013 season. Hillclimb rules basically let me do anything I want as classes are based on engine displacement.
01-24-13, 03:47 PM
#50
L42 Motorsports
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Wenham MA
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very cool build!
I'm also working on an RX7 that I'll be using for NEHA hillclimb events. I picked up an 87 TII that was used as a drag car. It already has some good weight reduction and power adders, and shouldn't take much to get ready. Hope you're enjoying this weather... my project is on hold until it warms up a little.
Hopefully I will see you and the blue beast up in the hills some time soon.
Kurt S.
I'm also working on an RX7 that I'll be using for NEHA hillclimb events. I picked up an 87 TII that was used as a drag car. It already has some good weight reduction and power adders, and shouldn't take much to get ready. Hope you're enjoying this weather... my project is on hold until it warms up a little.
Hopefully I will see you and the blue beast up in the hills some time soon.
Kurt S.
